My ke70 won't accelerate

[Max666]

Hi Corolla gurus,

so I changed and adjusted the points on the 4K , set the timing, seemed to over rev, then I saw a bang and a puff of smoke from just above no3 spark plug or piston. Now no matter what I adjust on the carby it idles rough and when I pull the accelerator cable it seems to bog down and wants  to cut out, if I push through, the fuel in the the carby flames out of the top of carby. 

1) is it flooded?

2) blown head gasket? 

Thanks for any advice , spent all day on it , driving me nuts !!!!

cheers All

Edited May 6, 2017 by Max666
Spelling

[SloRolla]

Have you checked the leads and plugs? also, check the fuel solonoid, turn the ignition on and pull out the power wire, if it clicks it's good. If it doesn't remove and check your 'engine' fuse.

Edited May 6, 2017 by SloRolla

[Max666]

Thanks for your reply.  I'll give that a go shortly and see how it goes,and get back to you  and yes I checked all leads and plugs , I can get it running but it won't accelerate. sorry for stupid questions but what would have caused the smoke from under the rocker cover rubber flange? 

I know I've done something I shouldn't have but I want to know what so I don't repeat it, 

[Max666]

14 hours ago, SloRolla said:

Have you checked the leads and plugs? also, check the fuel solonoid, turn the ignition on and pull out the power wire, if it clicks it's good. If it doesn't remove and check your 'engine' fuse.

Hi 

I checked engine fuse . All good and disconcected the solinoid still the same, anyway of sending a video of the problem running? 

[SloRolla]

2 hours ago, Max666 said:

Hi 

I checked engine fuse . All good and disconcected the solinoid still the same, anyway of sending a video of the problem running? 

what colour smoke is it? Maybe a couple of things. It seems that it's getting way too much fuel. Have you checked the timing? As for the video, you'd have to upload to YouTube and post the link that way.

[Taz_Rx]

Backfiring through the carby sounds like a timing issue. If you took the leads off the dizzy cap you sure you haven't mixed up the firing order? 

[altezzaclub]

Yeah, go back and check it all...

I assume you have the leads correct or it wouldn't want to run at all.  It wouldn't hurt to check which way the dizzy turns and which is number one cyl firing...

What is the points gap? What is the ignition timing? The increase in idle is from opening up the points gap, which advances the timing, so check both again.  If it is massively advanced you might get the spark before the inlet valve closes and allows the flame up the carb, but that's pretty crazy.

If that is all you have altered then it is probably in there somewhere.  If you're unlucky and its nothing to do with points gap or timing, then start hunting down the fuel mixture, but I'd make sure ignition is perfect first.

[Max666]

Thanks for all your replies,

ill start from scratch today and I'll post it back up asap

As for footage of the problem, you say post to YouTube first then link it here, am I correct? 

Cheerrs Max

Edited May 7, 2017 by Max666

[Max666]

Am I right in resetting carby, turn all screws in and 2 turns back out to make it run as a reference point? 

 

[altezzaclub]

6 hours ago, Max666 said:

Am I right in resetting carby, turn all screws in and 2 turns back out to make it run as a reference point? 

 

Nope, 'cos then it won't accelerate!  Lol.. 

Just the idle screw should be 1.5 to 2 turns out to start with.

Actually, you set the idle speed according to ignition timing and mixture, as both affect idle.  So sort the points and the timing and get it idling with the idle speed screw, then screw the mixture screw out and in until you get the maximum idle speed. You might have to play with the idle speed and mixture together to get a smooth idle that pulls cleanly.  The idle jet affects the acceleration up to a couple of thousand rpm, its doesn't just do zero throttle work.

The choke adjusting screw gives idle speed with the choke out, so you set that when its cold one morning. When the choke is pushed back in it does nothing.

 

[Max666]

Hi all 

still no love out of the 4K, done all I can do, still won't accelerate. Anyone know of someone in inner west Sydney that can take a look at it, not giving up on it, but just don't want to break something else. 

TIA for your help all the same 

cheers Max

[ke70dave]

Don't worry you wont break anything on a a 4k. 

Any mechanic older than 40 worth anything will be able to diagnose a 4k. give some mechanics a call, tell them your woes and ask if they can assist. most young guys wont have much experience with carburetor engines. Realistically they should be able to diagnose though sadly Im not sure how much they teach of carburetors these days. 

4k is a basic engine, so you need to cover the basics. How did you set the ignition timing? timing light? are you sure you got the points gap right? this is critical, how did you set the points gap. 

 

 

[SloRolla]

I feel the timing is out :^)

[Banjo]

Hi Max,

           Just love these who dunits !    I'm with Keith, in that I definitely think that its ignition timing or settings.  Particularly, as the bang occurred straight after you checked the plugs, points & timing.

To ensure that the engine isn't damaged in some way, I'd be pulling all the plugs first, checking the insulator colouring, to see if they have been running lean or rich, & that their colours are all the same.  Then if you can get hold of a compression tester, check all four cylinders & see if any one is low, or that they all don't have about the same readings.

As far as the ignition timing & settings go, I would start from scratch as others have advised, & during the process, you will discover what the problem or issue is, by working systematically through the settings.  Did you perhaps remove the distributor completely from the engine to clean & set it ?  If the dizzy is removed, there is always the risk of fitting it 1 tooth out, when reinserting the dizzy & engaging with the camshaft.

1. While the spark plugs are out, turn the crankshaft (19mm spanner) until TDC markings line up on the camshaft chain cover. Bear in mine that this maybe TDC No1, or TDC No 4,so to be sure you may have to remove the rocker cover & watch the sequence of the inlet & exhaust rockers on No: 1 cylinder.

2,  Once you are sure that you have TDC No: 1, lift the dizzy cap & make sure the rotor is directly pointing to the pin in the cap inside, whose associated HV lead goes to Spark plug no; 1 at the front of the engine.  The remaining leads should be connected to spark plugs 3, 4, & 2, from no: 1, in a clockwise direction, looking down on top of the dizzy.

3. If the leads are not as above, then swap them around, until it is as I describe.

4. Check the inside of the dizzy cap very carefully after cleaning it, that there are no carbon tracks between contact pins.  Also make sure spring     loaded carbon pin is OK, and that it provides some downward pressure on the top of the rotor.

5. If all OK, then turn the engine by hand until the points open maximum, with the rubbing block on the top tip of the cam.  Set to the recommended gap 0.45mm or 18 thou & tighten.  Turn the engine & check the gap on the remaining 3 lobes, to make sure the gap readings are essentially the same.  A big difference indicates the cam is worn.

6. Now turn the engine over slightly until the points are fully closed, just before no: 1.  With a trouble lamp clipped across the points, turn the dizzy ever so slowly, unit the trouble lamp lights.

7. Now check where the pointer on the crank shaft is pointing to, on the markings on the timing chain cover.

8.  It should be pointing to somewhere between 8-12 deg C.  If not then turn the engine until the crankshaft pulley points to 10 deg BTDC.  Now unclamp the distributor clamp slightly & rotate the dizzy carefully, until the trouble lamp just lights again, as before. 

9. This is called "static" timing and ensures that at 10 deg BTDC the points are just opening, so that the coil current collapses & fires spark plug no: 1.

After that it's time to run it & see what transpires.  There could still be other things causing mis-firing like a dead plug, or an open circuit or or HT lead breaking down, but at least you will know that the timing is OK.

Trust that assists.

Cheers Banjo

Edited May 11, 2017 by Banjo

[Big G]

Hey Banjo

Just a query my repair manual says 0.45mm for the points gap and 0.8 mm for the plug gap. Have I been setting it wrong on the Princess' rolla?