ForzaAE92

In the late AE92's that came with a 7AFE, the ecu sat in the cabin underneath the centre of the dashboard, forward of the shifter. Hope that helps!

Just be aware, the A/C compressor and bracket are different between 4AFE and 4AGE. You can't bolt a 4age a/c compressor to the bracket off a 4AFE, the bolt spacing is different. There are slight differences in the hard lines to/from the compressor between the two as well.

Just remember that the rated figures for the fans are usually free air delivery, and not the actual figure when drawing air through the radiator and anything else in front.

The workshop manuals are the same regardless of what type of 16V head. Only differences are the TVIS with a differently shaped inlet manifold.

The factory intake is pretty much fine, there isn't much to gain except some induction noise. Exhaust wise, a different rear muffler will give it a nice rasp. Lowering the car will improve the handling to a point, provided you don't go too low. A set of low springs will give you a 1-1.5 inch drop in the front, and about 1 inch drop in the rear. Match them with a nice set of new shocks, and you'll have a sweet handling rolla'. In a nutshell: A good set of tires & wheels, lower springs & shocks, will completely transform the driving experience :) A healthy 4AFE has more than enough torque and power to have fun with.

Wow. I'm glad I waited for the page to load properly :) New rods and pistons look great.

Keen to come along for a rollaclub WA cruise :)

First of all, what size rims have you got? Have you rolled the guards at all? I would steer away from cheap coilovers, I have personally seen 3 coilovers struts fail when pushed moderately. Cheap being less than $800 per set. A good set of coilovers will set you back around $1200-1300, offer adjustable damping, adjustable camber, really easy adjustment of ride height, and sweet handling characteristics. IF you don't want to spend that sort of cash, or wish to stay with lowering springs and struts, read on. To retain some sort of nice handling characteristics, you would need to run a "short stroke strut" when using springs that give more than 20mm of drop. Otherwise the struts will be almost at full compression, and they will hit the limits of their travel on medium bumps. Just remember that the lower you go, the less suspension travel you are going to have. Avoid King Springs and Pedders like the plague if you wish for a nice handling car. They don't lower the corners evenly, with the heights being up to 10-15mm out on each corner. Decent spring brands are the likes of; TRD (hard to get is most cases), IMAC, Eibach, Tanabe Springs, Koni. A full set will end up costing around $450-500 including postage. Decent shocks include brands like; Tokico, Koni, Bilstein, and KYB. A full set will normally cost upwards of $500. Almost all of the shock/spring manufacturers above have proven themselves in street/track setups. A decent spring/shock combo will see you getting into coilover prices anyway. Do it once, and do it right. Otherwise it isn't worth doing and will probably be a serious risk to your life. My 2c.

like threads like these, they never fail to give me a laugh! A few I have: "curry powder" I "late for uni" "FOUR!" "nice car. Oh, wait."

Spotted a sunburnt orange KE70 turning onto Farrington Road off Karel Ave around 4:30pm this evening. Plates were XXROLA or something similar. Looked pretty clean for a KE70 :)

Short answer, No. Long answer, probably not unless you have good welding and fabrication skills. However, 06 WRX seats should be a direct bolt up.

Well for starters, all oils have the same viscosity at operating temperature. Does the engine use much oil at the moment? If so, a thicker oil will help stabilise and lower the oil consumption rate. As for best oil, if you have the money Mobil 1 is the "best" oil.

Well at least its a step up from commodores... :blinks:

What grinds my gears? How overpriced EVERYTHING is in WA, compared to all the other states. Its a bloody rip-off. Take an average condition AE92 sx for example... In other states but WA, I see them advertised regularly for the $1200-2000 mark, with 280,000-300,xxx km's on them, and fairly neat trim, etc etc. In WA, a vehicle in the same condition goes for $3500-XXXX. Why? WHY? Grrrrrrr, end rant/.

My first car was a 91' Barina, 1.3L of carby, single cam nothing-ness. Used to get rubbish fuel economy whilst on my P's, till I wrote it off. No pics. Second car was this: My 89' AE92. 4AFC power, but still my first twincam! Loved it, hated it when the gearbox blew taking out all gears but first and reverse, sat for 1 month till I replaced the box. Sold it to my dad, now my little bro is driving it. Yes, I miss it :( Current car is a 97' EL foulcan. Ok for a daily/uni spec, but I'm really hanging out to go back to a Corolla! Or almost any toyota for that matter :P