Jaydnisevil Posted June 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 (edited) good work interesting to see your power figures once finised.. those coolant lines don't look like they'll flow they look kinked in the pictures. It kinked a little, but that's only because my pipe-bender didnt have a 10mm wheel. It just looks that way because I attempted to flatten them out a little :) It just looks funkier than it actually is :P I assure you they flow just fine, I had the outlet going into a container when I did the first test. Has more than enough coming through :) I will hopefully but the ARF gauge this week sometime, and be able to see whats happening in terms of fuel. The radiator is out for repair at the moment, but I have fixed the carby-turbo pipe :) Ohhh and mounted the choke cable today as well :) Edited June 14, 2011 by Jaydnisevil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaydnisevil Posted June 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 (edited) Throttle and choke cable are done. I couldn't do it the way I wanted (down along the manifold) but the heat would cause problems. We welded together a sterdy bracket and the its all hooked up (As you may have guessed given I drove the car last week :P) My new wide-band gauge arrived today, and its the gauge itself is now installed :) Sensor test with brake cleaner in a rag My oil issue is being addressed this weekend. Spoke to somebody who has done many draw through setup, and what he did was reduce the oil pressure. He has tapped and installed a grubscrew in the fitting for me, and is drilling a small hole out today. I wont be running the car again (with the O2 installed) until this has been addressed. I am not about to ruin the oxy by smothering it in oil. In my search for carbon seals, it turns out that I can upgrade to a CT12 with no alterations :) I don't think It will happen, but its good to know. I wouldn't waste my time modifying for a different turbs, ill just try and start saving for a Windsor or rover V8 :) LS1 would be sweet, but will be a tighter fit than its 60degree alternatives :) Umm I re-braised the inlet pipe (correctly this time) If you compare to older photos, you can see that this time it has bonded to both plates. But I as still going to make a bracket from the turbo to the carby to reduce any vibration. Edited June 17, 2011 by Jaydnisevil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted June 17, 2011 Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 Nice- You'll need that choke on an SU. The mixture readings will be interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaydnisevil Posted June 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 Nice- You'll need that choke on an SU. The mixture readings will be interesting. Absolutely, it cold starts like a dream with the choke :) can't wait :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 Ct12 is smaller..... And frankly too small for a 4k! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaydnisevil Posted June 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 (edited) Ct12 is smaller..... And frankly too small for a 4k! According to who? CT12 left CT9 Right http://img374.imageshack.us/img374/7229/img4887a2cj.jpg http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/9498/img4842a3pl.jpg Edited June 18, 2011 by Jaydnisevil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 My god.... Are ct9's really that small!! I always assumed coming off a 1.3 they must be at least a little bigger than those pissy little 12's. Is that a 300zx t25? That's getting better in size. Once you realise what a k can do with a decent sized turbo you'd agree a ct12 is too small, and definately a ct9 too. I have had a ct12 on a 4k before btw ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaydnisevil Posted June 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 My god.... Are ct9's really that small!! I always assumed coming off a 1.3 they must be at least a little bigger than those pissy little 12's. Is that a 300zx t25? That's getting better in size. Once you realise what a k can do with a decent sized turbo you'd agree a ct12 is too small, and definately a ct9 too. I have had a ct12 on a 4k before btw ;) Mate give me a break, its a correctly sized turbo for that engine capacity. I can't run an intercooler so I wanted something that will compress the air efficiently; itl do just fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t18drifts Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 great build bro :happy: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 Mate I'm not trying to criticize you.... I was trying to offer some helpful info.... from person experience - as a lot of what is offer here is here-say or "....my mate said...". Yes it'll make boost.... but in the top end it really won't go much better than a well sorted NA package with a set of twin sideys! :no2: ..... because the turbo is too small and will restrict top end flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninja-philbo Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 t04z dooeeett Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaydnisevil Posted June 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 (edited) Mate I'm not trying to criticize you.... I was trying to