Taz_Rx

So nobody had commented on the listed torque figure!?

If you've already got a 5k you'd be stupid to go back to a 3k. Have a look at my projects thread, theres 3 different turbo setups in there and I know having a read could answer a few of your questions. ;)

Cool keep me posted then.

All k series starters are interchangeable. Sure its not just a battery low on poke?

Pretty sure I can use any impedance injector stu but wolf recommend high impedance ones. The 7mge ones are 13 ohm.

Probably not gt but I wouldn't at all be surprised if pro would do carbs. He works on a lot of local race cars and I would think some might still be carby.

82 was on 10 psi. Blue lines go together and red lines together

Hmm, I'm just going to assume its a bit low. Forgot to mention - and another sign it is making more power than that is the fact the 315cc injectors are now maxed out by 5500 rpm!

Exactly. Speaking of speed.....she what's she's spinning 4th to! :lol: That bit should at least be accurate.

So this is what I was talking about with someone (or maybe both) having a dyno reading high or low..... .........................................and todays graph: :hmm: :hmm: :hmm: There's no doubt it is making an absolute shite load more power than it was back then.

Hey Mark....I need some 55 inner front guards and the brackets for the centre console. Got them?

Yeah seat of the pants dyno tells me its running the best it ever has.....by a bit too. Unfortunately the 1/4 mile trap speed will have to wait a while yet. Our drag way is open again but currently only 1/8 until something is done about the condition of the run off area. I've got a vid queued for processing on youtube, will post it up when done. ;)

Good mate running awesome...... as for power figures either Brad dyno was reading high last time or todays dyno is reading low. You'll see what I mean shortly when I upload the graph. Went for a test run along the highway 3rd gear roll on on a slightly wet road and lit up when it boosted!!

Oh well we'll see tomorrow I guess. I'd be happy with anything over 125 really.

Brad, nah he was the guy who did the 2d map last time it was on rollers when I first got the efi running. 165.....i wish! Probably be lucky to make the 120-125 on 18 pound.

just gate pressure at the moment until tuning is done so around 10 psi. Prior to the comp raise I was running 18 psi on the switch.

Been doing the 200km treck between Launy and Hobart a bit lately. Highway fuel economy driving it easily is getting around 10Lt/100km...... but its way worse for city driving. Keeping an eye on the data on the hand controller reveals its under a lot less load at say 110kmh compared to 90-100kmh, so I'm thinking the trick to getting the best economy on the highway is to go as quick as legal. Picked the rug-rat up from daycare the other day only to find a green puddle under the front of the car...... at least it didn't happen on the midland highway. Swapped to dirt for a couple of days while I fixed it. Pressure tested it as I did a few months back - successfully fixed a small hole with "kneed-it". This time I couldn't exactly find the hole and by the size of the bubbles it seemed to be a big one. Decided that old rad had had its day and shopped around for a new one. Found some full alloy ones on ebay pretty cheap - $140-$200.... but had to get back to Hobart asap so I ended up getting one from Repco for $123!! I now know that what I had was a s1 VN rad, and I've replaced it with a s2 VN one. As the s2 has a cap on the rad itself I've also got rid of my fugly top hose....not that the flexi universal one looks all that better. Knocked up a dodgy quick thermo fan mount with a mate so I could get back on the road asap. Have had a rummage though my dads steel and alloy stash and will make a decent one next week hopefully. Used the twin 10" fans that I used to have on the RX4. Some piccies - New rad, fans and dodgy bracket...... This was my pressure testing facility from last time I fixed it..... And a couple of my apprentice mechanic..... Sorry about the shitty phone pics. In other news I blead the brakes for the first time since I've had this car. Ashamed to say that's been around 6 years. Don't know how long before that it had been done by the previous owner. They've always been pretty good, but now they're awesome......for stocko girlocks anyway. AND.....the exciting news - Off for dyno tuning in Hobart on Tuesday arvo. Going to Pro Automotive in Moonah. Guy there tunes a lot of local race cars so hopefully he'll do a good job. He's also happy for me to hang around while he's doing it which I'm happy with.....suppose I can get a vid or 2 of it on the rollers. Will update then. Will actually have a power figure this time. Anyone wanna make some guesses? Cheers, Si.

Yeah you can use the chev/datto combo with a 3k or 4k head on a 5k (I've done both), but not with the 5k head.

No they don't! There's a large lump on the bottom of the k50 housing to accommodate the extra cogs.

5k's use torque to yield bolts standard, so maybe not the best option as if you ever take the head off again you'll just end up in the same boat.

I honestly believe its not so much a matter of a power limit the gearbox can handle but the way in which the gearbox is treated. If you go dumping or kicking the clutch or smashing it from gear to gear you're more likely to do more damage than just a general increase in power. You can even get off the line rather quickly with a bit of know how while still being kind to the box, ie slipping the clutch a bit which pre loads the drive train and also helps build boost. Tbh I've wrecked more k40's by running welded diffs than with any of my k turbo setups.

Just waiting on a retune which I'll hopefully get done next week and then I'll really see, already noticed slightly better fuel economy though a bit less throttle input though.

Not too shabby....what sort of torque you making?

Definately investigate prefab coilover kits out of the states then....yanks love them and there is lots of off the shelf stuff available. Wilwood even do a bolt on kit!