oldie

something else to consider,if it hasnt been run for 25 years the bores are probably dry and has little or no compression.try putting a little bit of 2 stroke oil down each cylinder through the plug holes,turn it over a little without the plugs then refit the plugs and try again. I am of course assuming that you have spark at the plugs but if you don't then yes you may have the coil connected wrong and yes,old fuel does go of a bit but not like unleaded,try dropping a bit of fresh fuel down the carb,not to much,just to see if it fires.fuel pump diaphram could also be up s++t creek.hope some of this may help..

For anyone that is interested,as at 1pm today there is at pick-a-part in Kilsyth (Melbourne Eastern Suburbs) a flat front ke70,very average white paint but has all flat front panels still fitted,no visible rust, no damage. Probably wont last long before it gets picked over or damaged and no idea what the panels etc. will cost but as I said,as of 1pm today it was there..

can get expensive,time consuming and very frustrating trying to sort out stupid little niggles but the point is you really just have to pick a place to start and then work your way through the simple things first then dig a bit deeper.hope it sorts itself out soon for you..

Just picking up on the point you said about the centre pin of the distributor cap being worn flat-aren't these pins meant to be spring loaded and extend out quite a way so that they exert pressure on the top contact of the rotor button,you didnt mention,I don't think,whether this pin springs in and out on your cap,if it doesnt then I would suggest also a new cap as it is probably worn to far down to be effective.I realise that you said it will start and idle ok so this may be irrelevant but just thought I would pop it out there for thought..

Darker exhaust on low revs sounds like running rich,maybe start looking at carby,choke etc.

I can't see why they would suggest to you that you deregister the other car,thats just losing them money. Regards your other question,I would assume that the person doing the RWC would write the engine number down on the certificate and when you book the rego appointment they would check this against the actual car and possibly your proof of ownership of the engine in now and where it came from but thats only a guess and not based on any knowledge or experience of Tassie.

I like the looks of the 2tg,ok,it may be a bit of a slug compared to its newer cousins but I still like it!

Personally,I think that you could possibly get away with it if you say the right things. As far as the actual roadworthy test is concerned I don't think it would really matter.But,when it comes to presenting it for rego,if thats what you have to do in Tassie (Idont know how it works there)they would probably cross reference the number and find it allocated to another vehicle,then ask questions. To me,the easiest thing to say would be that yes,this engine is out of another registered car that you own (have proof of ownership for that car with you) but that you have removed it to place in this vehicle as you are replacing the engine in that with another better condition one.Hope you understand what I mean,it may work,may not,I guess you could always ring them and ask!

Lube Mobile used to offer an injector cleaning service on car where they would disconnect the fuel supply and feed through some sort of cleaner from a pressurised system that they had on board their truck,don't know how good it is or if they still do it but you could ask if you were interested..

Congrats,so your on the road now!

rims are cheviot 13x7 and tyres are 175x70R13

nothing wrong with those pics,good size and good detail..

just a couple of pics to keep things going!the outside arches of the rear guards are finished,courtesy of ke70 front lips but I still have to repair the inner arches as they were quite rusty also....

Please,DO NOT drill out the crush tubes unless you are prepared to weld in new ones to suit your new bolt size(not difficult),they are there for a very good reason.

also need to unscrew the metal rod that braces the front of your guard(just in front of the front wheel) of the body if it is still there.

when Ive made appointments for a car to be regoed over the phone the dumbarses wanted to know every single thing about it,told me to bring all sorts of papers,proof of ownership,receipts etc etc.When I got there all that happenned was a guy came out from behind his desk,checked chassis/engine numbers and went away I got my papers,paid the bill and was of.The hardest part is screwing your new plates on!

Not quite sure what you mean by going through the pits at Vic roads.I have gained rego on many cars I have bought that were unregistered and all you need from my memory is a current RWC certificate and proof of ownership,make an appointment for them to check the engine number/chassis number etc (yes you have to front up with your car to vic roads inspection point,either trailer it or get an unregistered vehicle permit,about $70 from Vic roads)pay your money and get your plates.Keep in mind that I am talking about an unmodified car,if your car is modified then it is a different process regards compliance etc. Noticed that you said it passed rwc less than 2 weeks ago,I think that Vic RWC is only valid for 14 days so if you have not presented to vic roads within that time you will have to get a new RWC issued.Also,as said above,you have to make an appointment with vic roads to have your vehicle checked (engine and chassis number) and that will cost you as well.

I HATE people who think that bog is the answer to all the worlds rust repair problems,cover it with a little bit of rusty old tin,screw it in with some rusty screws and bog the sh#t out of it and its still not even the right shape!! My bitch for the week..

+1 for Redwarf's explanation,that is also my understanding. Now,having said that,I absolutely hate it when I see people speeding up to take the space in a merge situation like that and have been known to force my way in,not proud of it but sometimes enough is enough!!!

Progress is friggin slow!Replaced the drivers door so now nearly all front is red,rest is black.Cut a set of arches of some ke front guards for the rears but have to do some metal repair before I can fit them but held them up in place and they look quite good but think I'll have to do a little redesigning at the lower ends to get them to sit well. Still haven't done the rear axle/diff yet,must try to get onto that,then it will just be body work and paint for the moment till it has reg then may look at other options/mods etc.This little 4k has 320,000+ k's on it but the motor still starts almost first time every time and its not really that noisy,tappet noise etc. Will drop in again probably with some pics when I have the arches done and for those that are interested,yes,the morris is still moving along slowly,finished fitting the rear suspension and axle,now working on the front torsion bar suspension... Like I said,splitting time and money between two cars can be frustrating/difficult at times but its all good in the end.

Do not buy a feroza,I can tell you from personal experience that they are a slow and noisy,parts are hard to find.

Where are you located? don't know if it will help but about 3 weeks ago now there was a ke70 high roof wagon at pick-a-part in Kilsyth, Victoria. It may still be there and worth looking at,unsure about the condition but it did have rust.

Agreed,web site values often hold little relevance to the ACTUAL value of a vehicle,especially classics.Shannons certainly would be a good place to start making enquiries and remember that the value of something is only what people are prepared to pay,no matter what you think its worth,not fair I know but what you gonna do about it!

Carsguide gives a value for used 67 toyota corolla 4 sp manual 1100cc as private sale between $1130 and $1380.hope that helps a little.