shiryo

what offset?

Welcome to the forum mate. Where abouts in melbs are you? I saw this on carsales not long ago, good pick up. Very clean. From most servo's/7.11's/autobarn etc you can buy small or big bottles of additive for the fuel. It's cheap in the small bottles and lasts a few full tank refills.

Yup, my 3k had a pipe outlet on it for the heater core lines. The 4k I swapped into my ke30 had that blanking plate. After swapping over the 3k cooling setup onto the 4k, I had a leak from the same place. Best thing to do if the leak if from that area is to remove it, then clean up the back of the head where it bolts to with a razor blade, along with the inner side of that plating as well. Apply some good sealant and bolt it back up. Should sort your problem.

Would have to be a substantial leak to drop 3L of fluid in my garage, would also need to be magical as I never saw it hahaha. Torque converter was just dry I reckon. Hasn't being leaking yet. Things are looking up.

I had given up by Wednesday night and took it to a local workshop my workplace has a good relationship with. Torque converter was slightly misaligned, but not badly enough I couldn't engage any gears at all. No vac leaks. Needed another 2.5L of trans fluid - which is strange as I dumped 4L into it as per owners manual said. Even for a dry fill it should have only been about 4.5? Perhaps the torque converter itself had dumped all its fluid. Still hunts for idle a bit, not nearly as bad though and appears to be quite drivable and it feels amazing to be behind the wheel again. Thanks to everyone who provided knowledge and assistance as usual. Members on here are so helpful in comparison to nissansilvia haha. Thanks guys! Josh

So it appears I have installed it correctly. I'm hoping the issue is a simple misalignment and nothing more. Thanks for all the input guys, I'll keep you posted.

Is there a difference between the 3k and 4k ring gears? I highly doubt there would have been. However that said, working in spare parts for Toyota I've seen more than my fair share of stupid supersessions and minor design changes for no particular reason. I don't believe I've bolted the ring gear on incorrectly. That middle protrusion in the ring gear should recess into the hole at the back of the crank area, where the otherwise spigot bush/bearing would sit if a manual if I'm not mistaken? If I am, well....that's probably my problem hahaha.

Ok after many questions with friends and some mechanics at work they said it could be due to the torque converter coming too far forward on the shaft causing it to misalign. This seems to make sense as everything else seems good. I'll try gain access to it over the next couple of days and see if it free spins like it's meant to and get it to align again. Will post if successful. Thanks guys

I'm a litte ignorant as to where to locate that. Able to elaborate? Thanks

Was that the hardline that had a thread fitting on the other end where it screwed into the manifold? If so, I have connected that. The 4k manifold that came with the motor had it plugged up with a bolt so i removed that and fitted to the existing hardline into its position. Or am I crossing my wires and thinking of something else?

Definately seems that a core is slightly damaged, though not easily visible. As for the auto, used to work flawlessly behind the 3k, not one problem. The entire box lost all of it's trans fluid during the conversion yes, but upon reinstalling it all, new fluid was added accordingly. Don't think air is a factor unless your doing something with the internals. Seemed to bolt up to the ring gear etc without an issue so it should be engaging. Thanks Josh

- checked points and in pretty good condition, seems fine. - when redoing the timing/dizzy i'd set it around 8/9 which I read was recommended. - blocked off those spare vaccum ports. - this is the radiator i had in the car with the 3k for a short time. I had replaced it when the old original radiator crapped itself one night. i believe the old radiator breaking resulted in the constant overheats which in turn cooked the head. I had the new radiator in the car with the 3k for about a month before the motor completely died.

Full.

Hey guys, It's a 3 speed Borgy. Definately an auto rad, has the ports at the bottom for the trans lines to connect to. Getting the radiator looked at this weekend. Ignition timing was set to around 8/9 degrees. Would the timing affect the idle? Because as is the idle is essentially perfect. I know how hopeless they are up hills, mines always struggled - but this is hopeless on the flats. Barely moves at all. Motor was comp tested at 165 across all four. Unfortunately can't justify the manual conversion expense as all my cash goes into my project car. What coolant are you guys running? Also, would you recommend any Melbourne specialists? It's got to the point I need this on the road asap and I'm a little over the headaches. Tried getting in touch with Peter Robinson though it seems he's still shut down for the new years break? Thanks Josh

