anastasios Posted November 25, 2009 Author Report Posted November 25, 2009 Maybe I will give it a squeeze with some pliers just to be safe Quote
anastasios Posted November 25, 2009 Author Report Posted November 25, 2009 Ok should I grease inside the shifter ball? Or does oil go into this from the GB? Quote
Taz_Rx Posted November 25, 2009 Report Posted November 25, 2009 No oil up there, so yeah a bit of grease wouldn't hurt. Quote
anastasios Posted November 25, 2009 Author Report Posted November 25, 2009 Ok so its all pretty much together now, when I go to start it, it backfires out of the carb and I can't seem to work out the problem, in what order do the leads go? is it 1,2,3,4 in a clockwise direction? It gets fuel but after a while it spurts out of the top of the carb from a small hole, i guess this is because my timing is wrong and it is not burning the excess fuel? Quote
anastasios Posted November 25, 2009 Author Report Posted November 25, 2009 Hm I really can't seem to figure it out, how do I know if piston 1 is on its compression stroke? Quote
Felix Posted November 25, 2009 Report Posted November 25, 2009 (edited) take the rocker cover off. When no1 is at TDC at the end of the compression stroke the valves for no4 will be on the rock (ie. exhaust closing, inlet opening). Edited November 25, 2009 by Felix Quote
anastasios Posted November 25, 2009 Author Report Posted November 25, 2009 Ok timing is all sweet now, the engine sounds as if it is about to start but doesn't I think the carb might need to be modified to suit the 5k? It ran well on the 4K. Would Start you bastard work better than pouring petrol down it? Quote
altezzaclub Posted November 25, 2009 Report Posted November 25, 2009 Carb will start and run fine on either engine, the difference would be at the top end I expect. How many degrees advance have you set it on?? Quote
anastasios Posted November 25, 2009 Author Report Posted November 25, 2009 I am not sure how to set advance, I do that by turning the dizzy? The pulley does not have any notch in it. I set it to TDC by looking at the valve movement, and then have the rotor button pointing towards the first piston and then turning the dizzy till it lines up with the 1st lead. Quote
philbey Posted November 26, 2009 Report Posted November 26, 2009 haha, didn't I already post the "on the rock" bit in this thread? 17 pages ago I suppose.... :wink: You using a standard pulley? It should have a notch, maybe on the back edge. Quote
anastasios Posted November 26, 2009 Author Report Posted November 26, 2009 (edited) I just spoke to the guys who fixed my carby the last time, and they said if the car doesnt start when you pour petrol down the carby then its not the carbs problem. Its either ignition timing or valve timing. And seeing as my ignition timing is right, i guess its the valve timing? Edited November 26, 2009 by anastasios Quote
anastasios Posted November 26, 2009 Author Report Posted November 26, 2009 (edited) Ok here are some pics of my pulley, there are no visible notches on it on either side, which is really strange. If my valve train shows TDC, do I then mark it on the pulley? Also what is this on the rock mean, does it mean that both 4th valves are closed? Edited November 26, 2009 by anastasios Quote
Felix Posted November 26, 2009 Report Posted November 26, 2009 the valves for no4 will be on the rock (ie. exhaust closing, inlet opening). Quote
anastasios Posted November 26, 2009 Author Report Posted November 26, 2009 Ok so do I now make a mark on the pulley at zero? Quote
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