KE20Rally

Hi, Not sure if you have seen this: http://www.speerintl.com/#!celica-body-kit/c1ckq looks like it is all TTE reproduction parts from Makela Auto Tuning in Finland....I think the price would be pretty scary! Looking forward to following your build again. Cheers, Pete

Dollar for dollar, this may suprise you but a 3Tc will yield the highest power output....reasoning is because of our 3TC loving American friends. The old adage of you can't beat cubes wins over any 4age build (turbo and N/A), then there is the parts availability...everything is available from cams, head stud kits, valve train right through to a full CNC head if you so desire. Biggest problem with 2tg is cams and headstuds, you can't get them without spending $$$ (regrind cams in mho are crap as they are always a compromise) 3tc stuff is off the shelves in US of A, to get simalar power from a 4age you need to rev the crap out of it, and this brings its own issues, you need to change to shim under bucket , the bottem end needs to handle the revs added to that the drivability issues that come with a high reving engine build. Anyhoo, that is my 2c worth and if you go down that road, hit me up for some info. Pete

I found a picture that might interest you: I would also be interested in making some fibreglass panels for my KE20, I live in perth and have a professional fibreglass manufacturer that can produce the panels, I would be happy to pay a deposit and/or fee for the use of your molds. I also have a light bar similar to the one you bent if you are interested. Cheers, Pete

Hi Jay, No aviation for me, but I fly enough! I don't believe you need a a TE2x Xmember to fit a 2/3T enging into A KE2x, just modify the mounts, I can send you some pics or your welcome to come and have a look at my setup. Cheers, Peter

Only 2 camshaft gear failures :( unfortunatly the second one threw some shrapnel up the bore of number 1 which rendered the block u/s! my issue is not specific to N/A, anyone running the pushrod variation with an aftermarket cam may run into this issue, so hit me up if anyone is interested in 2/3TC builds, however if you are running a twin cam variation, you won't have this problem. Cheers, Pete

Hi Bruce, Always best to give Tony a call, my brother in law just ordered some bits and had no issues there as far as I know. Did you find a rocker lock? if not let me know as I think I have a few extra there, happy to put 1 in mail bag for you, just PM me your address. Cheers, Pete

I have a 3teu intake assembly in Perth I am thinking of selling, same as this one: http://www.toycrazy.net/tech/3tte/3tte.html Let me know if your keen. Cheers, Pete

Found the Crower Cam http://www.crower.com/camshafts/toyota-3tc-4-cyl-cam-7221.html Forgot to mention, always use a ZDDP additive like this http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=CC&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=159 Full bottle for break in, then half with every oil change! Cheers, Pete

I have a 2TC running 3T internals (small amount of clearancing required) 12:1 pistons and a heap of other mods in my KE20. The crossmember is standard KE20 with modified TA22 engine mounts, gearbox is T50 and the diff housing is TA22 with a TRD LSD. The following mods are a must if you are going to build a high power engine combo: - Dowel your flywheel crank, seen flywheel bolts break, trust me you do not want it to happen! - Rocker locks, high rpm/power will throw the rocker arms off -oil squirter on the bronze distributor gear you get made, I destroyed 2 engines before an elderly gentleman running a 2TC cheetah in Adelaide set me straight! Plus all the other standard engine building stuff that goes along with a strong engine. For parts and advice, you can't go past Tony @ www.theracingstore.com I have no affiliation, I ordered all my engine parts through him and he used to race TE27s in the USA. Cheers, Pete

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking Its called a few Things

See below for pistons, there was talk earlier about machining your block to increase compression ratio, IMO I would prefer to take the meat off the head, as once you start taking it off the block your pistons will sit proud of the block, and your pistons may foul with the head, as always, check your piston-head-valve clearances before final assembly.

Yep, 2t block with 3t crank/pistons/head, I am now running arias 12.1 comp pistons with a 296F schneider cam, pinged on 98 first time on dyno, had to switch to race fuel with that combo. Cheers, Pete

I had a similar Cam, standard pistons, twin webers and a fair amount shaved off the head (3mm) and no pinging. You will be ok as long as you put it on a dyno and check the tune, if you don't, you may end up rebuilding your engine again. Pinging is actually the sound of 2 flame fronts hitting each other in the combustion chamber, one from the spark plug, and one from a hotspot in the combustion chamber (piston crown, carbon deposit etc), this gives instantaniously (spelling?) high combustion pressure, thus squeezing the oil from between crank and rod bearing, "spotting" the crank and eventually causing a bearing to spin, also melts pistons! Number 1 rule when modifying engines "get a dyno tune/check" Pete Cheers, Pete

