Twinky

Well. It has definitely been a while since my last update but for good reasons. For the past months I've been quite busy being a dad and all the things that come with it. The unfortunate part of that is of course time and money as the missus has only returned to part time work which means I can't splurge out on things as much. The little one. Recently the bubs has been sleeping great giving dad more time to stuff around in the shed. No joke the little one sleeps through the angle grinder. So I finally cut up and welded some inlet pipes from the manifold to the charger and from the charger to the throttle. I'm no pro welder so it took a few tries to get them right with no pin holes. The good thing about mig welders is that there is no crap left behind after a weld, so it is a lot easier to weld air tight. So after about 15 hours worth of work here we are! Aligning the pulleys is such a pain in the arse, they are slightly off and it rubs on the crank pulley. Fortunately it isn't hard up against something, it's only a slight rub so I can't even see any damage/heat/warping. I'll monitor it for a while and see if it does degrade the belt. Started up first crank and happily idled and revved. Unfortunately the pulley ratios are not quite what they need to be and I only see a peak of 3psi. It stays constant at 2psi though all gears at what sneaking up to 3 at higher rpm. So it's not a dramatically noticeable difference in power. I've still got a bit of tuning to fuel wise, not that it isn't getting enough but the map isn't as smooth as I would like it to be especially below 2000rpm. Overall I'm quite happy that the thing is running and quite well at that, I would just like about 3 more psi and it should be great. John from KEmotorsport has kindly offered a hand to help at tuning the thing on road. He's been great help so far and has fixed a few issues with my car already. He's definitely a top bloke and happily helps out people that want to take the time to listen and try things themselves. You should keep an eye out on his web page as he is developing a fuel injection kit that is bolt onto the original k series carby manifold. It's similar to the Ford single injector type set up. He is also designing a new rocker cover for K-series engines too! So my next task is to find a bigger pulley and get my pulley ratio to about 2:1. I've talked to John and he seems willing to make a bigger crank pulley (140mm gilmer). Failing that I'll make up something from a V belt setup but I would hate to get rid of the gilmer pulleys!

Move over for the ultimate powerhouse! 5KE, oversized injectors and running rich. Ready for a supercharger?

Lol I actually know the bloke selling that in the ebay link, he lives in Adelaide. If there is anything worth knowing about corollas and engines he knows it.

I suggest you really research what you are about to undertake and know what it is you are getting yourself into otherwise this could be an expensive project that does not get finished. Here are some things to consider: New fuel system (pump,regulator,lines,surge tank, lift pump) New ECU (all wiring and sensors associated with the ECU) EFI ECU trigger system (new units can take Points/Hall/Reluctor/Optical) Tuning of said ECU While the list is short the work effort required is long. Have a think about each of those points and how you would go about dealing with them, then add up the cost. I converted mine to EFI and it cost me just over $600 for parts (sensors,wiring,fuel lines,pumps etc) I did all of the work myself and then palmed it off to the tuner for another $500 for a short day on the dyno. That is also on the cheap side because I've still got a few bugs to iron out. I could pay another $500 to get it spot on but I won't at this stage. I would say that I know what I am doing, I'm no expert but I got it done and it was a large effort on my part. By the sounds of it you have no clue, not even noticing that the throttle body is missing in that ebay link. You may be able to find a complete kit if you just wait it out or have a really good search around your local wreckers. In the mean time have a good read about EFI and all associated parts so that you don't dig yourself a money pit. Have a look at my build http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/41380-twinkys-old-fart/

When you buy a Microturd new you tell them what engine and what sensors your engine has. Then they make the ECU to suit the motor. So say if you had a Honda with a Microturd ECU, and then tried to use it on your Toyota it wouldn't work because the ECU has been configured to Honda sensors. Same thing with the LT8 if it's been set up for a different motor. But if that motor has identical sensors it shouldn't be a problem. Seeing as it was the same motor it should be fine, might just need a touch up on the fuel and ignition maps.

Just in case you missed it.

Looks like your having a holiday. Also my eyes are bleeding. I think you missed a comma and a full stop. It's good that you are trying to rebuild your rolla but it's worse that you have already built your reputation. Well done

Most of the people on this forum are probably not as old as their corollas but were at least brought up with common courtesy. If you don't like the rules or the general atmosphere then I'm sure there is plenty of space left at boost loosing for you to text talk and follow no grammatical sense what so ever. We like getting new members and I'm sure plenty of people want to know what it is you are planning on doing with your corolla but please write in a way that doesn't cause eye strain. It's not just about understanding but the fact that you respect the people on this forum coming in as a new member, not just that you joined this forum for a quick advice fix that one minute on google would have answered your question. Welcome

Talk to your tuner. Microturds generally need to be re configured to run on different motors, in saying that you need to find out what differences the GZE has in comparison with sensors, i.e CAS, TPS, MAP.