Hey guys, You've all been very helpful in the past so I thought I'd ask here again. Bought a 4k not too long ago and finally got around to installing it into my ke30. After having multiple problems along the way - stupid little things that otherwise shouldn't occur yet always seem to: I HAVE YET ANOTHER. After all the dillemmas I started it last weekend. Turned over first go and idled absolutely fine. Bled the coolant, ready for her journey next day. When I went to drive it: - Started running really warm within a few minutes [on a cool night] (YES, it was bled properly. New thermostat, rad cap, water pump, radiator) - Wouldn't really move. It's an auto. [box and torque converter etc all seemed to be installed correctly] Seemed to only want to kick about in first gear and would rev its head off without gaining any real speed like it couldn't engage second/or any other gear. From what I can see, no exhaust leaks. Everything seems fine? The other question is: - What radiator coolant are you guys running? I'm using the OEM Toyota Long Life coolant as i work for them so it's cheap and I was under the impression it'd be decent to use. The reason I ask is because after purchasing a new radiator not long before the conversion took place, It seems to be buggered already. I believe this explains the overheating. There was steam coming off the core and coolant had collected around the right hand side of the bottom tank. Could this coolant be detrimental? A friend with an old '68 Mini at work said alot of the Mini guys are having a problem whereby their radiators welds etc and whatever materials theyre made of aren't liking particular coolants and thus result in the same type of problem. Any help appreciated as usual. Thanks in advance guys. Josh

Ah makes sense. I've still got the 3k carby kicking about but its easier just to block these ones off. No dramas, I'll get onto that tonight and hopefully turn key everything will be all good. Thanks for the quick response mate, appreciated.

Hey guys. I've been scratching my head over this for a couple of days and still quite unsure. Recently swapped my 3k out of my ke30 for a 4k. Everything is essentially done now minus a couple of small tasks. My current small dillemma is the vacuum lines. Now, i pulled off the vac lines from the 3k and hooked them up to the 4k as they were on the old motor. However, I have noticed the 4k has a couple more 'nipples' [if you will] for possible vac lines to go on - namely around the base of the carby. Can I get away with just running the vacuum hoses in the 3k manner on the 4k motor? Or will I need to work out how the 4k lines run and hook them up accordingly? I'm assuming some will just be pollution related. I work for Toyota so this morning I had a look at all the different image schematics of the vacuum lines of all the 3k/4k engine variants over the years and there is a huge difference. How imperative is this? Any help appreciated. Thanks

Hey mate, cheers. Yup, 4k has the blanking plate on the back of the head. Since you've said I'm able to swap them and that'll work I'll get onto that this weekend. I take it the 3k water pump is a direct bolt on too which is good news. 4k engine came with manifold setup already attached, So i've just bolted up my front pipe to it and that's all sweet. Thanks again.

Anyone?

Hey guys. The old 3k let go a while back in my trusty ke30, so I finally got around to buying a 4k the other day. Ripped the old unit out, bolted transmission etc up to the 4k, no problem. Dropped into engine bay, bolted it all up - then realised: - water pump is different. - heater hoses are different [3k had a small hard pipe on back of head and one outlet on water pump from memory. 4k seems to have both on pump??] Water pump is in need of changing anyway as it is, so not a big dram. I was just wondering if someone could give me a run down as to what else may be/is different between the 2 motors I should be aware of and need to change/source. Also, if you could clarify these heater lines/hoses dilemma and how best to hook them up. Thanks Rone

a 4k.

3k/4k/5k headgaskets are the same so i'd presume so.

I could only see one attached to the box. It's on the passnger side closer to bellhousing. Has some kind of insulator/sheathing around it for protection. Loops up and through the firewall. Where's the reverse light plug?

hey guys. My 3k decided to let go a few weeks back and I've finally got around to tearing it out to make way for a 4k. The car is auto as it's my daily runabout and with all my other cash tied up in my s13 project, it's going to remain that way for quite some time. After about an hour of being busy with it yesterday, the only thing I had left to do before lifting it out was to drop the prop shaft. This can't be done by the looks of things with what appears to be a sensor still attached to the box, i'm assuming it's the speed sensor. Now, there's no hex head on it, or anything else i can see for an obvious removal. Is it just a vicegrips and turn job? How do I go about removing the bugger? I know my Silvia inside out however the 'rolla is still all a bit new to me in some regards, and I'd rather look stupid by asking and do it properly than to not ask and stupidly destroy it with idiotic frustration. thanks in advance guys.

I bought a second hand, filthy, worn set of work 4x114.3 14x6.5's+8 equip 03's off ebay for $450 delivered. 2 weeks sanding, prepping, priming, painting and polishing - they look brand near new. Wrapped in Kuhmo's, all up cost me 900. Bargains to be had.