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Ke30 Wheel Sizes/offsets


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was just wondering about something posted in a thread: "15x7 with offset between 0 to +10 is spot on for KE's".


I'm looking to upgrade wheels on my ke30, currently have some Tarago steel wheels 14x5.5 +30 (measured offset myself so hopefully its accurate) on stock standard (AFAIK) suspension, and the outer edge of the front rims is about 20mm in from the guard (rears have plenty of space). According to this willtheyfit.com link, 14x7 +0 will stick out and extra 2 inches, which makes it seem that they will not fit well. Do you need to flair/roll the guards to fit this size rim, or have i missed something in my calculations?


I have also measured the stock ke30 wheel offset/size at 13x4 +40 meaning that 14x7 +0 would stick out an extra 78.1mm - does this sound right?


any insight is much appreciated.

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Check out Shiryos fitment on his 30.


- 14x7.5-6 front

- 14x8-3 rear


Personally I think he has got them spot on. Obviously you'd need camber plates for the front.


Thanks Reed.

Actually running 14x7.5 -9 front and 14x8 -8 rears now with slip on spacers.

Also extended LCA's as camber plates are maxed.

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  • 1 month later...

I have been mulling and calculating wheel offsets over the past 24hrs and this is what I have found so far (of course this is what I will be running, but may be of some help to others)


Now just to set the scene this was done late at night so please correct me if I am off the mark.


The original size wheel for a KE30 was a 13x5.5 (or at least that is what Betsy had on her)

The mounting point for the wheel to car was 4 inches in from the inside of the rim therefore being 1.25inches of positive offset from the centre (0 offset).

1.25inches = 31.75mm therefore the offset of the original (wheels I had on Betsy) is 13x5.5 ET+32.


Now the fun begins.

First using a straight edge (level) and a ruler I measured the distance between the outside of the original rim and the inside of the guard, which was around 57mm (remembering this was done late at night.

Then playing round with the wheel sizes as well as the offsets this is what I found. Remembering I want the new rims to sit inside the original lines (rolling of the guards or lipping them is also an option if needed).

15x7.5s (ET 0) put the wheel the same distance from the strut and push the entire rim 57.4mm further out. But then I found out the rims I was after don't come in 15x7.5 :bash:

So after much fooling round with the numbers this is what I ended up with (fingers crossed it is right).



15x7 (ET 0) will pull the wheel 13mm further away from the strut and push the entire rim 51.1mm further out. Giving me 6mm (of the un-rolled guard) to play with. However I am still yet to investigate the rubbing or turning (full lock) to see if it hits anything.



15x8 (ET 0) put the wheel the same distance from the strut and push the entire rim 63mm further out. Making me have to roll the guard to find an extra 6mm.


Now if I was to go 15x9 at the rear which I am still considering (due to AWESOME factor :rocknroll: ) the best option I found was 15x9 (ET 0) for it will be 12.5mm closer to the strut and push the entire rim 76.5mm further out. Reason I'm leaning away from this is that I will definitely have to roll the guards to allow for that extra 19.5mm,



Other option

The other option is to just run 15x7 all round and fill the guards out with spacers (if needed).


Hope this was of some assistance, and I know it is frustrating, so GOOD LUCK with the selection. :hmm:

Edited by Robski
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Sorry guys and gals I went over my calculations and found that the original rim was in fact 13x5. So I re-measured and re-calculated and the numbers above should be now correct. Personally I am leaning towards running 15x7 (ET 0) at the front and 15x8 (ET 0) at the rear, due to the numbers showing that it is reasonably close to stock positioning, as well as keeping within the original guards (without rolling).


As stated above just need to check the full lock measurements to see if there is room to move up front with the 15x7s.

Edited by Robski
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Yeah that was what I was thinking. Worst case scenario is I will run 15x7 (ET 0) all round if I don't have the room to pull the 15x8s in at the rear to bring them within the original lines. I will check that out tomorrow and post my findings.

Edited by Robski
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Did all the measuring and looks like there is around 45-50mm between the wheel and the leaf springs at the rear. This means that if I go to a 15x8 (ET +25) at the rear I should still have plenty of room between the wheel and leaf springs, it will push the wheel out by 54mm (setting the wheel inside the original lines of the car) and give me around a 75mm dish. Where as I will still stay with a 15x7 (ET 0) that will once again push the wheel out by around 51mm (setting it inside the original lines) and again give me around a 3.5inch dish.


That ROCKS, enough said!!!!

Edited by Robski
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 9 years later...

Welcome aboard, & thank you for joining our community.   Where are you physically located ?   Many of our members are globally located, & wheels are going to be an expensive item, to freight, depending on where you are based.

Cheers Banjo


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