demuire

Oh how I love that description. It's so... descriptive!

Ah, for some reason I thought there was a LitIon option for it, guess not. You can get some fairly high powered NiMh's from Jaycar. 2-3 sets over 1000 photos is pretty good battery life.

irokin: In low light no matter what camera you have (digital or otherwise) you'll probably need a tripod and a longer exposure time... Most lower end cameras don't have an option to take a battery pack, or a battery "cartridge" (basically a holder that looks like the original LitIon battery, except you load it with AA's). If I'm not mistaken (and irokin should know this) the Canon Axx series cameras (like A80 for instance) DO have this option. The Minolta Ax series does too, and can even take 2 LitIon batteries at once.

Jamie should know. He's looked into this before.

From Medicine_Man's suggestions: - Don't be fooled by digital zoom, it's a gimmick and you might as well crop it in photoshop. - Most lower end digital cameras don't work well at night due to small sensor size and non-optimal processing which leads to noise and other crappy results. Also cameras that only have an LCD or use an EVF tend to be rather crappy at night (can't see what you're looking at) except for a select few like the Minolta A series, where the EVF is boosted in low light for useability. - CompactFlash memory is the cheapest. That said, "normal" CF isn't as fast as SD, and "high speed" CF is almost as expensive as SD. Re batteries: AA is nice, LitIon is also nice. LitIon tends to last longer and is lighter, but like Irokin said, if you run out of battery you're stuffed. Helps if you have a spare, but they aren't always cheap. If you're going to be using AA, make sure you get rechargeables, they last a whole lot longer than normal alkalines. With AA's I usually carry at least 3 sets.

Wow Tom, not asking for much are you??? Okay, first things first - it looks like you want a camera that does EVERYTHING, and for not so much money. Unfortunately, such a camera does not exist. Based on what I think your priorities are (which may of course be completely wrong), have a look at the Canon IS S1. It's under a grand, has a very good lens on it (for a consumer camera), and has enough manual features to keep most people happy. Obviously won't be anywhere near as fun as your SLR, but you can only get what your budget will allow. It can also take unlimited videos, as long as you have memory. It's reasonably small too, and I *think* you can get underwater housings and stuff for it too. The only thing it doesn't do well is take filters etc, to do that you have to get the hood ($50). A few of the Fuji ones would probably also fit the bill (like the S5000), however I've used the S7000 and didn't like it. Also, if the budget will allow, maybe check out the Panasonic FZ10. BIG zoom, lots of awesome features, the only drawback as far as I could tell was the memory storage (SD cards or something), and apparently it doesn't work all that well in low light. This camera is a fair bit bigger than the S1 though, probably about the same size as your MZ50. Anyways, have a look at those models, if they don't suit tell us why and maybe we can fine tune your requirements :P

Tom: Don't be fooled by the video function on digital cameras, 95% of the time they're basically a gimmick. Rather similar to cameras in phones. They work, but they're pretty damn average. If you want to take video, get a video camera.

Actually, no. The cheapest digital SLR on the market at the moment is the Canon 300D, and that's approx $1300 with a shitty lens, and not much else. The Z series KM's are pretty good featurewise, but feel very cheap. The A's are much nicer, but a lot more expensive. Tom: What are you looking for in a camera? And what sort of budget are you looking at? How do you intend to use it? Coming from an MZ50 I would assume you probably want a camera that will allow you a decent amount of creativity etc? Or are you looking for a point-and-shoot camera you can basically take to parties and snap away with? How important is size etc? What sort of photography do you do? So many questions, all very important to help you decide what is right for you.

Yay, Rob is coming :P

Yes at this stage.

Umm... Okay, lets see if I actually remember anything useful. +B1, +B = IGN Power FC = Circuit opening relay (for fuel pump) KNK = knock sensor (under intake manifold) VCC, VTA, IDL, E2 = TPS OX = oxygen sensor (on exhaust manifold) V-ISC = you don't need this STA = STA Power #10 = injectors 1, 3 #20 = injectors 2, 4 E1, E01, E02 = Earth IGF, IGT = Ignitor G1, G2, N2 = Distributor A/C = you don't need this W = check engine light SPD = you don't need this ELS2 = you don't need this BATT = Constant power Can't remember the rest.

