oldie

Ok,so more work on the rust today,maybe they should be called rustarolla's,both rear wheel arches repaired,still the petrol tank lid (been putting that off as long as I can) and a couple of other spots I found when attacking it with a flapper disc. Now the plan is to fit front guard lips over them like I did on my last one but with that one I never got around to fixing the inner wheel arches,well,there all done first on this one,if anyone has a front passenger guard to sell,doesnt matter if its crappy,I only want the lip,please let me know.Have run out of steel and cutting discs so have to go and stock up ready for the next attack.

Well,3rd time around,some may have seen I advertised a KE70 for a bloke in another area,well,I ended up buying it from him myself,$200. Think I paid too much really as it has 210,000k's,auto,a/c,interior is clean,boot,petrol flap and wheel arches are all rusted as per usual for a KE70 BUT it had 3 doors missing,boot lid missing,bonnet missing,damaged guard drivers side and no grill. Well,Ive got into it over the last 2 days and cleaned it up pretty well,a/c switch is missing but everything else seems ok at present. Raided the car at pick a part kilsyth and got all the panels I needed so that added $300 to the purchase price,they are all fitted up now but still missing a drivers window and winder mechanisms for drivers door and rear door drivers side (can anyone help). Spent today checking out the a/c and fixing rust,put power to the a/c and it still works and was even cold,then attacked the rear wheel arch drivers side,flared it out mildly and it collapsed from rust,as I expected it too,cut out the rubbish and replaced with new steel and welded it all up,looks good now,inside guard and outer,only a mild flare but easy to extend it now if I want to by just welding a single thickness steel lip to the new edge. Cleaned up around the fuel flap,its a mess,not sure yet how to attack it,have a couple of ideas and have to do the flare on the passenger side,then the boot edges and I want to remove the key lock and fit a solenoid to the boot lock,then I'm done.Haven't decided about paint yet,want to try and get it clean and on rego,then things will be easier to do for me! Pics are a hassle but will try to get some up when I remember..

thanks,now just have to find the wiring and a switch. I have just bought this ke70,almost sight unseen and I def. paid too much I think after getting it home. It is an '84 model,usual rust,has 210,000k's,auto,a/c,reasonable interior,starts,runs and drives BUT it does not have 3 doors,a boot or bonnet or a grille (any donations greatly accepted).Paid $200,reckon I should have only paid half of that,or free to take away,anyway,Ive done the deed so will just get on with it now amongst my other jobs/projects.

On a ke70,with 4k engine,auto and a/c,where is the switch located to turn the a/c on and of? Looking at a ke70,as above,has a/c but can't find anywhere to turn it on or off to check it although it looks like once upon a time there may have been a switch or something at the far left hand end of the environmental control panel (fan speed,vents etc etc),there is a hole there with nothing in it,any ideas?

Guess it all comes down to what your building,if its a modified road car,maybe starts at $800 and works its way up depending on complexity,street rods and ICV I can easily see costing in the $1000's. The performance and custom car fraternity are a soft touch because we don't have the political clout to say that enough is enough and have anyone seriously listen to us! Think about that guy that got in to politics in the last election through the motor vehicle lobby,has anyone heard a peep out of him or his supporters since? We do have the strength of numbers but just can't get it going well enough to be a force to be reckoned with..

Well,that says a lot doesnt it,you ask for a rear wheel drive corolla,you get offered a rear wheel drive corolla,one of the most iconic models around and you have to ask "what model is it",so what made you ask for corolla's?

Complications tend to arise due to dickheads who do the wrong thing and kill themselves or others AND the desire for govt. departments to make money BUT I think that Vic. is still more lenient than some states! Good luck with the questionbs,hope you get the answers you want/need...

Replaced the coil and the resistor,problem gone!

Firstly,it is my belief that in Victoria,if you upgrade an engine with capacity increase of 20% or less of the largest engine option available for that particular model,then an engineering certificate is not required. Honestly,your safest route of action is to simply call a vic roads authorised engineer and ask the question, there are lists of them on the internet and I think vic roads web site,it doesn't cost you for a call like this,the costs start once you begin the project.There are a lot of things that need to be complied and many that don't matter so you really need to have all your plans/facts together in your head when you speak to them. I believe that in general terms,certificates can run you from $800 up. http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/SafetyAndRules/SaferVehicles/LicensedVehicleTesters/VehicleAssessmentSignatoryScheme.htm

Any ideas anyone,I'm keen to get this sorted and start my morris for the first time in several years. ps- the coil and the ballast resistor are both at least 3 years old or even more and have not been used in that time.

