thats a good news man :-)

thats a good news man :-)

 

I'm so happy its not the bottom end :dance:

 

EDIT: Found ARP flywheel bolts off the shelf in Brizzy too :y:

 

ARP > loctite > torque wrench > no worries mayyyyte

Edited November 14, 201312 yr by B.L.Z.BUB

Use new bolts.

Should use new ones every time.

Actual can't believe what I am reading here, the results of this could have been disastrous. Be thankful you still have legs ;)

Yeah, well I can't know everything about everything the first time around :P

glad its all sorted, time to find out what boost the S/C is now making???

Your very ʞ©$ɟing lucky could have been a painful and costly experience. Lucky you clued on to the sound

Buys torque wrench, doesn't lose legs.

I have to say, I'm seriously impressed that you managed to work out where it was coming from.

I have to say, I'm seriously impressed that you managed to work out where it was coming from.

 

I'm getting good at learning off the internet. I would never have guessed it because it seriously sounded like it was under the cam covers.

Well, I will admit I've never seen that before! At least now you know how to put it on properly..

 

Still, even if it came off the crank it wouldn't go anywhere, its held in place by the gearbox input shaft and you'd lose drive to the g'box. instantly.

I still wouldnt want it to happen at full boost at 7500rpm.

 

So now you'll have a cheap/spare SC12 for sale?!

 

MIssed that, might hold on to it as a spare.

Seems to have done the job. Left the loctite for 24 hours to cure 100%. Car goes hard.

Edited November 15, 201312 yr by B.L.Z.BUB

Have to be careful using loctite on Flywheel bolts. Get all the bolts snugged home dry, remove one at a time, loctite and then put it back in the hole and torque it up. Try to do them all at once and there's a chance the Loctite can get between the mating faces, stops the flywheel from sitting correctly on the faces. Then doesn't take long for the loctite to get beaten into submission and all of a sudden your flywheel bolts are loose again.

 

Probably fine for your situation, seeing as the engine hasn't run long, but if it had been beating around for a while, you can wear the face where the bolt heads sit. If it's not perfectly flat there, the bolts won't stay tight, regardless of proper torque and loctite, would need to take it to a machine shop and get the faces true'd up again.

 

Also worth noting that the drive pulley bolt on the nose of the crank needs to be f-tight as well. Driving a lot of accessories thru that pulley, though mostly the supercharger. If they get loose there it can make a knocking noise as well and can ruin the nose of the crankshaft to the point it's a throw-a-way job.