We can probably request services of Haikal for the shoot, he has gear, he has talent. Nuff said.

I might have some AE86 springs, stock ones. They'll be too high, but if you don't mind cutting then they'll be fine. Can't remember. I think it was cost of Scorpion bushes + favour from friend with lathe. But really, you could cut it even with a stanley knife if you were keen enough. Oh yeah, the crush tube was the problem, you'll need to get one custom made up. If you buy from shop (only place I could find anything at all was GSA, they wanted something like $150 for them or some ridiculous amount) you'll pay a lot because it's not a common size. If you have friend with lathe you can get some made up. I forget how much I paid.

In Pinky I had XT130 struts with XT130 steering arms. In Hal I have RT132 struts (identical to XT130) with AE86 p/s arms. I'm using Scorpion control arms in Hal for more track, was using XT130 control arms in Pinky just because I had them, they look the same as KE55 ones. Scorpion ones are longer, you'll need a custom bush to fit it to a KE35, most definately similar in the KE20. Not hard to do. I can't fit any bigger than 6" wide rims under my guards, that's with not much clearance between strut and rim, and none at all between rim and outer guard.

Darn it, it's not a "coilover insert", hell I don't even know what a "coilover insert" is... If you want the sleeves, you can get them from Fulcrum. Motorsport Xtreme (or is it Xtreme Motorsport?) also sell them, but I think the ones they sell are steel as opposed to the alloy ones from Fulcrum. As to what other struts fit in a KE20, I have no idea.

Doesn't matter who has the biggest megapixel camera, as long as it's at least 2.1mp if the photo is good (ie no cropping, proper focus, recorded in the finest quality) you should be able to print up to A4 size without any problems. I have a 5mp 7x optical zoom Minolta diMage A1, and still learning to use it.

For anyone interested, Brake Parts Australia (where I get most of my brake bits) sells the P4872 for $78.65 inc GST. That's the price I got quoted over the phone, but every single time I've been there I've paid less than what they quote on the phone... Very strange, but I'm not complaining :P

I doubt the difference would be anything to really write home about. What's wrong with normal TA22 steering arms? Or are those really long as well? Also, have you actually checked that the taper on your ball joint is going to match the steering arm?

Well... Felix is right in all sense actually. He didn't specify that the car would rust first, or that the bolt would rust first, only that putting two different metals together will encourage corrosion, which it does in all cases. And anyhow, steel is fairly succeptible to corrosion, so unless your bolt is made of something worse (like magnesium - highly unlikely) then chances are your car will rust first.

Umm, what kind of "coilovers" are we talking about here? Because technically speaking, a Macpherson strut is a "coilover" setup. Or are we talking the sort of coilover that people frequently talk about that is height adjustable and uses small diameter springs? And yes, you also have to worry about what the kingpin inclination would be, but then again Ben is talking about bending that and getting it heat treated to get more neg camber, I have my concerns about this but he seems to think it will be just fine. And yes, caster is a good thing. Also helps if you keep with rubber control arm bushes (like Rob) because you can wind in more caster than if you use nolethane ones (like me).

Permatex 3 has an applicator? I bought some blue stuff, one was a Permatex and one was a Loctite and both just came in a simple tube with a plastic nozzle on the end? Ended up using a screw driver to smear it on (couldn't get the bead quite right using just the nozzle)

Doug: Pity... :P But like you said there'll be more motorkhanas...

I have photos of my car, I can take photos of other cars. I now have camera again (although still learning to use it) :P This photo from Queensland Challenge, taken my Mr :P with my new camera :P

Umm... Motorkhana has no nav. Although I guess if you mean to have Ben ride along with you so that you can get your car there, then that makes sense :P It's $30, you have to pre-enter by this Friday. You can pay on the day (but do arrange with Dennis beforehand, his number is in the Supp Regs), but you have to get your entry forms in by Friday.

Oh wow you can use Permatax no3 on ALL of that? Including the exhaust manifold? And there I was trying to buy all sorts of different "goo" for different things... :P