I had it easy because I had a spare engine to use as a template on an engine stand.

Easy If you have metalworking knowledge. Hard if you do not, or just expensive. You have to find suitable bracing points on the engine, preferably 3 points. Another thing you may be able to modify an air conditioning bracket to mount the supercharger but I think that's a long shot. You are going to need a heavy duty drill/ drill press, cut off saw, angle grinder and/or a welder.

Metal is usually a good thing to use. Wood would probably catch on fire... But in all seriousness.... You are going to have to custom make them. You need to answer two questions firstly: 1: What engine? 2: What supercharger?

Yeah I have a torque wrench, it's not point perfect but even the specs from the books wouldn't be something to go point perfect for because of wear over the years would change what the torque setting needs to be anyway. A ring compressor will only set me back about $15 and a hone about $30. Depending on how much SLO 030 wants for his 5k will govern how I go about this. If the price is good I'll go for his engine and basically push it towards the guys at TW and get them to look over it, do the full head work and maybe just skim the block if it isn't square. I don't think I'll go as far as a full balance but I'll keep it in mind. I'm only really looking to do the necessary bits first. I don't thrash the motor as it is and when I go supercharged It won't go past 4500rpm either. If I don't get his engine I'll still take the week off but only the week that I get all the bits back. I can bus it to work quite comfortably.

PM sent

How much kind sir?

thought it was the same thing

I know that there are two different sizes of pushrods for the 5k, is that because of a difference in the block head or rocker gear though? Just I wouldn't want to get the head and find out that I can't use it. cheers

Ok so it's now time to step it up a notch in the backyard mechanic skill set. My 5K engine is slowly starting to fall apart and with the recent addition of a crack in the water jacket, suggesting head warpage I have decided the engine is need need of either binning or a DIY rebuild. I say DIY because of two things, one is that a low K 5K engine is damn hard to find locally and is usually over priced. Or two, the professional rebuilds are too expensive for what it's worth. The head work will be done by professionals as the price is great, $110 - $150 for reface + valve and valve seat re grind + crack test. I paid $110 to do that on my 4k but that was two years ago. I have priced up a simple rebuild kit from sprints. VRS kit $68 Piston rings $55 Main bearings $50 Optional new piston set $150 I have not yet priced up a hone or ring compressor yet but I would say around $200 should cover that. Then probably another $200 for disposable materials ie gasket silicone, rags, lubricants etc etc... So..... How hard is it to do? Can it be done at home with the proper tools? Can you suggest any other unique tools that I will need? I have gone through a couple of DIY rebuilds on the net and all the intricate bits are mostly in the head work with the block being the shortest time spent and least difficult. So my plans so far: Take a week off work, order parts and tools except for the new pistons as I will only need new ones if the old ones are worn to buggery. Dismantle engine, clean the shite out of the engine bay and engine parts & accessories. Pull head off and throw in the bin, get spare head and throw it at TW engineering. Pull apart block, clean, inspect, put new stuff in, put it all back together, profit?? So, the million dollar question. Should I attempt it? I'm not new to engines and am a fast learner. I've done things by halves before and I'm tired of fixing small issues down the track. I want to do this right and once only. If I want this thing to live to become my daughters first car in 16 years I want it to last. Cheers Alexey

Manx Rally 1983 onboard driving an Opel Manta Ari Vatanen "Dear God" moment at 1:38 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-R7ws741KpE

Talk to whoever is going to tune it for you. No point buying a computer only to find out your tuner is not familiar with it.

Lol the accelerator pump has been blocked off completely. It's basically the exact same carb as the one in altezzaclubs post but yours is missing a few bolt on bits.

An SC12 will have to be under driven to make a "bit more" power as it almost displaces your engine displacement in one revolution. Just with the standard pulley I would say 15psi and that's a low estimation (only if the pulley is 1:1). A pulley ratio of 0.6 would get you 7psi and a slight step up of ratio to 0.75 will get you to 12psi. There is a tonne of info on how to supercharge your engine out there on the net it's hardly worth asking. Google is your friend. Also prepare to buy shares in K series diffs as you will chew through them if miss treated. Same as gearboxes. Look for an F series diff as it seems to be all the rage.

BMW means overpriced repair bills/service.

Getting a different carby could be costly and may not solve the problem, a bit of a gamble.

Have you checked the float bowl in the carby? If this is set too high the engine will generally idle but die as soon as you put your foot on the pedal. Depending on how bad it is it might not even idle. If you have checked everything else I would suggest checking the carby for faults.