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The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

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please! if that is so then how about this instead

 

A closer look at the holes drilled in the Star pressure plate. This reduces the surface area enough to "soften" the hit of the Kevlar for the street. They also serve as a vacuum break for quicker disengagement.

 

 

http://www.gmhightec...k/photo_06.html

 

0105gmhtp_shifting06_zoom.jpg

Edited by diegoh

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  • altezzaclub
    altezzaclub

    In 16 years time... "The Girl's AE86"

  • oh what a nissan feeling!
    oh what a nissan feeling!

    This is really really cool, thanks for sharing!   So 2.4 capacity, as light as a 4ag. Cheap as to buy. :hmm:   What are the factory powers numbers for the model you are using?

  • actually the second strongest method of clamping a crank is level with the edge of the block like that, pending how much metal is on the other side, have a look at a deisel or an F20C, they have a spl

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  • Author

I don't feel the engineering in the design of the steel cover would be that far over that you could go drilling holes in it.

 

I'm actually pretty happy with the weight of the flywheel.

 

The blacktop flywheel on the 20v is a little lighter that this unit, not much. I think with the higher capacity and the ability the larger motor has to rotate it, it should be about right. With the torque spread of the stock cams and vvti, it wont need to achieve massive rpm change to go forwards.

the longer stroke has all the torque you need just wondering thats all as drilling holes strategically could be cheap but you are right rpm changes are minimal with what you are achieving already

Just got Neg camber roll centre adjusters in the post. :lovin:

 

whoa, why would you run those? you know their not good for your suspension right?

  • Author

Explain.

 

I think they might be needed. Depending on what I do with front brakes. I'm using ra40 struts and am looking at different brake options. It might be a way to get a little clearance if I need it between lca and rotor.

Edited by LittleRedSpirit

  • Author

Heli coil in the back of the motor has just been fitted.

 

Also had Danny the heli coil guru tap the threads in the block for the mounts. Not heli coiled at this stage, but with this equipment he was able to tap the entire depth of the hole.

 

When I visited my mechanic mid week he showed me a 2azfe that had been completely cooked in a rental car after the driver got a stick in the radiator. The bore blew out between cylinder 2 and 3, all the valves ruined, coils all died, manifolds warped. Pretty much a massive ʞ©$ɟ up, but it was interesting to examine how the thing failed.

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Edited by LittleRedSpirit

  • Author

I did more work on the bell-housing union today.

 

I examined every hole for its suitability and I ended up making a 5 bolt and 2 stud union thats perfectly strong. I was able to tap into the meaty rim of the bell-housing for the most part.

 

I have a photo with all the holes numbered around the bell-housing and some notes about doing it if anyone wants to see them.

Edited by LittleRedSpirit

Bugger, no good! Ah well, great things take time. Looking forward to seeing it together - it's an impressive build so far!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Went and did a few more small things.

 

Drilled a couple of holes in some of the larger steel plate areas of the mounts, just to shed some precious grams.

 

I also got finer emery cloth and made a jig to polish inside the inlet manifold and the inside of the oil pipe. Its like a mirror in there now. Should be nice and smooth to flow air and oil respectively. Now that I have a disc and linisher sander combo machine i was able to face the flanges on the oil pipe too, came up a treat.

 

IMAG0711.jpg

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IMAG0712.jpg

Edited by LittleRedSpirit
image replacement

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