offer some helpful info.... from person experience - as a lot of what is offer here is here-say or "....my mate said...". Yes it'll make boost.... but in the top end it really won't go much better than a well sorted NA package with a set of twin sideys! :no2: ..... because the turbo is too small and will restrict top end flow. Ok well then I appreciate your input, but what you think I can do about it? Its installed an running fine, I am not going to spend time and money to replace it without good reason. You say its restrictive, and yet the starlets didn't have a problem with top end.. in fact my mate who owns one said that when the fun began. Iv posted dyno graphs at varying PSI's a page or so back, and they don't taper off much at all.. If it flows enough for a higher revving modern DOHC engine, it fine for my shitty old, low revving, 2 valve engine :) (Haha well actually I don't have a tacho, so I can't tell :P I am assuming its no higher than 6000-7000rpm that the GT's are capable of.) Yes there are bigger and better turbo's out there that will work, but I aint changing it without a good reason. Especially if I don't plan to keep this motor for a long period. Anywho I found a way to stop oil being sucked in through the compressor seals :) Well two actually! In case I have not mentioned it, if I let the car idle (Hot) for say a minute, when I revved it up I would have lots of lovley smoke come out the 'exhaust' :P After looking at carbon seals and deeming having them retroffited far too expensive, spent most of last night devising a plan of attack. What I did today (as to not wake up the neighbour last night :P) was hook the vacuum cleaner up to my rocker cover :P The theory was that if I could create a low pressure in the turbo housing (via the crankcase/sump) equal or greater than manifold vacuum, there would be no reason for it to be drawn in the intake; it would simple follow the path of least resistance. Well it worked :) 4 minutes at idle, and not a smidgen of smoke when it revved up. The two ways to fix this 1: Get an air pump and place the crankcase under vacuum, like as tested with the vacuum cleaner.. Would work, id rather have this as plan B. Upon thinking of appropriate pumps to do this job, I remembered diesels have vacuum pumps for the brake booster etc.. *Lightbulb* We had an alternator from a diesel truck in the shed, with the pump on the back :) Found the alternator and had a look at the pump. Well it appears to be a rotary vane pump and it had A LOT of oil in it. Being a diesel they have stacks of oil in the intake system. Well, this must have been designed to have oil going through it, maybe not high volumes but it still worked just fine. 2: Have the drain come straight down into the pump, and it will be pushed out the other side into the sump :) If its not up the job, well low pressure crankcase (Plan B) Well in short, I'm hoping the pump will create a low pressure in the housing, as well as allowing oil to pass through. Because its mechanicaly driven, it should be fine coping with the increase in volume at higher RPM. I will have to do some testing, see if it creates enough vacuum and will allow liquid to pass through. As far as I know, I'm the first to do this :S Race cars run vacuum in the crankcase, but that's to create a better piston seal and reduce wind age. I have never heard of somebody using vacuum to balance the pressures inside a turbo. Granted this was an after thought :P I did think it would suck some oil, but certainly not the amount it is. Edited June 20, 2011 by Jaydnisevil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 Sounds like you're missing the bigger picture in regards to the carbon seal. If oil can get sucked past the seal at 10-20 in/hg of vacuum, do you not think boost will get pushed back past it the other way at even just 5psi!? And being draw-through that also means you then have fuel in your oil!!!! :o Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaydnisevil Posted June 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 Sounds like you're missing the bigger picture in regards to the carbon seal. If oil can get sucked past the seal at 10-20 in/hg of vacuum, do you not think boost will get pushed back past it the other way at even just 5psi!? And being draw-through that also means you then have fuel in your oil!!!! :o Its possible yes, but I would imagine there would still be vacuum at that part of the turbo. My thought of recent have been to convert to blow through, this vacuum crank idea is a temp solution; iv decided its too much of a band-aid to leave that way in the long run. I found a carby already with the correct floats and only requires a hat. As for modifications required to the current set-up for this conversion, well I will just shorten the runners on the manifold and get a low pressure fuel pump. I can weld on the carby plate to the manifold and manufacture the top hat. The advantage of doing it later is I can still drive it around and muck around while building my carby and hat plates etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninja-philbo Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 so ur changing to blow thru good man to4z now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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