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The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.


LittleRedSpirit

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Diff lapping Jake! Just across the street from your work.

 

Just take it there, get them to straighten it and wash the housing in their big bath to get rid of any contaminants from the fabrication. Make sure you get them to tug out the baffles when they clean it as they just lift out.

 

In other news, Sam qs' latest contribution to my project has arrived in the form of a pair of f series oil deflector baffles to go into the mk 2 diff. They are perfect Sam!

 

Sam: I don't think the Toyota gaskets are very effective, they are coated metal, but they will still get hot and spread heat. I have a brand new set of those to fit but would rather toss them and fit the phenolic sheet as it does a much better job. Plus I want to try it and test the results on the 20v and make what I can of the benefits.

 

If I can't find anyone here who can do it I definitely will send it down to you.

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Ah sorry I got mixed up, I was thinking of the gasket that goes from a 20V manifold to the head. I didn't realise you where talking about each throttle being spaced, silly me.

 

Good to hear the baffles are exactly what you where looking for. I will likely buy some for myself in the future as I am collecting Tarago diffs to convert.

Edited by Sam_Q
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Ah sorry I got mixed up, I was thinking of the gasket that goes from a 20V manifold to the head. I didn't realise you where talking about each throttle being spaced, silly me.

 

Good to hear the baffles are exactly what you where looking for. I will likely buy some for myself in the future as I am collecting Tarago diffs to convert.

 

Tarago diffs should have them in there already afaik. Its only the 70s ones that see to be without them.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just had a phone call from NPC.

 

They decided to machine down the 2azfe flywheel to accept the smaller rwd oriented ring gear from the y flywheel.

 

This works fine with an 8mm spacer plate for the starter.

 

Theyre just putting together the clutch hydraulics and then it will be good to go hopefully later today or tomorrow.

 

Then I need to find another alloy welder person to build up some tig on the bellhousing for me. Then I can make the union a bit more secure and bolt it into the chassis.

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Got the clutch setup back. Doug made me a billet throwout bearing carrier, and also a custom flywheel.

 

The flywheel was as simple as machining the ring gear surface down to accept the correct ring-gear to work with the y starter.

 

This took flywheel weight from stock 7.5 kg to 6.6kg.

 

Also allows me to use the stock 2azfe clutch which is the same as v6 toyota clutches, so no need for some big skyline number.

 

Ill drop the gearbox in to diff lapping later to fit the brass shifter parts.

 

Then I can assemble the driveline.

 

Still hanging on my coilover setup to be finished, but I'm told early next week for that.

 

Gotta get the baffles into the diff asap aswell.

 

Looking good for the bulk of the work to happen in the holidays.

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My passion is the learning and the execution of the project.

 

The best way, I have pretty much forced myself to fix every issue and do every upgrade on my car myself. Whats the point if your not learning?

Your build is just 1000% more tech than mine, but one day... :)

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Thanks alot!

 

I'm so excited to see this come together.

 

Its been so much organising and engineering, I'm getting impatient to drive it and test the work!

 

Just want to have it all nice enough to put together. The challenge will be remaining patient enough and tidying everything up nicely before final assembly.

 

Not sure if I mentioned my plan earlier but I intend to leave the 11:1 pistons out of the motor for now. I just want to drop that off this list to save time, get it together quicker and a bit cheaper, and to not risk destroying them if my oiling pipe extension idea and motor reorientation proves faulty.

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The W57 is now at diff lapping having the brass shifter kit fitted and a general health check.

 

I made a couple of blank off plates, one that mirrors where the starter fits on the 2az, and one that closes the inspection hole at the bottom of the motor.

 

Ive arranged to have the motor helicoiled where the engine mounts bolt up.

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just wondering if there are ways to lighten the steel pressed clutch covers using tappered or beveled speed holes?

It would save a fortune on alloy billet units from Cusco and ORC single plate units

 

I'll dig out a photo later demonstrating why this is an insanely bad idea.

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