demuire

Clown: Can't seem to find them anymore...

Hmm, that's true. I suppose I'm looking for something reasonably generic (is there even such a thing...). I'd easily say that most of the events I do (motorkhana, autocross, khanacross) have speeds ranging from 0 - 120km/h, not many exceed that. One thing that does bother me with the stock gear ratios is that even with a 4.11 diff I was hitting the rev limiter reasonably often in motorkhanas (1st gear). I haven't had a chance to drive a motorkhana with the 4.77 yet, am reasonably sure I'll have to use 2nd gear, not sure if I'll be able to get away with just 2nd gear or if I'll have to keep shifting between 1st and 2nd (which would suck)

What on earth is a K3-ve head? Is this a Toyota engine?

Oh yeah, if it helps diagnosis at all, the vibrations generally become worse at higher speed, and appears to be worst at 80km/h and 110km/h. If I'm driving along at anywhere post 70km/h, and jump on the clutch, it vibrates very savagely. Come off the clutch, and it quietens down again.

Just reading up more about tailshafts etc, it *sounds* like maybe my tailshaft is out of balance, so it's been suggested to try rotating my tailshaft 90 degrees to the diff (and repeat until no more combinations) and see if that helps... With a tailshaft loop, how far behind the front uni should it be?

While up at Caloundra for Coastal Challenge and ARC last weekend, I was speaking to Tony (driver of TRD KE70), and he mentioned that he thought the stock gearbox ratios were more suitable to a 4.77 diff for rally and other similar sort of events that had a big variance in speed, and that the close ratio gearboxes were only really suitable for high speed stuff because of the huge 1st and 2nd gears. Or at least that's what I understood from our conversation anyway :) Does anyone (Rob?) have any opinions on this?

I once welded a spanner onto a sump plug. Unfortunately I can't weld for crap, so the spanner slipped off anyway :)

Yes, it stays on. I've just been told that there is such a device called an "electronic flasher unit", which is different to the one that came in my car in 1975... This is what I need.

Ah, so there's such a device called an LED flasher... :) Hmm, that entails rewiring, it's right on the edge of the "too hard basket" :)

Well, the bulbs don't blow *all* the time. Just random ones here and there. I think since I've gotten the car on the road I've replaced... 3 bulbs? All different ones. I think one indicator, and 2 of the front park lights. All of them were originally in the shell when I bought it, so who knows how old they are... No, flasher doesn't flash at all.

Got a bit tired of bulbs blowing, and went and got myself those cool LED bulbs for indicators. They look cool and all that, but... they don't quite work properly. I think it's cause they don't offer as much resistance (or maybe they don't draw as much power) as normal bulbs, but with them in, the indicator flasher doesn't flash... Is there any way to get around this?

Go so fast :)

I think I posted up photos of this car a few months ago

Also, look into getting an anti-tramp setup when you get your leafs done. With mine they put in half a leaf extra on the front half of the leaf pack. I'd steer clear away from slapper bars, they make for a very very harsh transition, almost like hitting the bumpstops. Great for a drag car (going in a straight line) as it slams the power to the ground, crap when you're coming around a corner.

Why? I *think* mine are inverted. If you just lower the car by resetting the leaves, you'll end up with rather flat looking leafs. Mine are almost flat, I've actually had my car raised slightly because the leafs were starting to invert. And yes, softer springs are easier to drive on, and easier on the kidneys. Also watch your front-rear ratio, I'm running 250/200, which seems to work for me. The car is set up actually quite oversteery and will hang the tail out with very little persuasion, there is very little understeer at all.

20v_ke35: There you go, wait a few days and SuperJamie will come to your rescue :)

20v_ke35: I think you will find that not many people here are going to be too enthusiastic to answer this question like this. Especially not "just for your quick reference". Use the search function, you'll find out what to do with your K engine before long.

Umm... I don't think the KE35 came with drum fronts anywhere around the world. Are you sure this is a KE35?

I don't think you can buy off-the-shelf springs to suit RT132 Corona struts in a KE55 Corolla, the lowered AE86 ones by Kings (KTFL-33) which is the sort you want will return your car to stock height, so if you want lower you'll have to get something lower than "lowered". Besides, I find the stock lowered AE86 ones a little soft for track work. I believe they are 125lb progressive. As a comparison, I'm running 250lb on the front of my car at the moment (which I recon works quite well with my current set up). Softer is easier to drive, though, more feedback and not as snappy.

I'm teaching on Saturday, so I'm out for 90% of the day :) And then probably washing the car in the night so that it looks presentable on Sunday!

KE35 has front drums??

Another kit I've got a Jaycar one, but the one that uses LED's (instead of the readout). I have absolutely no idea how accurate/inaccurate mine is, I suspect the latter is more correct.

Not quite. With an LSD both wheels will turn the same direction (like a locker). With an open diff they'll turn opposite directions. With an open diff yes, if you stop one wheel you can still turn the other (twice as fast as if both wheels were turning)

And what's wrong with that? :dance:

Looks awesome! :dance: