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Ke55-S Xx Coupe

Mechanical Sympathy

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Thanks, that is a compliment coming from well established members. It is indeed a budget build!


The kits for the type S5 OEM 2TG carbs I have were $65 each which was the cheapest I found. His website is very informative even if it is a little tricky to navigate.



Edited by Mechanical Sympathy
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  • 4 weeks later...

Ayy a thousand bucks.. You'd wanna buy it for that, but you wouldn't want to sell it for that!


They're getting hard to find and I saw a beaut restorer from Meringandan sell for $1000 on gumtree in less than 3 days over the new year.


I was glad it sold so quick because it was making me feel anxious and because three car rule.


Is yours an XX? Start a build thread and give us a look!

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  • 2 months later...

I'd been putting off doing any mechanical work because I wanted to finish the body work first so that the car would remain 4K and driveable throughout that process.


The body work is getting there. I have been applying myself week nights instead of drinking beer and looking at it!


But I enjoy mechanical stuff so much more. I'll just put these together. And pour a white rabbit.





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Thanks Clapp - it would appear that jealously is all relative! I'd say all you're missing is some T series goodness - though I think I'd miss pedalling a 3TG also..


Thanks again for your help the other month. I did a quick test-fit and these chrome vents will look pretty special once they're finally installed and detailed!



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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Aha! Progress? Well.. it's been gradual, but steady. Sorry I know I'm a bit slow!


A quick recap of the last couple months. As I mentioned, I was getting a bit stale on the bodywork so busted open some new service parts and got to tinkering. I wanted to replace this crusty old rear main seal, as well as the spigot bearing which was seized.





I tried the wet bread trick but this one was quite stubborn. I substituted dunny paper soaked in WD40 and spanked it with a rubber hammer onto a gearbox bolt.





This is the end of the crank before I cleaned it. I think I was more worried about putting things back together properly so I didn't take a clean photo. Nonetheless, I cleaned up the end of the crank with a combination of steel wool, scourer, metho and WD40.




The replacement rear main seal supersedes the old orange one that has a spring around the inside circumference. The new one is much thinner (so sits further in), It has a series of tiny rubber "teeth" at 45 degrees on the contact surface which I suppose must increase the contact surface area, and feels like it's PTFE coated. My coffee percolator base was just the right diameter to tap it home.




Crank still looks a bit crusty in this photo. But it was clean and smooth to the touch, and nonetheless the main seal sits on the crank further in than the old one so misses the old contact line. New spigot bearing feels like silk.




My T50 front seal had definitely been leaking so I replaced that too.





I cleaned up the underside of the block and aplied gasket goo in the four spots indicated in the 2T engine manual.




I wirebrushed and high-temp enamelled the sump - rough but good enough. Then I found some clean lovely cadmium-plated bolts in my 2T bolts bucket and gradually torqued it down. Figuring they were extras from the other engine, I spaced them nicely around the sump - like in case I ever had mirrors under the car at a car show. Of course they were supposed to be my clutch bolts. So now I have sump bolts holding the clutch onto the flywheel. Hmm I'm hoping they're the same tensile strength!




Then - as mentioned I put the whole show together to inspire me to get back onto the bodywork.




Which it did! My gutters were a bit flakey and scaley, but without any major rust. People tell me acrylic breathes and I don't want anything I've touched to rust again so I ground/sanded/cleaned them, doused them in Wattyl rusteeter and sealed them over with epoxy. Hey, it looks worse than it is! And yes, I have a replacement dash to go in there (It can wait 'til I do the hydraulic clutch conversion).




I dragged the loose panels into the yard and hit them with some spray putty and a wet/dry rub to get things ready and in shape for a future coat of high-fill primer. Wet beer, dry paper that is.




And also did a bit more work on the car itself . I'm still in two minds here. I've got a bit more work to make the rear quarters look 100%, or I could just bolt on the fibreglass flares and cover my crimes. The following day I mowed the lawn!





There I am. Hopefully in the coming weeks I'll be ready for some primer!

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Thanks mate! Yeah I expect you're right..


While the flares formed part of my original "vision" for the project, it might even make sense to get it registered without them and run some inoffensively sized 13" wheels and tyres and then fit the flares.


Less controversial, and less mucking around for now. Heck I don't need any more procrastinating - 2015 is going to be the year!


Oh I got the Jovites stripped too. Turns out they're a 6/6.5" staggered set. Yeah I think these will go on first, sans flares.




I had a bargain bling win on eBay. $20 won me this unused carbon fibre cold air box. It was local and I picked it up within the hour. The base hasn't been cut. No doubt it will be a bit large near the brake master, so I will shave the bottom section at a taper toward the back. But I don't think I'll be able to fit my trumpets inside. Never mind!


This will allow me to plumb up the PCV breather properly to keep Mr. Plod happy and will quieten down the intake - because I'm old. I'll plumb the 100mm intake to an air filter somewhere low beside the radiator for some cold air.



Edited by Mechanical Sympathy
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