Taz_Rx

No they don't! There's a large lump on the bottom of the k50 housing to accommodate the extra cogs.

5k's use torque to yield bolts standard, so maybe not the best option as if you ever take the head off again you'll just end up in the same boat.

I honestly believe its not so much a matter of a power limit the gearbox can handle but the way in which the gearbox is treated. If you go dumping or kicking the clutch or smashing it from gear to gear you're more likely to do more damage than just a general increase in power. You can even get off the line rather quickly with a bit of know how while still being kind to the box, ie slipping the clutch a bit which pre loads the drive train and also helps build boost. Tbh I've wrecked more k40's by running welded diffs than with any of my k turbo setups.

Just waiting on a retune which I'll hopefully get done next week and then I'll really see, already noticed slightly better fuel economy though a bit less throttle input though.

Not too shabby....what sort of torque you making?

Definately investigate prefab coilover kits out of the states then....yanks love them and there is lots of off the shelf stuff available. Wilwood even do a bolt on kit!

By your grammar i'm guessing you're not an aussie, but if you are and for other members I've found the cheapest place to get oil (and some other things) is super cheap auto! The last bottle of castrol stuff I bought was cheaper retail than my local bursons wholesale price. Buying power!

Well spacers are actually illegal if they are factory fitted. Those falcon rtv utes have them as well.

Carters don't really need to be mounted below the tank level as they're self priming. Much nicer pumps than say holleys imho.

Sprung. They use to do solid one as well but discontinued them about the time I got mine..... Speaking of which I've had it for about 5 years now!

I don't mind it now I'm well used to it, but I did have a button clutch in my mazda for years before getting it so was already used to them. Pretty tight and grabby especially when married to a lightened flywheel but not as badly on/off as they're sometimes may out to be. On the other hand another launy rc member put one behind his k-t and really hated it. he ended up getting the full face hd plate instead within a week iirc.

Exedy also do a button clutch. That's what I have behind mine and has held over 120-130kw

12.9 wasn't obviously k powered though i assume?

What engine us that mark? Side exit vent and 4 bolts holding tappet cover down! :hmm:

Not really, everything is pretty quick and easy. Forgot to put adjusting tappets on the list though. Radiator takes about 5 minutes and all oil, water and fuel lines are speedflow.

I've done 14.5 with an estimated 120rwkw. Will be interesting to see how an auto compares.

That's pretty much a lazy 2 hours with a couple of smoke breaks....interruptions from missus and kid, you know the deal lol. I got've all the manifolds, turbo and dump pipe already bolted up to the head, its so much easier to do it that way than in the car when you've got the head off. The stud next to number 3 ex port is an absolute bitch. So my list really just consist of: Drop head etc on and torque down Get under it and do the oil return, 1 water line and the exhaust Couple of fuel lines Wiring loom on Cooler and intake pipes Radiator in and fill Buy new plugs and put them in knock 5 degrees out of the whole map until I get it tuned Start! ....so really less than an hour solid. LOL

The b = twin carbs A 2tc is only single carb

So I've got about 2 hours worth of work to get it back on the road. Head has gone from 33cc to 23cc chambers. Hopefully get it tuned some time next week.

Is it a 5k head with hydro lifters or something else?

Make that any toyota let alone ke ;)

Tried giving the starter a whack with a hammer while holding the key on start?

Just do a google image search for 2tg and see if that's what you remember seeing.

I've bought individually nuts from a wheel shop a few times before for between $2 & $4!

The rubber stuff the window slides is called "flocking". If you search on that you should be able to find an old thread of mine, I got some from rare spares I from memory noted what car out was from as they didn't have stuff specifically for a corolla. As for the heater controls, I doubt they would snap. Stock your head under the dash and follow the cables, you might find one has come unclipped. What exactly makes you think one isn't working anyway?