Sportivo_65 Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 (edited) So, some of you may have noticed me rudely hijacking SoulSearchers thread, so I thought I should start my own... ;) I have some issues with my Sportivo which I'm looking for theorys on if anyone has any. Problem #1: Its choking horribly at high rpm and loses power. Thats the main problem that I want fixed as I wanted to get her on the track soon but can't until this is fixed. I had a Bosch BOV on it and the car would hold til about 5 and then start chocking and jerking. A friend of mine who Rally's a Evo 6 suggested it could be the crap spring in the BOV so we took it off and returned the cap over that outlet in the pipeing. The problem is still there but now its changed. If I'm driving along the highway for example and want to get around a slow vehicle etc, I drop it back to 3rd and stomp on it, the car just starts choking as soon as I let my foot off the clutch. I have to back right off and go to 4th before it settles down. Suggestions: Driver asking too much of the car (suggested by my brother the mechanic who obviously doesn't wanna fix it) Fuel feed problem (install a Bosch external fuel pump) Injectors / Plugs (check plugs and make sure they aren't white or black. Also check there aren't 'detination' marks on the plugs) Car running too much boost and when under higher rpm's its leaning out and choking (install boost gauge and check what boost its running and make sure its not over boosting - as this will cause heaps of issues) Map Sensor / Air flow meter Problem #2: Now also its started stalling randomly and then wont start again. Like when I left from work the other day. I started it and let it warm up for about 5 mins before I left the carpark, then up the road (at the busiest intersection it could be at) it decided to stall at a red light. Then when it wouldn't start, until after about 2mins, when I turned the key it turned over. Update: Today I was driving up the road to get some lunch, started the car in the carpark, let it run for a bit, drove off. Was driving along a road in 4th doing 60kms and the revs just dropped down to '0' and the engine and oil lights came on. I instantly knocked it out of gear and chucked the hazards on and pulled over to the side of the road (which was a mission with 17" x 7" mags and no power steering) and called my brother (who's my machanic). I started it again after about 3mins and it started fine and got me home and hasn't missed a beat. Suggestions: The spark plugs (13BT_KE20 ) Ignition Module Crank angle sensor Items I know which need attending: Intank fuel filter to be changed Throtle body butterfly to be cleaned The car ha had oil changed every 5,000 and the filter every 10,000 so its been regulary serviced. So yeah, does anyone strongly agree or disagree with whats been suggested above? Like where the hell do I start... Its one huge big puzzle! And could the two problems be related?? Thanks stacks - in advance!! :( Edited January 20, 2009 by Sportivo_65 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corolla_bitten Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 whats the temperature gauge saying, is it normal? you said it wouldnt start again after a couple of minutes, is it still cranking over and just not firing? it could also be the electronic ignition/coils. I'm not a mechanic, actually electrician, i have found this problem before on machinary and it has been the ignition, when it gets hot it breaks down and wont deliver enough voltage for the plugs. Just a suggestion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sportivo_65 Posted January 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 Temp is normal, all the time. Normally, under general driving the car runs fine. Its not chewing fuel or missing or doing anything else unusual. Its cranking over yeah, just not firing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kryton brown Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 whats the temperature gauge saying, is it normal? you said it wouldnt start again after a couple of minutes, is it still cranking over and just not firing? it could also be the electronic ignition/coils. I'm not a mechanic, actually electrician, i have found this problem before on machinary and it has been the ignition, when it gets hot it breaks down and wont deliver enough voltage for the plugs. Just a suggestion. Hi, I'm an auto electrician also. Genereally when you see these symptoms it is an ignition problem, and also heat related, which is why it will start after a cooling down period. I'm guessing it is either an ignitor or coil problem. probably the easiest way to test the theory is to fit a second hand distributor as all the ignition gear is in there. If it was just plug leads or plugs you wouldn't expect to see the tacho drop like you said. Although i have seen a bad earth do that too. check all your engine earths and battery terminals as it's the simplest thing to start with. hope this helps.. ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sportivo_65 Posted January 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 (edited) When I said the tacho's 'dropped' I meant like when you turn the car off, the tacho just was like 'bang' and it was down. Like if didn't go down slowly and then stall... If it was a bad earth or the battery terminals wouldn't it be stalling or playing up much more regularly? NB: It has been idling all over the place lately too. I say all over the place, I mean it always used to idle at about 900-1000, more lately its been idling at about 750 and fluctuates up to about 900 if I've got the air con on. But thanks heaps, keep the ideas coming, cause this one has us stumped. I'll keep you updated with what happens too! Edited January 20, 2009 by Sportivo_65 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teddy Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 I think this is one for the "Take vehicle to a Toyota Dealership" Quite a few variables to this one, and i would say that there are a hole heap more that even you do not know about. Sorry, i just don't think theres a quick fix for this intermintant unknown problem(s). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 you could pull a spark plug out as soon as it stalls to make sure its not overly rich. have you cleaned the air flow meter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRD ke70 Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 electrical for sure, ignition module and coil as kryton brown has said, doesn't sound like fuel. needs to go on an oscilloscope to be sure. the choking you mentioned, sounds like the coil is breaking down. A good auto sparky should be able to sort it quickly. whats your location? Know of a really good sparky in brisbane's northside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sportivo_65 Posted January 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 (edited) I think this is one for the "Take vehicle to a Toyota Dealership" Quite a few variables to this one, and i would say that there are a hole heap more that even you do not know about. Sorry, i just don't think theres a quick fix for this intermintant unknown problem(s). "Cost twice as much to fix the problem" - not that I'm wanting to do it cheap, but if the money doesn't have to be spent why spend it? At this stage we're just trying to isolate where the problem could be to try some minor tests at home to save taking it to a Toyota Dealer... Thats an absolute last resort I hope. have you cleaned the air flow meter? They run a MAP sensor... electrical for sure, ignition module and coil as kryton brown has said, doesn't sound like fuel.needs to go on an oscilloscope to be sure. the choking you mentioned, sounds like the coil is breaking down. A good auto sparky should be able to sort it quickly. whats your location? Know of a really good sparky in brisbane's northside. Yeah, that seems to be the general idea... I'm in the Redlands... But if my brother takes the car to work to run tests it'll be at Enoggera so I'll pm you for their details in case my bro wants to try them :( Thanks - I just want my baby fixed ;) Edited January 20, 2009 by Sportivo_65 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teddy Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 lol. eggs for eggs, apples for apples.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trev Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 I think this is one for the "Take vehicle to a Toyota Dealership" Quite a few variables to this one, and i would say that there are a hole heap more that even you do not know about. Sorry, i just don't think theres a quick fix for this intermintant unknown problem(s). Why do you think i havent even bothered saying anything, It could be this or it could be that and the fact that there isnt any mention of a dignostic test. Sportivo_65 take it somewhere so someone can have a good look at it, The sportivo turbo's arent an easy system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sportivo_65 Posted January 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 Why do you think i havent even bothered saying anything, It could be this or it could be that and the fact that there isnt any mention of a dignostic test. Sportivo_65 take it somewhere so someone can have a good look at it, The sportivo turbo's arent an easy system. I do realise all of the above, 'Trev' but thanks for pointing that out... However, being 'rollaclub' and being a forum where people are invited/entitled to post technical/mechanical questions for open discussion with other members who are of more knowledge, I thought I'd be able to post it up, put it out there see what people thought and get a hand to fix my car. Of course I realise its not an easy system. Its not like I'm asking to change a headlight, or 'what mod should I do next'... I figured it was a justified question. :( Good advise though, I should take it somewhere so someone can have a good look at it, I never thought of that... ;) Thank you to those who offered constructive comments, I appreciate your thoughts and time ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trev Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 I wasnt being rude, I'm just saying that its hard to diagnose a system at times without looking at the car or without having any fault codes to go by, If a car (toyota) comes into work running like crap the 1st thing i do is a dignostic test, Just today i had an SW20 3sgte mr2 that wasnt running the best but some bright spark thought they would take the check engine light out cause it annoyed them ;) I spent the extra 10 mins to replace the bulb and did the test. Just get us some more info to look at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sportivo_65 Posted January 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 (edited) I wasnt being rude, I'm just saying that its hard to diagnose a system at times without looking at the car or without having any fault codes to go by, If a car (toyota) comes into work running like crap the 1st thing i do is a dignostic test, Just today i had an SW20 3sgte mr2 that wasnt running the best but some bright spark thought they would take the check engine light out cause it annoyed them ;) I spent the extra 10 mins to replace the bulb and did the test. Just get us some more info to look at. No worries, I can understand your frustration! As I mentioned, my brother is a/and my mechanic and he will be looking at the car, he just hasn't had a change with getting back to work and finishing customers cars etc. He didn't think plugging into the computer would help any. He seemed to think that if an error code was logged, that the engine light would come on. In this case my engine light isn't on, which he suspects would mean no codes have been logged. Do you agree? Does the engine light ALWAYS come on no matter what code has been logged?? Obviously there's only one way to find out, plug in and see... But yeah, he's not an auto sparky, he's a mechanic. The other thing I wanted to know was (after browsing through the FAQ section of the site), for my model how will I know what codes mean what?? Where would I get a list of these? Just contact Toyota? Cause I'm assuming there would be different codes for my model compared to the Conquest/Levin models... Edited January 20, 2009 by Sportivo_65 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRD ke70 Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 the engine check light doesn't always come on, even if it logs a code. what could be a good idea for you, would be to get a workshop manual for your car,preferably a genuine Toyota one as they have better more accurate info. most codes for Toyota are generic, as from 96 (i think) all car manufacturers had to meet a standard for diagnostics, know as OBD 2. Google Toyota OBD codes and you should get a few pages with them on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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