If you decide to stay with the standard 3TC, there are alot of aftermarket parts available for these engines in the states, then all you need to do is decide upon turbo or naturaly asperated depending on how much power you would like, ~140 hp@ the wheels is obtainable in NA build, however if you want alot more turbo can put you around ~200hp ATW without too much fuss. As with most things car related, "how fast do you want to spend" I'm also in perth if you would like to discuss. Cheers

Yep, you will get away with doing that on a "standard" engine, replace your cam, remove/replace your flywheel (read stretching your flywheel bolts) increase your compression, replace valve springs, buzzing ur engine to 10k, make more power at high rpm etc, then try doing 2 days around QR without doing the mods suggested and then come back and post what failed. I am just providing information on what I have learnt from 15 years of motorsport and engine building, building a road/race engine as this guy is doing requires a bit of work to ensure the life of the engine is greater than a few hours. Cheers

Hitting 8k regularly is a bit differant to rally/race, where the engine barely drops below 5k and is held at full noise for 20-25 mins at a time, these engines are tough, they just need to be built right, I have had to do 2 rebuilds due to camshaft failures, seen a friends 2TG throw a flywheel (identical crank/flywheel as 2T) and was told by a few people about the rocker locks. Build em tough and you will have years of fun!

I will try and give you a guide to building a stronger engine, I have built a 2T/3t rally engine with 135hp@ the wheels, not huge but the torque is very nice. The standard rods are strong, and will do the job if prepped correctly, linished, shot peened, resized, but by the time you did this you could have spent your money on eagle rods. Failure points, there are 3 main areas specific to the 2/3T engines: 1. Flywheel bolts, it is not unusual for T engines to shear these, replace the bolts with ARP bolts and get your crank/flywheel dowled. 2. Rocker arms, you will throw these off at high rpm, you need a set of aluminium rocker locks. www.theracingstore.com 3. Distributor gear, with aftermarket cams and high rpm you WILL strip a distributor/cam gear and throw hardened steel throughout your engine damaging the bore, solution, bronze distributor gear, external oil squirter on the gear and a ZDDP additive to your oil. All the rest is standard engine building stuff, crome-alloy pushrods, head/main studs, vernier cam gear, oil cooler etc. If you have any more questions, ask. Cheers

Hi All, Time to go racing again, this one is held in Donnelly about 3.5 hrs south of Perth if anyone is interested. The racing starts from 1315 and will go into the night, this time there will be more cars including WRX's, Evos, and a whole range of other cars including the usual array of corollas ranging from my KE20 right through to a some nifty FWD rollas. More info here: http://www.rallywa.c...=103&Itemid=187 And a google map link: http://maps.google.c...&mra=ls&t=m&z=8 If anybody would like to get hands on, the club is always looking for officals, and if anyone would like to get their hands dirty, we are looking for service crew, PM me if you are interested. As usual entry to the service park and spectator points are free. Cheers, Pete

Yep, that would be me!

Thanks for coming up Ken, the KE70 is running an SR20DET, so he was running ineligable, but would have been lots of fun, we had the KE20 running 4th outright until the rough roads bounced the ignition relay out of its base and lost about 15mins in the last stage, my sister came in second navigating in the sprinter, and unfortunatly my brother-in-law in the KE30 kept throwing an altenator belt. Thanks again for coming I will post whenever future rallys are on in Perth. cheers, Pete

Hi All, If anybody is interested, there will be a rally in Jarrahdale on November 12, I will have my 2T powered ke20 out there, other cars such as a 2tg ke25, 2tg ke30, at least one sprinter and possibly a couple of other corollas (as well as datsuns, escorts, charades etc). Cars will be at the service park from about 930am, and racing starts at around 1200. There is no entry fee for the service park, and a free spectator point is available to the general public. More info available here: http://www.rallywa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&catid=27&id=22

KE20 on gumtree, looks like its in reasonable condition! http://perth.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-Vehicles-Motorbikes-Parts-cars-TOYOTA-COROLLA-W0QQAdIdZ323091987 Cheers, Pete

Hi all, I have been cruising the forums for a while, so thought I had better register!! Name: Pete Rides: KE20 Rally car, plus a few others!!. Occupation: Technician An old corolla bloke might have seen my car before!! If you have any questions about 2/3TC race engines, fire away and I will do my best to answer! Cheers, Pete