Taz_Rx

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Should just buy this fw.... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/66286-clutch-plate-help-please-21-spline-k50/page__pid__659494#entry659494 Might encourage him to go the way I think he should!.....or you buying mhmills setup?

Both fly wheels have the same od, the 180/200mm is just the clutch plate contact area diameter. ;)

W50, t50 and k50 are all the same length so you just need to change the spline on the gb end. I prefer exedy's. The draw back with the w58 etc (over w50) is cost and the fact you need to convert to hydraulic.

The bearing is just pressed onto the retainer, but the retainer should have little wire clips holding it to the fork. If I were you I would be getting rid of the custom plate now. I know you're not thinking about the next clutch change now but when it does come time you (or the next owner) is going to be in the same situation! You should pretty much be able to find a 180mm fw for free locally, then you're just going to have to spend around $40 on getting it faced. Compare that to whatever extra you get charged for the custom plate. I've been pushing well over 100rwkw though a hd button 180mm kit for years now without any issues. Btw the reason your bellhousing has been hacked just in front of the fork hole is to make clearance for the 200mm pressure plate. The bellhousing was never designed to accommodate a pressure plate that size. So whoever put that 5k and gb together should have just swapped the 200mm out for a 180mm and it would be a simple off the shelf clutch kit and you wouldn't have a hacked bh!

Yes a 200ml flywheel will fit in the bell housing.... But the pressure plate (for say an ae71 kit) will not - i tried and failed. I've been running well over 100rwkw through my t50 for years now with no problem. Maybe just try a new clutch and t50. Otherwise look into a k-w50 setup, which is also still cable rather than k-w56/7/8 etc

That is a k-t50. The 21 spline clutch on the exedy website should fit with a stock 3/4k flywheel. If you have a 200ml flywheel it means someone has got a custom plate made up. Swap to a 180ml flywheel and just use the normal 21 spline kit!

If its wheel spinning really easy then you've got a broken axle not a broken diff.

Had a look at the new gtx turbos this morning, tbh I don't think the compressor housing would fit down next to the chassis rail! The t28 one it pretty damn close as it is. Noticed they now make a disco potato with a stock sized t28 front cover though, for straight swappage on an s15...that would fit!

I paid $8 for my last em30 at bursons! :P Try using a 3/8" or 1/4" 14mm socket, I've never had one not fit!

Yes its possible to swap k40 housings....and k50 housings, but you can't put a k40 housing on a k50 which was the question.

You'll get half way through that manifold and regret it! :P beem there, done that lol

Look for a 5k first and only resort to boring if you really had to. 5k's have thicker side walls and some extra external bracing so a genuine 5k will always be stronger than a bored 4k. The boring will also require a full rebuild so add another $400+ for that!

Considering what you've told us a 4k or 5k with a manual gearbox would be a good introduction to back yard mechanics. Learn to walk before you try running! :)

After the comp raise its obviously going to need a re-tune, but we'll also look at activating the closed loop control.....which I'll have to get an o2 sensor for.

As my tuner reiterated last week he has never heard my engine ping, and that's with >15 psi and a heap of timing. If we got to the point with 8.5:1 that out was starting to ping a bit that's when I would look into the water/meth more. I do plan on running around 25 psi when I get a turbo reliably capable of it.

What c/r did you used to run darren?

Csx's are the top spec models and usually have some kind of pin striping. Did you drive past me today?

So haven't updated this is a little while..... Did a gasket change a few weeks back, also swapped the .64 rear housing back on the T28, as apposed to the .48. Comes on maybe 300-500rpm later but pulls a lot harder through the top end. The cam also seems to be a bit more generous in the top end with the .64. Since the rebuild and re-tune I've never really been happy with the fuel economy. I've had a good play with some of the ECU setting like the 'over-run fuel cut' and decelerate enleanment but hasn't made a great deal of difference. After having a good chat to my tuner the other day I decided the main problem is the low compression, which is currently at 7:1. Although it drives fine the motor just isn't overly efficient...... off boost anyway, and is just working a bit harder than it really should do. Looking back the fact I had to put around 20% extra fuel into the original map to get it to run after the rebuild was probably a pretty good indicator! If the car was just a weekend warrior it probably wouldn't be such a problem, but considering it is my daily driver I need to find a good balance between outright power, drivability and economy. Thinking I'll up the compression to around 8.5:1 by giving the head a shave and re-tune after I've got my tax return done. If some time down the track I get another turbo and start running some proper boost as planned I still have things like water/meth at my disposal to compensate for the slightly higher C/R.

Do you have to cut the socks down for them to fit? You're not supposed to! I had some cut down ones on a 48 ida on a 13bbp....at full throttle they would get sucked into the trumpets seriously reducing the flow. And did you have the springs in them?

Independent rear suspension. Can be done...... but a hell of a lot of work.

A t50 would be a downgrade on a w series box. Would be just so simple to convert to w50a others have suggested....you could even find just a box and use your existing bell housing!

R33's have irs. Diffs are only really loud when the bearings wear out. A reconditioned diff (whatever it is) should be virtually silent!

Hope the match porting wasn't done by the same guy who did the head I got off you, man that was a rough job! Oh and did you lap the valves? Happy to lend some sticks and compound if not and head is still off.

Rear shock change is about an hours work for back yard mechanic. Just remove the back seat to access the top of them.