This is from my car, the photo shows the adm pickup where it falls in the jdm swirl pot. I've got this feeding an external 1litre under car surge thank through a cheapo lift pump and genuine bosch hp pump 984 as 2azfe needs 3.5 bar fuel pressure.

OK, that's a fairly serious difference in the baffles. I've got the in-tank pump fitted just like that too.

 

Then a bracket welded onto the diagonal stay under the intake. That takes the high-pressure pump on its VL rubber mounts. I marked the hole for that bolt, can't see a thing in a black photo.

 

..and the little surge tank goes on a bracket under the intake system just behind the pump.

 

Then another bracket today to move the charcoal canister. Hopefully that's the last of the manufacturing!

Edited March 25, 201610 yr by altezzaclub

The surge tank is in and plumbed, tucked up under the intake system.

 

The main pump is mounted on the intake's diagonal brace.

 

But as a distraction we are doing up the spare RA40 for sale... We drove it home from Queensland a couple of years back as those models are quite rare and we "might have needed a spare shell" Actually, we soon decided it was far to good to rally, the inside is immaculate and the driver's front guard had been lightly smacked and replaced with a yellow one. Luckily all the headight/indicator stuff was unmarked, so some of us spent the day sitting outside under a tree sanding the guard and painting it.

 

If you want a really nice RA40 let us know. $3000 would buy it. The 18RC runs fine, but we could replace it with an 18RG if you're keen...

 

Tomorrow is the last day here for a week or so, I'll finish mounting the charcoal canister and head back to Orange. The wiring comes next!

Oh I've often thought about rallying up one of those.

 

But you're right, too good to rally, and spares these days?

 

Hah!

Well, I was wondering about this COR thing and the talk of Main EFi Fuses, and I wandered over to the spares pile.. the 20-odd cars cars lying around the farm. one was this, a demolition derby "survivor" Steve had used years ago...

 

and under the bonnet I found this-

 

A couple of hours spent checking each wire and relay with a multi-meter and I had an idea of the circuitry. Another hour and it was mounted like it was factory..

 

Now I've run out of other things to do and have to actually start chasing and joining wires!

 

I'm amazed how uninformative or unfinished or generally useless a lot of the advice on the web is when it comes to wiring a 4AGE into a KE70! We will see how we go...

I'm sure it will be very complete and informative by the time you finish ;)

Pity I deleted all my build threads. Especially my 4agze into ke70 thread. I documented it pretty well.

Yeah, the best ones are those that say

 

"The photos show which wire to connect to .."

 

"Photos moved or deleted. Discover Photobucket now"

 

Anyway, good news and bad news..

 

The place is full of mudwasps now its autumn, there being a size of mudwasp for every size of bolthole. These ones do 4-6mm holes, so they buzz around your head looking in your ears and nose. This one checked out the undersie of the kettle.

 

Then it went all over the bonnet checking out the small holes.

 

Meanwhile, I was changing the water temp sensor and broke off the thread!! These are unobtainable, and unless someone has one lying around to sell me I'll try to get the little rim welded back on. Plan B is to drill the hole right into the channel and thread it further.

 

But having taken that off I found the next size up mudwasp had blocked off the bleed to the waterpump completely!

I did get a relay set up for the ignition power to coil +ve. The B/O wire that powers the 4K ignition runs right around the bay and appears on the passenger's side, the ideal feed for the relay signal. I assume it was the fuel solenoid cutoff.

 

The purple wire that runs with the B/O is on both sides too, and I'd like to use it to take the coil -ve tacho feed back to the 4K tacho wire. Does anyone know what that purple wire is for?? Its not on the flat-fronts, so they must have added something to the slanty.

 

The oil and water sensors were pretty easy, extend one and shorten the other, and run them over the injector valley.

 

There are three plugs on the 4AGE engine loom I don't know about. Do we need these?? Anyone know what they do?

 

I've found a wiring diagram that tells me red is for VSV1, B/Y for STA etc, but that doesn't tell me if that particular plug is involved.

the big one for you coil? the small one for the lambda? and the one with 2 wires i can't remember i used? can't remember it being so many plugs on the exhaust side of the engine..

 

i all the "4A-GE into KE Guides" are really dodgy and not really helping, everyone just tells you its sooo easy blah blah blah, and linking to the wiring diagram... yes the wiring diagram helps but you don't have a clue what plug they go to..

This should help.

 

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/39148-alot-of-4age-wiring-questions/

Yep, I've seen that page. I figured as they say, none of the plugs are important, and they can vanish if it all runs OK.

 

Now onto ECU wiring problems....

Bugger about the water temp sender, I think it's the only part that can't be sourced isn't it??

 

I saw whispers of someone producing an aftermarket one somewhere, but I don't know how far off that is.

 

Good luck with the wiring. That's not far off for me :)

OK, the wiring drove me made for a week, and on the day I put up a help topic to sort out the plug problem, I realised how to get power into the system. Because it came off a guy's race car I thought everything was there, and everything that was there ran the motor..

 

Once I saw that you just chop the odd plug off and run fresh wires to the ECU, it was less than a day's work.

 

I ran the wires for the 'COR box to ECU' under the rad with the alty wires, and joined them into the 4AGE loom using some wires hanging off the front by the dizzy that aren't used. That meant I could go to the footwell and have those wires right at the computer, I just had to move them over to the right pins. That's the BF, the Fc, and the STA (being power for injectors, signal to keep the fuel pumps on, and a 'start'signal) The only other wires needed were permanent 12V and ignition 12V, and there are wires doing that in the footwell loom where the wiper relay box is.

 

So tomorrow I need to buy another set of joiners for the last wires, and see if that unobtainable outlet can be welded. The final bits are the ign 12V to the ECU, the fan thermoswitch (haven't bought one yet) and the LED for engine diagnosis. Then get it running and THEN tidy it all up and put tubes on the looms!

 

The KE70 loom fits in nicely with the COR box and the 4AGE loom. The stock B/O and purple wires are on both sides of the bay, so one carries ign to the 4AGE coil relay (was the fuel shutoff solenoid) and the other carries the tacho signal back to the driver's pickup wire. That ign also lights up the COR relay box.

 

The alty powers the COR box and runs under the rad to the stock KE70 setup, and the stock wires run the starter. When I get time I'll draw up a wiring diagram of it all. AND, today a very nice man dropped in a thick book called "Wiring Diagrams for Japanese Cars and said-"here, you can keep this.." !! Inside is a pristine KE70 wiring page, which I will get scanned in the highest resolution possible!!

 

Here's the general layout-

Oh now that is going to be handy for me. Thanks altezza :D