I would say you probably need to adjust your float level..

You've blocked the overflow of the carby and are pressurising the bowl and it's force feeding fuel into the motor. Plug that second "intake" onto the return line of the car.

 

ok, i just did this exact thing to my ke70.

problem is when i turn the key to start the car......it pisses (literally gushes) fuel out of one of the spout things at the very top of the carby (secondary side).

The nikki i used was slightly different being that it had two hoses going in where the fuel line connects, so i blocked one.

kryton brown was right.......the needle fell out.

 

where the hell is the idle screw on this carby?? it idles so damn high right now!

but all in all if there is not much power gain (not that 4ks have much) they don't use much more or less fuel, so there is no real diffenece other than auto choke thats apparently not reliable. So my point is why...

"So my point is why..."

 

why not? its fun as buggery, cheap and easy

why not? its fun as buggery, cheap and easy

 

yes i agree fun easy yes indeed cheap but if there is no benifit then its still alot cheaper and easier if i don't need to do it :) :)

youll notice more difference one you add a cam and extractors. the nikki is bigger as it comes off a 1.6L.

so add some other performance bits and it will work well. and easy to tune.

cheers thanks mate so with a good small scale combo it will be much better thanks

Yeah well being off a bigger motor it makes sence it can make more power.

 

I had a gemini with a mild cam and extractors. and still used the stock carby. so i can't see why it wont make a decent difference to a K motor with same mods.. maybe Higher compression, some porting. it would really open up

Mhmm.. Putting a huge carby on a stock motor isn't much help at all. Sometimes it can be worse!

Small mods like cam, exhaust, headwork etc. if done first make doing a carby upgrade much more worthwhile!

hey Q i have a nikki carb off a gemini n i can't seem to tune it right like i can get it to ideal right but when i take it for a drive down the road i get in to 2nd n go up to about 4000rpm then the car just dies on me then picks back up later. ive tried leaning it off but then the car wont ideal n take it for a drive n it still does the samething i've also tryed riching it up n it does the something as befor confusing :D

Shame_inc all you are doing by playing with the mixture screw is altering the idle mixture. The mixture screw doesn't affect how lean/rich the carb runs once you are off the idle circuit.

 

Sounds to me like the secondary butterfly isn't opening. The gemi carbs have a vacuum secondary from memory. I'd be looking at that.

When I jetted my Nikki I ended up with Mazda 323 primary and Mazda 626 secondary jets respectively. Most people who have a nikki tuned properly on a K motor get 450km+ out of a tank. You can put a screw in the vaccum secondary actuator to make it come on earlier, takes a bit of experimentation to get nice though. I made heaps more power like that, but it was using over 12L/100. I street drove a 88/42 cam with a nikki and extractors for 2 years, I didn't have a choice but to rev to 5 grand minimum each gear, drank an average of 10L/100 with the secondary running on vacuum.

Shame_inc all you are doing by playing with the mixture screw is altering the idle mixture. The mixture screw doesn't affect how lean/rich the carb runs once you are off the idle circuit.

 

Sounds to me like the secondary butterfly isn't opening. The gemi carbs have a vacuum secondary from memory. I'd be looking at that.

o ok i get it so u think the second butterfly isnt opening hmm so how would i test that ?

Sorry can't help you much there. I don't have any gemini carbs to be able to help you.

 

I did find this with a couple of minutes of googling, might be of use

 

Search gemini forums.

Edited July 29, 200917 yr by Felix