Felix

I meant to just use the pedestals themselves, not the rockers. The pedestals are interchangeable. Remove the clips on the end of your 5k rocker shaft, and disassemble your 5k rocker gear. Now substitute your old machined pedestals for some untouched ones (steel 4k are good, avoid the earlier alloy ones), then reassemble retaining the non adjustable rocker arms. :P Hopefully that should fix any lifter preload issues, and get your motor up and running without having to worry about burning valves, or losing power due to the lifters pumping up.

Hey Cameron, You could consider substituting your current rocker pedestals for some you may have laying around out of a 4k. It could provide a quick easy solution to getting your engine up and running with the cam you currently have in it. Put your current pedestals away until you get around to redrilling the nose of your old hydro cam. Doug

Matt, my post wasn't directed at you. I was trying to get Cam thinking about what could be happening. The first thing I would do is strip off the rocker gear, and compare the rocker pedestal height to some others. When my 5k had a hydraulic reground cam in it, it also had the base of the rocker pedestals machined to match the reduced base circle diameter to maintain lifter preload. It had the same amount trimmed off the pedestals, as the reduction in radius of the B.C.D. I may not be a "professional", but I have found it always pays to check the simplest things first. Especially something he could do himself simply in 20 minutes or so. As for what happened to the original cam breaking, well I would be very interested in knowing what happened there myself. Doug

Here is something to think about: What happens to the base circle diameter when you regrind a cam? Ok, now think about how this would affect lifter preload in a 5k with hydraulics. Then ponder a few moments on how this is corrected if the motor has non adjustable valve gear. :dance: Now lets assume your 5k had been properly set up for the old reground cam. You have now put in a cam with a (larger) standard sized base circle, do you think there will be an obvious problem somewhere? I could spell it out, but I would prefer you to think about it for yourself. :P

As for your lifters pumping up, maybe you could possibly have to much lifter preload???

Yea I know. What I was getting at is that if I can get away with running a hydraulic cam with solid lifters, is that you will be fine running a mechanical cam with hydros. It may not be ideal but it will work. At the end of the day it is just a simple old K motor.

From the research I've done, hydraulic cams have higher ramp rates than what mechanical cams do. The hydraulic lifters smooth it out. I have a reground 5k hydraulic cam in the 4k in my ke16. It seems to have more lifter noise now than what it had when it had the old reground solid cam in it. It runs fine. :P

What you should do is get an even f@$king bigger stereo, put in you backyard with the speakers facing towards them and play the same game. :P

:P buy an iPod.....

Oh well at least you now know what the problem is. Make sure you compare the thickness of the rear bearing journal on the cam you are going to install with that of your old one. Seem to recall an incidence or two of people installing 4k cams into 5k blocks and the rear cam bearing journal hitting the welshplug at the back of the block. :P Think bmak from the oldcorollas group had this happen and it destroyed a cam.

You don't necessarily have to dial a cam in. If the cam grinder knows what he is doing, they will grind the cam straight up.... meaning that if you install the cam as per the stock timing marks on the timing gears it will be fine. There must be hundreds of k motors out there (possibly way more) with modified cams in them. Only a very very small percentage of them would have bothered with degreeing them in. Your cam was most likely installed a tooth out. One tooth out is 20 degrees out.

Installing a modified cam is no different to installing a stock one. Good luck.

They didn't come standard. Remember ke10's are pre ADR's. You need to drill holes and put plates behind the sheet metal for strength. Talk to an engineer/mod plate joint, for the required size of the plates.... Can't remember what size they were supposed to be.

The stock mechanical pumps have an inbuilt regulator, preset at 3.5 psi +/- 0.7 psi. Keep in mind that any non-return style regulator will have a pressure variation like this. The only way to have constant fuel pressure is to run a return style regulator, and/or a pump with an internal bypass. There are some later stock mechanical pumps that do run a return/bypass line back to the tank. For the cost of a pressure guage you could probably just about buy a carby kit. The first thing I would have done is to examine the needle and seat for wear... ten minute job. :P Does the idle falter/load up if you pull up real quick at a set of lights? This is the classic symptom of the needle and seat being overun due to it being worn.

The surrounds are so tacky on the ke2x cars. Color coding them like Redwarf has done looks best. Toyota got a bit carried away with the ugly stick in the 70's. :P

This arvy when I went to pick up my kids from school, I got pulled up by the coppers for a random breath test. The first thing the copper says is "that's a nice little car you got there mate". :yak: Then later on at the school, I had some elderly gent approach, compliment me on my car and start talking to me about corollas. Turns out he has a ke20 he is doing up. A while back the missus was pulled up in my ke15 by some coppers that had been following her for a bit. The first thing they pretty much said was "Thats a nice little car, geez it handles well. Does your hubby rally it or something". :) Lucky she had been taking it easy.

Can't say I have had problems using the stock mechanical fuel pumps. I was going to upgrade to an electric pump, but it isn't really worth the hassle unless you are going to run twin sidedrafts. I'm a strong subscriber to the K.I.S.S. principle. The only time I have had problems with weber downdrafts is if the carb has had a worn needle and seat. I'd say you most likely need to replace yours, possibly even rebuild the carb, with new gaskets and diaphrams. A needle and seat is only worth about $15.

New paint, new rubbers, a cobra classic drivers seat, and the rest of the seats retrimmed to match. Yea and my SC14 bolted on with a mild 8psi boost so I could show those xr6 drivers who's boss in a straight line. :)

One tooth out is 20 cam degrees in relation to the crank, not 10. Remember the cam runs at half crank speed. From what you have said, it sounds to me like you have the cam retarded one tooth. I would turn the motor over until #4 cylinders valves are on the rock. Disconnect the timing chain, then rotate the crank back to TDC (on #1), then reconnect the timing chain. Dialing in a cam is all well and good if you have vernier timing gears (plus you need a degree wheel, and a dial indicator). Generally cam grinders grind cams straight up, unless you have a cam with split timing.

Pretty sure all 4k's had single row timing chains standard. After 20 odd years there wouldn't be many engines out there that haven't had a timing chain changed in their life. Easy to fit a double row setup from a 3k. Both single and double row kits are freely available from parts shops. When the single row chains wear and stretch, they get to the point where the tensioner can't do its job properly. When they are real bad the chains actually hit, and start wearing grooves on the inside of the timing cover. :) A badly worn timing chain will cause the spark timing to wander a bit. You can see this with a timing light at idle.

From memory, I'm pretty sure the cam gear has 36 teeth and the crank gear has 18. A quick way to eyeball if a cam is setup close, is to turn the engine over by hand with the rocker cover off. The rockers on cylinder #4 should be "on the rock" (ie exhaust just closing and inlet opening), when #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke. Doug

mattress, no never met him. Why would you want to put one of these wheels on a later car? If you really want the older style, just go buy yourself an earlier ke1x which has way more class than the later plastic models. :) Otherwise, Nardi have some nice retro styled wheels. Personally I think something a little smaller and thicker rimmed is far more practical and comfortable for a regularly driven car.

LOL. Yea well I have been playing with K series corollas for about 15 years now. Could probably do it blindfolded. Pity they don't go back together that fast. I'll probably spend more time scraping the old gasket residue off the block.

This steering wheel came standard on the ke15/17 sprinter SL models.

Pulled the head off this evening. I spent more time cleaning up my workbench and shed floor than it took to remove the head. It took less than half an hour to pull the head off. Gotta love the simplicity of the old K series. :) The front most bolt on the extractors was the worst bit. Emulsified engine oil stinks...... :yak: