December 3, 200916 yr comment_395197 Wrap the headers with fibreglass tape- get the heat down the pipe and out the back sooner. They will slowly crisp any plastic or rubber insulation when you stop after a good thrash as they release a lot of heat into the engine compartment then. I'm going to do mine. Report
December 3, 200916 yr comment_395202 Just cut that top bit off the engine mount (L shaped bit) instead of modding your extractors. Did you bolt the manifolds to the head before bolting the head to the blockl? Report
December 3, 200916 yr Author comment_395211 Nope, head first and then manifolds Yea I was thinking of cutting the metal part of the mount, seems like the easiest way to go atm Report
December 4, 200916 yr Author comment_395403 Ok so I got the solenoid repaired on my starter motor, and I went to crank over the engine and the starter motor kept going even when I turned the key off, I had to take off the neg terminal. Report
December 4, 200916 yr comment_395406 The main power terminal is earthing on the body of the starter motor. :D Report
December 5, 200916 yr comment_395633 pffft you obviously haven't done it enough times if you still reckon it's hard! Report
December 18, 200916 yr Author comment_399155 Ok so I am back at square one pretty much, engine is out of the car, head is at the machine shop, and I am about to take the pistons out to be machined, reason is that it blew another headgasket, so the engineer has looked at the engine, measured what he needed and will be recalculating the comp ratio. Report
December 18, 200916 yr comment_399158 How did it run before it blew this headgasket?? Did you get to drive it down the road?? Report
December 18, 200916 yr Author comment_399216 yep i drove it for about a day and a half until i noticed it started to overheat, i think it is also due to the detonation, I havent had it properly timed yet. Edited December 18, 200916 yr by anastasios Report
December 18, 200916 yr comment_399222 I clean all head bolts up and clean all threads out and then liberally coat thread and under head (normally whole head) in engine oil prior to assembly..... good idea to make sure all bolts go in all the way before fitting cylinder head. I did see a head gasket failure like that once but between 3 and 4 and it worked out to be the head bolts (torque to yield) were stretched and bottoming out in the cylinder block before the right tension was applied to the head/gasket..... Robert. Report
December 18, 200916 yr comment_399224 I've learnt on here ask for a quick fix, get a complicated answer, and about ten of them. I'm not dissing it, and I appreciate the help and idea's, but man... it can turn into a total engine rebuild ha ha! Which may not be a bad thing. *Love vibes to all who help* Report
December 18, 200916 yr Author comment_399226 Back on page 18 I checked for bottoming bolts, I did clean all the head bolts and coated them in engine oil. Report
December 19, 200916 yr comment_399496 Damn thats some bad luck. I replaced my first ever headgasket about 6 weeks ago. and car is still going strong. Quick question, should i recheck the torque of the head bolts? ive done about 500kays since head was skimmed and gasket done. Report
December 20, 200916 yr comment_399521 Ok so I got the solenoid repaired on my starter motor, and I went to crank over the engine and the starter motor kept going even when I turned the key off, I had to take off the neg terminal. i had the same thing happend to my 4k starter, turned out the 2 bolts holding the solenoid in rattled them selfs out therefor holding the starter on with the key out, the tech of 35 years at work said his seen truck blocks crack from oil in the headbolt threads (mind you this is torque of 650nm) falken ke30 - wouldnt hurt would it? Edited December 20, 200916 yr by Evan G Report
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