Yeah a fair bit of stop start driving. Lots of short trips and red lights along the way. But even still I though 4ks were supposed to get well over 10kms per 1L. Ah well atleast it's not as bad as Slo's ute :cool:

I used to be able to do 300km a week and only use around 1/2 tank in the SLO-030. Works out to around 7-8L/ 100km. Also works out to around 12km/ Litre.

 

And that was sitting in morning and afternoon traffic on south rd 5 days a week.

Edited November 10, 200916 yr by SLO-030

Hey. I've been working on the car a bit and cruising in it too. Today I changed the diff assembly over...(see pic \/ \/ \/) It came out of my Ke55 and was quieter, had less ks on it, has sway bar and brakes seemed to better in the ke55, so yeah, I had it sitting there so I painted it up and got a new brake hose, cleaned it. etc. etc. and now finally have put it in.. The pic shows just before I started. No after pics sorry.

 

 

It all went pretty smoothly apart from a couple of things eg. couldn't put the sway bar in because there wasn't any mounts on the car and didn't want to make any, so I left that out for now..

 

Also found the shocks seem to have been shortened. This is them up against stock rears out of ke55 which I was going to put in but decided to stick with the short ones because they must be there for a reason??

:wink:

 

Anyway, the main thing I haven't figured out yet is the brakes. I bled them and everything all hooked up properly(I think) but they aren't working. Like not at all... ? Hand brake is fine.. but foot brake not. And it's still working at the front so, something I just did, MadE iT broKedeD :wink: LOL

 

Anyone got any tips or had the same problem? HELP

 

Cheers

 

Chris

Hey. I've been working on the car a bit and cruising in it too. Today I changed the diff assembly over...(see pic \/ \/ \/) It came out of my Ke55 and was quieter, had less ks on it, has sway bar and brakes seemed to better in the ke55, so yeah, I had it sitting there so I painted it up and got a new brake hose, cleaned it. etc. etc. and now finally have put it in.. The pic shows just before I started. No after pics sorry.

 

 

It all went pretty smoothly apart from a couple of things eg. couldn't put the sway bar in because there wasn't any mounts on the car and didn't want to make any, so I left that out for now..

 

Also found the shocks seem to have been shortened. This is them up against stock rears out of ke55 which I was going to put in but decided to stick with the short ones because they must be there for a reason??

:wink:

 

Anyway, the main thing I haven't figured out yet is the brakes. I bled them and everything all hooked up properly(I think) but they aren't working. Like not at all... ? Hand brake is fine.. but foot brake not. And it's still working at the front so, something I just did, MadE iT broKedeD :wink: LOL

 

Anyone got any tips or had the same problem? HELP

 

Cheers

 

Chris

 

Bleed em again >| Took me a few goes in the 30 but in the end it all workd out :hmm:

I tried bleeding them again and still same result. I have bled them 3 times now.. When bleeding brakes how much is supposed to come out? I'm not getting much. Also makes a splattery noise when it comes out. Almost sounds like air is being pushed through the tube rather than brake fluid. But I don't know because I can't see.

 

Something else is wrong I think because it's acting strangley, like when it's idling and I press the brake half way it does this vibration on the pedal and if I pump the pedal the engine splutters and stalls. \

 

Maybe the master cylinder is stuffed?

 

 

I got no idea... and I'm over it. Will try something else tomorrow...

Edited November 25, 200916 yr by Oh-KE

....Almost sounds like air is being pushed through the tube rather than brake fluid. But I don't know because I can't see.

 

You need to keep bleeding them until this air noise stops. Might be work making yourself a "brake bong". Get an old 600ml drink bottle and 30cm or so of vacuum line (that will fit over the bleed nipple. Pore 50ml or so of brake fluid into the bottle (old fluid is fine) so that the vacuum line is under the level of fluid. Now bleed the brakes again with the bong attached to the bleed nipple. If air is coming out you'll see bubbles coming up through the fluid. Keep bleeding until the bubbles stop.

 

Using a brake bong like this you can actually bleed brakes by yourself!! Fill the bottle with some new fluid and attach to the the LOSSENED bleed nipple. Then start pumping the pedal - when you pump it it wall push air/fluid out as per normal, then when you release the pedal fluid will be sucked back into the caliper from the bottle..... as long as the end of the vacuum line is under the fluid. :wink:

Something else is wrong I think because it's acting strangley, like when it's idling and I press the brake half way it does this vibration on the pedal and if I pump the pedal the engine splutters and stalls. \

 

Oh as for this problem, sounds like a BOOSTER problem. Make sure your check (one-way) valve is working properly and check the hose clamps on the booster vacuum line - mainly the one on the booster itself. :wink:

 

It's most likely effecting the engine at idle because there is a small vacuum leak somewhere.

Hi, first wagon shocks are shorter than a sedan, to bleed the brakes your master cyl might be getting tired, so when you push fluid out then release quickly it pulls air around the rubbers in the master cyl rather than fluid from the cylinder, i never pump the pedal when bleeding and never had any dramas, just fill it to max then open all bleeders if you have only done the rears only open them, wait untill fluid starts running and keep it topped up, when all bubbles stop close the lowest bleeder first then the next, should work fine

Hi, first wagon shocks are shorter than a sedan

 

 

:wink: Wonder if that means you can use wagon shocks as a short stroke version in sedans!?

:wink: Wonder if that means you can use wagon shocks as a short stroke version in sedans!?

definately yes and late barina are another 1in shorter again, you can't use sedan into wagon because they will run out of travel before it hits bump stops

Hey I got the brakes working, and better than before aswell. I used the brake bong and it was great! Test drove it just now and noticed a slight improvement in the brakes compared to the last set and also COMPLETE SILENCE. No wheel bearing noise, No brake squeak, Nothing! I great relief I have to say....

 

Thanks very much for the hints guys. You saved me a lot of time, mucking around and probably money. I <3 Rollaclub

 

Untill next time...

 

Cheers

 

Chris

definately yes and late barina are another 1in shorter again, you can't use sedan into wagon because they will run out of travel before it hits bump stops

 

Details Details :wink:

A bit of action today not much on the wagon but definately related. My ke55 write off/ parts car is now gone. After being stripped of all it's worth including 5 speed 4k combo with 150k on it (soon to be in the wagon). Lots of other stuff was taken off it and also used it as a bin for a while.. :yes: anyway it will be sadly missed as it was my daily cruiser for ages and now it's gone to get crushed. Here's a few pics of the mayhem of actually getting the car out of garage./. on a skateboard and bricks :jamie: :sob: :yes: :sob: :y: Goodbye orange car

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So anyway, back to the wagon... heres a pic of the replacement diff assembly installed along with my leaf packs, totally need new shocks now haha, once you start, you gotta finish :yes: also planning on a new exhaust system because this one is leaking in several places :(

 

 

 

Still keen to put the sway bar in from the ke55 but there isn't any where to put them like in this pic of the ke55

 

The wagon doesn't have those holes there on the rails so should I just not bother or is there any other way I could get it to work? Maybe weld it or something..

 

Also a question about the front struts/shocks is there any model that have short stroke inserts or something that would be suitable for using in my 38? I know it has been covered here before but It still confuses me as to what you need to do. Any help or opinions would be good, espacially if you have done something similar before.

 

Cheers

 

:y:

I'm planning on getting a bolt on swaybar for my hardtop. Not too sure how it goes to fixing to the body. Might be worth checking your local Pedders and just asking?

You can use the rear shocks from an AW11 MR2...... and Koni makes adjustables for those! :jamie:

As the body of the shock is also shorter you need to pack out the strut tube a bit with some washers.