I'm fairly sure my beema has zero fuel at zero throttle above a certain rpm (maybe 2500?). Marked change in exhaust noise, sounds like you turn off the ignition, and my economy meter goes to zero. 

Is there any reason why you don't have zero fuel at zero throttle?

 

Also it seems the forum doesnt like apostrophees.

Edited April 3, 20179 yr by ke70dave

I guess I could go to zero, but a tiny bit of fuel helps cool the pistons and valves.  I figure if I'm hard into it for a while its good for it.  Ill keep fooling with it in the longer term, see how I go.  Still fussing with idle control a bit.

New (old) plates are on.

 

 

I have 'over-run fuel cut' activated on my wolf. Cuts fuel completely with 0 throttle above 2900. I tried it lower but will stall as the recovery doesn't have time to catch it.  Makes a nice little pop when it kicks back in sometimes. I'm sure it saves me a little bit in fuel as you spend more time at 0 throttle than you ever do at w.o.t.

Edited April 3, 20179 yr by Taz_Rx
Auto correct on w.o.t.

That's interesting.  Cheers for the tips.  I didn't like the burble as it just sounds untuned, and was a waste of fuel, and there's some anomalous setting in my car somewhere that makes the over run settings not work at all.  Its got control of the points at which you release to get over run cut and when the fuel comes back on, but both settings seem not to have any control and I do it in the fuel map.  I read in the ecu manual that the fuel cut wont work if ac is on, so I guess I need to check if there's some setting making it think that's occurring.

I was looking around the house for more mods to do, so I decided to fit the phenolic gaskets under the itbs.  I whipped it all apart, refitted the itbs with the spacers and a gasket either side, and then got out Chris' syncro Gauges and re-synced them since I could not resist playing with them a little while they were apart.  I ran the car idling for a while, let it warm up before syncing and adjusting, and could really notice the phenolic spacers working as the inlet manifold was too hot to touch and the itb felt about 40 degrees.  Winning.

 

I also found some way better idle control settings and lifted the idle 50rpm and it smoothed out beautifully.

 

 

Took a long cruise today around the suburbs.  Saw someone had a beautiful Blue Monaro in the ditch on Winn Rd at the samford valley end.  With three blokes frantically trying to haul it back onto the road.  Also saw some young dude getting canaries on the side of Samford Road, Keperra, in an R31.  Poor bastard just looked up longingly at the 86 as it went by.  It was on its guts and maxed camber so he sort of brought it on himself unfortunately.

So was looking for a brake related squeak.  Front left wheel bearing was shot.  Popped off the grease cover, seems it leaked.  It was a repro one.  So even the simplest shit they can't get right.  Had to settle for repco wheel bearings so I hope they last.  Cleaned and repacked the front left.  The inner bearing was perfect but the outer was corroded and spinning in a chocolate smoothie.  Sounded dry as when you spin the hub.

All fixed now.  I also cleaned the front right brakes out.  I suspect the squeak was the drums full of dust as usual, but I didn't get that far after doing the one sides bearing.  Hopefully shows some tangible improvement.

I also silicone sprayed the door glass runs, which where super tight after having been removed and scrubbed while the car was apart.  All smooth now.

 

Around town economy as pretty low last fill, about 8 ks a lite, but I spent ages playing with idle control and transient without driving it so hopefully its not typical of the car now.  If anything it should be better after a tune it was way rich up top, and I've trimmed off tap fuel right up.  Me thinks another highway test is in order.  Reed send me your number already and Ill come see you.

 

 

What is your wheel bearing installation method if you don't mind me asking? Wheel bearings should last for years and years.

What brand was the wheel bearing that failed on you? I refuse to use any bearing that is not SKF or NTK or any of the Japanese brands. Last few bearings I have bought (not wheel bearings, but other automotive bearings) I have just taken the old bearing to an industrial bearing shop (CBC etc) and they have matched it up for me in a decent brand. 

 

 

All of that's my usual plan too, but not on a Sunday morning when I'm playing golf in 3 hours time.

It failed because the dust cover let water in, not because the bearing was poor.  They were whatever came with my hubs, I never changed them.

Method, First strip it all and fully clean every part in the parts washer.  I pack the hub with grease between the races, then I roll the bearing full of grease with my palm, then redo just in case, then jam it together and listen for that sucking noise as it goes together that lets you know the grease made a seal.  Then tension super lightly.  Maybe tighten once gently, get the feel of it, make sure its not binding and the races are squarely fitted by having even rotation with no binds.  Then back off and just let the weight of the wrench fall on it and that's tight enough.  Chopped an Aurion too.

Oh and I did some reading yesterday, both Nachi and SKF have moved their production to the third world, either india, mexico or china.

Yeah even NTN is manufactured in china. The only hope is that they use Japanese quality assurance in their china factories...

The bearings repco supplied had MKA on them.  I looked for ages could not find any data on them.  Repco is owned by Indians now anyhow.

Post edited I couldn't find the post delete button. Long time reader, first time poster, Awesome thread keep it up!

Edited April 10, 20179 yr by ms85er

No need to apologise, I wish people posted and asked things more often.

 With your wheel bearing method of tightening you should probably do your first drive then recheck for play. Its good to see how often you get out in this I prob get out once a fortnight atm due to alot happening at once, more frequent soon i hope.