Jono

i had to adjust the brake light switch because my pedal was so stiff the lights would never come on under normal braking. i.e not much travel.

i have a series 6 rx7 master cylinder (dual circuit) which has remote reserviours from an integra. i use a vh44 booster which boosts one circuit only.

hahaha

i'm chopping up my other ke20 this week. stripped off the doors, glass, steering, dash etc but want to keep the roof and rear quarters.

just get the 9 inch out and be done with it.

castrol colours ftw

nah its very unlikely my car had anything other than standard struts, same with the shitter i bought for parts. i'm not sure how pedders f@$ked up. i mean they were very close to fitting but he said it would be very noisy as they didn't seat properly.

The japanese ECU will assume you are using the better japanese fuel i believe. i think i read somewhere that it was 100 octane. Jamesrolla: what is the number for those pedders springs? what is the ride height like? I had a set of new looking Pedders Ke20 lowered springs which are #2222 (which pedders website lists for my car) which i got off a wreck i bought, HOWEVER, when i took them to pedders to get installed (when i got shocks and wheel alignment), they didn't fit into either set of strut tops i had. ANYONE else had this problem? the bloke just said that ke25 and ke26 must have different struts. Is this true because i thought the '20, '25 and '26 all had the same front end.

no still not engineered, i need a catch can arrangement of some sort. I used a VH44 remote brake booster, rx7 m/c with remote reserviours, and ke55 front brakes.

Name: Jon Car: 74 KE20 SE Motor & Driveline: JDM small port 4AGE, 22 spline T50, KE55 diff Suspension & Brakes: KE55 brakes all round, Pedders shocks and custom swaybar Wheels & Tyres: Currently borrowing friends ET pulsar rims/ falken 195's Interior: Recaro seats / Momo prototipo wheel, VDO gauges Body: very good (car travelled less than 75000kms) Other: Haltech e6x, surge tank, bosch 070 pump, extractors - 2.5" exhaust

autobahn at warriewood tried to tell me all fuel hose was the same when i wanted EFI fuel hose for my conversion. My mate wanted them to order in a "ghostrider" video and they said they couldn't simply because they didn't like it, saying the rider in the video is "irresponsible".

mmm, hot mustard!

hey, i'm inviting myself along too since my car is all going.

very, VERY tough, love the lines and the front bar and the rear guard and the rear wheels... and.... can't find my tissues!!

you can get a sprinter inlet manifold which has the throttle body facing the front. big port only.

i've been told i may have issues with my uni-joint after the gearbox as its has a bit of an angle. I'm going to bash the tranny tunnel up a bit more and raise the back of the gearbox to fix this, i think the motor will level out a bit this way too.

i'm going, i've actually never been before.

i wonder if they are all running the original motor or what they have done.

mine looks like that too.

small ports are 100kw big ports are 86kw and have TVIS small ports were in ADM SX corollas not sure if the JDM small port is any different but keen to know as mine is an import.

my ae20 is definately quickest for me so far. my first car was the '67 mini 1000cc and next was a 318i, both not exactly rocket ships.

IMHO find a better car to do a 4agze conversion into. if performance is your thing you will find that by the time you add up the cost of the new motor, your time to put it in, the extra ricey bits and a paint job you could of bought a much newer, faster, and nicer car to drive with much more style. if performance isn't your thing, then go all out - get some 18" ricey rims, chameleon paint, drill some holes in your exhaust and/or and get a fake bov.

did you get the 87kw or the 96kw version? sweeeeet power per litre!!

well done. How much is this? But also how strong is the ke55 diff to begin with? Will it take a good beating from a 100kw 4age?