A few people have done the T series rear end with leaf springs :rolls:

 

I had a T series on my Sprinter with 180rwkw. It lasted, whined lots, but lasted. If I drove it very hard all day every day though I have a feeling it wouldn't have lasted.

 

It depends on your driving style, etc. If you want to drive hard all the time a T series won't cut it :P

A few people have done the T series rear end with leaf springs :rolls:

 

I had a T series on my Sprinter with 180rwkw. It lasted, whined lots, but lasted. If I drove it very hard all day every day though I have a feeling it wouldn't have lasted.

 

It depends on your driving style, etc. If you want to drive hard all the time a T series won't cut it :P

Yeah, I've got a T series, but I want to save that for another car. Apparently RN41 Hilux diffs should bolt in, just need stud pattern re-drilling. Also an early Tarago diff should fit, but wouldn't be as strong (correct stud pattern though) Also MX13 and MX23 diffs will fit with spring mounts welded, but I doubt I'll find one.

Oh shit....... My bad......

Oh shit....... My bad......

? About the leafs ? don't sweat it.

Edited August 13, 200917 yr by machg

I reckon an F series from an RT 104 Corona would be the best. Looks like it would be the best fit, as it is the right stud pattern and is leaf sprung, and I think is close enough width wise. Anyone?

Unbelievable, I have found an as yet unknown diff at a local wreckers. I can't believe it, its the right stud pattern, as close to the same width as the shit-warner that its not going to matter, even then input coupling holes are the same. Its even has leaf spring mounts. The spring mounts are about 20mm too wide, but I think I can legitimately, semi-bodgy the mounts quite easily. I am picking it up next payday, will post picks then. Oh yeah, the nose of the diff is a bit longer, but I think the slip joint will cover that. I suspect its either a T series or F series.

Edited August 19, 200917 yr by machg

keen to hear how this diff goes, I'm hopefully piking up a ke70 slanty low roof wagz this weekend too i shall make a build thread and il replace diff so if you could get a part number or sumthing it would be great.

keen to hear how this diff goes, I'm hopefully piking up a ke70 slanty low roof wagz this weekend too i shall make a build thread and il replace diff so if you could get a part number or sumthing it would be great.

No worries, once I have actually worked out what it is, I'll post here and let everyone know.

cheers mate this thread has been a good read and ive learnt a fair bit too

I am fairly sure the new diff is an F series out of an early Corona of some sort. It takes Corona brake drums, and yes; it does bolt directly into an AE71 wagon with no mods apart from a little bit of sidways pressure on the springs (mounts are 15mm further from centre, each side. Also flipped a leaf (thanks kewagon for the detailed how to) and it sits nice and low now. Just have to hook up brake line and handbrake cable and it should be go again. Pics later.

Looking good :jamie: was wondering if you could direct me to / share the info on flipping leafs? cheers

Looking good :worship: was wondering if you could direct me to / share the info on flipping leafs? cheers

Some results of flipping leaves. I am not real happy, the driver's side is exactly as I want it height wise, the passenger's side is much lower.

 

Flipping leaves, first cavets/warnings, 1/. I don't think its legal to do this 2/. It is potentially dangerous while doing this and will affect the handling of your car once performed. I don't advise doing this, and won't be held responsible if anyone should foolishly decide to follow these instructions.

 

Basically, you remove the leaves from the car. You pull the leaf pack apart; they're secured by a nut and bolt in the middle and a U (for want of a better description) shaped clip at either end. Just pry the clips apart with a screwdriver. I would do one at a time, so you can use the un-dismantled pack as a guide for re-assembly. All you do is grab one of the small leaves and flip it over, then re-assemble the pack. You will need a vice to compress the pack when re-assembling, and this is dangerous. Your pack should look like this (()( {on its side, twist your screen anti-clockwise 90 degrees} If you want lower, flip 2 leaves. You can also remove completely and add leaves while the pack is apart. Hope this doesn't help, LOL.

Finally, "slab" is going well. I pulled out the spring on the passenger side and re-flipped the spring. Ride height is now within a centimetre side to side, I can live with that. She was mis-firing for a while, but seems to be firing on all 4 consistently now. Unfortunately I am pretty much unemployed ATM, so won't be able to spend any more $$$ for a while. I am going to get a mechanic mate of mine to tune it using his wideband AFR (once he locates a hand controller thingy). When he checked before mixtures were very rich under boost, but O.K. at cruise. Anyway here's the vids (crap quality)

Soooooo much better looking and better handling:

Getting "on-road" tuned on Monday, hopefully will go even better, and use much less fuel (6km per litre :P)

Also clutch was slipping, but I think it may just be missing a return spring on the clutch pedal, because it seems to be OK if given a hit in the one gear (without gear changes).

Looking heaps better now. :(

 

 

:jamie: is damn right with the fuel consumption!!! Is that on PULP or BPU?