in fact, forget about buying parts, get out on a track and have fun. and if its not drifting good enough, go faster.

 

I definatley agree with this bit, you arent going to learn good control by sliding one corner at a time on the street (plus its just dodgy).

 

Track time

then good tyres all round

then suspension

then diff and clutch

then more power

 

Thats the way I see it anyway.

hmmmm ok I'm just waiting for the new year to start then ill sign u at the local track cuz its like 500 somthing with fees all up not including the 60 bucks each prac but its yearly membership only and if you sign up half way thru the year you only get half the year then ect ect but yeah my next purchase after my car is out of the panel shop is lsd then front improve ment and yes i have been looking at ae86 steering knuckles can you just bolt em straight up

I definatley agree with this bit, you arent going to learn good control by sliding one corner at a time on the street (plus its just dodgy).

 

Track time

then good tyres all round

then suspension

then diff and clutch

then more power

 

Thats the way I see it anyway.

 

 

 

yeah i have had more practice in a xf then my rolla only been out twice in it sucks

the falcon scares me :S so soft the springs are

Coreys tips for running an underpowered Corolla on a medium to small sized course.

 

Run high pressure in the rear, and run a narrower track/skinnier tires in the rear, but not too much. Yeah, I know it looks dumb, but it's just necessary for long drifts in an underpowered car.

 

Lengthen or find longer front control arms to get you angle before the tire hits the wheel-well or tension rod. This also gives you more camber. The sway bar may get in the way, but if you can run stiff enough springs, toss it. Obviously deal with the steering stops as necessary.

 

Run wheels with decent offset in the front. 14x7 +0 for example.

 

Run insane amounts of caster. This will make the steering much more responsive, especially necessary for cars with a steering box. Increased caster and wheel offset will help the self steer behaviour, so you can get the tail out and let the wheel spin on its own to counter.

 

I find older harder tires the best for the rear, as the amount of grip doesn't really matter, it's how consistent it is. For example, Sumitomo htr200 are great drift tires because they have a new age performance tire tread pattern but a hard wearing compound that never really gets greasy. Talk to anybody who tries to grip drive with them, and you'll hear mediocre reviews.

 

For leaf spring cars, NEVER RUN BLOCKS, de-arch the springs and/or reverse the eyes. Blocks are terrible, you're likely to get terrible wheel hop, or at least terrible axle wrap which will leave you running hard on the pinion snubber the entire time you're on the throttle, leading to unpredictable bouncy handling.

 

In my KE10 I run a custom main leaf about 25% thicker than the stock one, flat with reversed eyes. Then, I de-arch the rest of the stock leaves flat to match, and make sure the clamps are nice and tight. This gives about 4-5inches of drop and very decent handling. If your car has rubber bushings between the axle perch and springs, get rid of them.

 

I'm sure to get some disagreement here, but this is what works great for myself and the guys local to me. We spend a lot of time drifting Corollas at a beat up smaller oval+infield track.

Also if you want to driftz good you have to mutilate the interior by taking everything out, Its a well known fact.

Edited January 20, 201214 yr by Spencer

Also if you want to driftz good you have to mutilate the interior by taking everything out, Its a well known fact.

 

You sir have forgotten the most important part to drift cars!! STICKER BOMBING

And the subway handle

 

And a dildo shift , for when your mate rips a sick skid infront of you , you can pull over and have some quite time by yourself

Anyone use AJPS lock spacers/ any lock spacers and are they worth getting? Or is there a cheaper way of improving lock

Lock spacers are good man!!! Adds about 15-20 degrees and is safer than the stupid slip on spacers that push your tie rods out of the rack, also look into ae86 p/s knuckles they are shorter and give more lock

Nice seeing the picture if lock spacer was not impressive haha. I thought it was going to add like 5 degrees max.

Cut and shut knuckles for extra lock for sure, mate has hayman knuckles without a lock spacer and it's considerably more than stock

Excuse my noobness but where abouts on the steering knuckle do you cut and shut? The part where the tierod end connects to?

Nah man where in between where the tie rod mounts and where it bolts to the lower ball joint on the thinner part of the knuckle

Excuse my noobness but where abouts on the steering knuckle do you cut and shut? The part where the tierod end connects to?

Cutting and shutting arms is not for amateurs

 

I wouldn't recommend cut and shut for street cars.