Taz_Rx

As I said... "without looking at the wiring diagram".... Now I've seen it I can tell you it would be crank input 1 and the ground in the same plug wired to the dizzy. Use a multimeter to find out which is which on the dizzy. You'll only get a beep with the positive of the multimeter on the wire that connects to the crank input. Remember to close the air gap up to about 20 thou first though otherwise you might struggle to get a reliable pulse to the ecu.

You say this started after you wired up a tacho.... Are you sure you haven't accidentally earthed the write to the tacho somehow? As that could sap all of the power out of the coil!

Decent capacitor would be a good start!

I highly doubt any oil could get past the thread of the spark plug, especially if you've over tightened them. I too had the same pooling issue, tried swapping tubes from other motors but only managed to fix it with some new genuine items.

Is that seriously as much info as you're going to give us!? Where's one of those face palm gif's when you need one!

Without looking at the wiring diagram, 5v signal and ground on the ecu. Connected to the 2 wires from the dizzy. Use a multimeter connected to the dizzy and spin it to see which is which, you'll only get a beep connected one way.

Yes. That's how mine currently runs. Because the ecu is between the trigger and igniter you still get advance/retard control of your ignition, you just need to keep the dizzy cap to distribute spark. Another example of something you will have to reconfigure in the ecu is the pressure scale. if you're not running as much boost as the 4agze was you won't be using all of your load points.

I think you should just get yourself a hand controller or laptop program. Then you can just use the dizzy you have and change other setting to suit your setup. If you go changing parts just to suit the tune that's in it you might as well just drop a 4agze in it!

Running a dual pulse Cas would enable you to run sequential injection and quad coil packs. With single pulse you're restricted to banked injection and a dizzy cap to distribute spark. You need to wire that dizzy up to the signal trigger and ignition ground wires of the ecu. As said earlier though polarity is essential. Try what I mentioned earlier with the drill and see of you can get a pulse. Might also want to close the air gap up to about 20 thou..... This is all dependant on the fact that the ecu I'd set for single pulse triggering though.

Can you post a pic of the top of the dizzy with the cap off?

The dizzy should be wired to the ecu only, not back to the coil at all. The ecu will then fire the coil via the igniter.

Its not a matter of 'remapping' the ecu.... It needs to be 'configured' correctly. Its most likely setup as a dual pulse trigger from the 4agze. K series electronic dizzy's are a reluctor type. It does need to be locked. Also need an external igniter type or bypass the internal igniter. Adjusting the air gap can be rather important in getting a steady pulse especially at low rpm, ie starting. A trick we used on mine when fault finding the trigger setup was to remove the dizzy and put it in a cordless drill which spun it at about 1500rpm. And why do you have any + connected to your igniter? It should only have 3 wires connected - the ecu trigger, which is a -pulse, a ground, and a connection to the - side of the coil to discharge it. The igniter should not be connected directly to the dizzy in any way!

My square headlight 55 had a twin outlet ex manifold. If it still has cast marks in the inlet Ports then its just a single carb big port manifold. I doubt those two manifolds were originally paired.

Yes, as long as you use the 3k fly wheel and clutch. Not without the rare as rocking horse shite k-t bell housing.

When you say you replaced the plug tubes, did you get new ones our pull them out of another motor? And are you sure that's were its coming from? Could be a leaks tappet cover gasket!

Would be interesting to tinker with some bypass valves and different sized pulleys, ie one running low boost at low rpm and another thumping in the top end.... Still couldn't see it being any more effective than a twin charge setup though.... Or even just a perfectly sized turbo.

It could maybe get added to the faq Your Carter its only noisy because you didn't use the supplied mounting bracket. The rubber mounting in those things is awesome for eliminating the noise. ;) Good work btw!

Should be really easy for you to find genuine te cross members etc then! Rec'd seem more common than ke's over there.

A12 maybe :P Otherwise good luck beating a 12a Datsun with a 3k lol.

That's because that setup works for a 5k bottom end 3k/4k head combo ;)

So you've got rid of all the misfiring now? Sounds like its time to throw a vid up for us! ;)

Will it work if you just bend the tab under the needle and seat?

Side draft or down draft? Maybe give us a run down of the research you have done!?

All of my carby turbo days were using the stock pickup. The return into the tank is only really a breather though so I t pieced into the filler neck breather. Remember you're not always going to be at full throttle and fuel usage so the surge tank will help somewhat making up for the small pickup ;)

Draw through or blow through?