but then it wouldnt be 100kw Atw on the cheap. i personally hate the como engine but hey if its on the cheap :D

 

cheapest ~ commo v6

other options are many, depends on what you want

 

ca, sr, bp, 4a, 12a/13b, etc

built 2t can produce > 100kw atw naturally aspirated if you want period style

5k will struggle to do that without forced induction

i have a spare 5k here. my uncle who i live with is telling me to go with an sr20. how much would it cost to build a turbo 5k? plus tuning etc.

i have a spare 5k here. my uncle who i live with is telling me to go with an sr20. how much would it cost to build a turbo 5k? plus tuning etc.

 

Carby or EFI?

 

It really depends on how far you wanna go. I was originally running boost for around $400......and don't wanna know what I've spend now! :) Reckon I could have done the EFI conversion for half the cost it I didn't try and make everthing look good. I would have spent over $500 on speedflow fitting and hoses FFS, but they now make working on the car a absolute delight!! :(

yeah speedflow's good, got all speedflow fitting's for the turbo on my vl.

 

prob go with a j piped t25/t28 with a cooler on a blow through setup. what carby would be best suited? or at least work? pretty much just want it boosted :D later on like in a year or more i'll go with a 4agte or sr20det. but for now just wanna boost the 5k witha 5 speed in it :P

 

also how would this turbo go for sizing on a 5k? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/MonstA-T25-T28-400H...A1%7C240%3A1318

lol don't buy a turbo off ebay. You'll end up regretting it. Then again I suppose at least it has (or claims to have) a T25 flange so you'll be able to upgrade to the real deal once you nuke that one.

AS Ben said, Ebay turbo's are generally very cheap rip off's and don't perform as stated.

i've used a monsta turbo before on my vl and never had any problems with it. and that same turbo is now on my mates lj torana that's running a vl turbo (rb30et) engine in it. so i'm not worried about using a monsta turbo, plus the corolla is a daily for now. i'm just addicted to boost :P so wan't it boosted:p

 

so i'd need turbo, oil lines, j pipe, dump/down pipe, cooler and piping. does the carby need changing? and also how do those boxed carby setup's work? i don't understand that idea...

You have had a turbo car before, Why are you asking all these questions?

i don't understand when it comes to carby. and i still have the vl. and it's still turbo, but it's also efi. i know basically nothing about carby's. the exhaust and cooler part of it i know, but the fuel part i can't work out. and don't understand having the carby in a box. it confuses the hell outta me.

 

the vl was easy, pluged in the turbo ecu. swapped the injectors over to turbo ones, bolted on the turbo ran the oil and water lines, ran the cooler piping, mounted the cooler. hooked it up the throttle body. i just don't understand carby's

 

also, i'm running a 35/40 with a 1.06 rear on the vl. i'm not sure about what size turbo would work well with the 5k. considering they don't rev high and they only 1.5L or so. so i want something that'll have boost early.

Edited November 25, 200817 yr by hosedogg

I have a 4k which has been fully worked minus the block. with twin carbies and a home made cold air intake and it is putting out round 95 kw at the wheels I think..

 

I may be wrong

 

its around 190hp at the fly I have spent $600 at the engine shop..

 

It all depends on what you do :dance:

id like to see that dyno sheet!

 

95kw at wheels is around 120kw at fly which is about 160hp.

 

4k full race spec could see 100kw at the fly but would be very undriveable :dance:

Carby: works by venturi effect: vacuum (and movement of air?) from engine lowers the air pressure in front of the jets, which being subject to standard atmospheric pressure "push" fuel through them into the intake manifold and then into the engine. The problem with boosted engines is that the pressure running past the jets is greater than behind them, effectively pushing fuel the wrong way. Putting the whole carb in a box means that the air pressure balance is restored allowing the venturi effect, and fuel delivery. Boost means more air which means more fuel to maintain stoichometric (actually richer than stoich.) air fuel ratio, hence RRFPR, bigger jets etc. When I get some money, I am going to develop a fairly crude fuel enrichment system (EFI for boost only) that will work with any additional injector(s) on any engine (carb or efi). Kits should be less than $200, not including injectors.

Edited November 25, 200817 yr by machg

I'm not explaining carby turbo fuel system etc again. :P

Have a good search as I'm sure I've explained this several times on here.

Edit: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=17418

 

If you want early, strong boost get a T25G with a .48 rear housing. :dance:

 

Oh, and I'll re-phrase what Irokin and Trev are getting at - "Don't buy a turbo off Ebay that doesn't atleast have GARRETT stamped into the compressor cover". Those T25/28 hybrid turbos don't have the best repuation. :)

Edited November 25, 200817 yr by Taz_Rx

hey everyone. just wanting to know what's the cheapest way to go about getting 100kw atw in my ke36. currently has a 5k in it. just wanna know the cheapest way to get there reliably??? which engine would be the way to go etc.

 

would building the 5k do the job? or turbo/supercharge etc. or would it be cheaper to get there by fitting a 4age?

 

 

just alter the Air temp setting on the dyno... you'll get some amazing numbers!!! its cheap too

I have a 4k which has been fully worked minus the block. with twin carbies and a home made cold air intake and it is putting out round 95 kw at the wheels I think..

 

I may be wrong

 

its around 190hp at the fly I have spent $600 at the engine shop..

 

It all depends on what you do :dance:

 

Ha so in other words the head has been done, Most likely 95hp at the wheels.