Any advice please and feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. I'm wiring up the ignition system to a 4k,it is my understanding that they use 12 volt to start and then run on 9 volt through the ballast coil,(12 volt in and 9 volt out to the main coil in run mode). I have 12 volt to the primary of the ballast and then the lead out (I'm assuming its 9 volt) goes to the positive of the main coil. Can anyone suggest as to why,when I put the 12volt to the resistor,with the outlet side connected to the + of the main coil,the resistor gets hot and starts to smoke? I'm assuming either the coil or ballast is faulty but would appreciate any opinions.Thanks.

Thanks Reed,I do actually have that but it hasnt helped me to much!

Thanks for the futher info,unfortunately my son bought this as a bitser to put together and finish,was engineless so bought a 2T,backyard,no warranty so don't know what will happen yet.Currently,the wiring advice doesnt really gell with what I have,the car is apparently a south african import originally but all I can do is fiddle and see what happens,wish there was someone with a TA22 in melbourne that I could check out,would just clarify things a little more for me,once I get it started I will be a happy chappy,bodywork doesnt phase me but sorting out other peoples screw ups and lack of care to attention does,anyway,I'm sure I'll be asking for more help and as I said,anyone in melbourne have a TA22 Id love to have a quick look.Thanks and happy new year to all.

thanks,that will get me started,will assume the black to be earth for moment and see what happens.

Hi there,need a bit of wiring info for a TA22 Celica. I'm rebuilding the car that my son tore to pieces and trying to sort out all the things that I didnt remove so therefore don't know where they went. Engine has been swapped to a 2T with twin carbs,extractors and a very hot head and cam to go in later. Issue at the moment is just trying to sort out some loose wires on the drivers side of the engine bay,a black and yellow,think this is oil pressure switch,a single thick black with one of those terminals on the end that part is cut of so you can sort of just slide it under a bolt head,I'm thinking its an earth of some type but would like confirmation and finally two yellow wires,they are together in the loom but have seperate terminals,where too??? Next,originally a single carb,now twins,what color was the wire to the idle solenoids,each of the twins has one but I can't seem to find a power supply for them in the original loom. This will get me started so any help appreciated,thanks....

"Damp Valve"!,shove a wet rag under the rocker cover,that'll keep it damp!

Considered fitting 2 but was told it would probably blow out by the exhaust shop. The flange plate appears to be flat but having said that it has had a new custom bent engine pipe welded into the original flange plate so maybe it has distorted a little. I did fit it with sealant both sides so guess I will just have to wait and see when the rest of the system gets fitted.The 4k is in a morris minor and there is not much free space to play around in,very tight so will see how things go... thanks for the reply.

What sort of gasket should be used between the exhaust manifold flange and the engine pipe flange on a 4k? I bought one from an exhaust shop but it seems to be to thin to me. It has a 65mmOD that fits nicely in the step of the exhaust manifold but it appears to me to be not enough protruding from the face of the flange and when you bolt the 2 pipes together they appear to be almost touching without proper clamping on the gasket. It appears to be made of some sort of composite gasket material impregnated with what look like metal rings and as said,quite thin,maybe between 4-6mm.

Ok-less than 800kg,3 times original mass/turbo or supercharged 2.5 times mass so max 2.4ltr for N/A engine 800-1100 is 4 times original mass/turbo or supercharged 2.75 times mass over 1100kg is 5 times the mass/turbo or supercharged 3.0 times the mass and even this is not definite,you still need the engineers approval for the engine you wish to use

ammended-see below

If your serious about being legal then do not fit chopped springs,do as suggested above,a good set of lowered springs and custom shocks.don't quote me,do your own research for your own state but I think that legally you must have either 80 or 100mm of clearance to the lowest part of the underside of the car,fully loaded.

lighten the flywheel and yes you get it to rev free'er(?spelling) but you lose torque (momentum) that is created by the heavier flywheel.

just an automated response,anyone types the word m.i.n.t without the full stops and it prints overrated,just a default setting,no one is being offensive but in fact complimentary

My son drives one of these,treats it like absolute shit,never had a tune or a service,its rough but just keeps on going and going and going!

Agreed,no way is it to be regards as an easy out for a POS car and most def. a priviledge that should be appreciated and respected as enough people are screwing things up for car enthusiasts at the moment,don't need more help!