Felix

if you don't mind playing around changing gears in housings.... some datsun's (120y's i think) had 3.9 borg warners with the small centers like the corollas used.

no. when i recently rebuilt my 4k head the valves and seats weren't that bad at all. the engine had seen 3 1/2 years service and had only minor pitting on the exhaust seats. in fact the engine ran a tighe 113 (at 9.8:1 CR) during that time period. went hard in the 4k making peak power around 7500 with shimmed stock valve springs. my 5k has a solid lifter conversion with holden blue motor double valve springs. it has seen 8500. camerondownunder88 the average 3k head you find is exactly the same casting as a normal 4k head. the 3k one just has more of the deck face skimmed off. not hard to do the same thing to a 4k head at a machine shop. at least then you know it is straight and not possibly warped. running 10:1 CR shouldn't provide to many problems. if it pings back off the timing (although backing off the timing makes an engine run flatter). you don't run stoich under full load conditions (more like 12-13:1 A/F), stoich is more for cruise. with 10:1 CR you should be running at least 95 octane premium. cam overlap effects dynamic compression, which is what you should really be thinking about.... :dance:

pinging is more prevalent at low throttle light load conditions. i guess with an auto when it is slotted into drive you instantly put a light load on the engine. lower compression and/or less ignition advance helps. if you are putting together an engine, work out the compression yourself. a piece of clear perspex and a syringe are all you need. you will also need to take into account head gasket volume. you never know if a head has been skimmed in the past due to overheating. ToDa30/4 what sort of power range do you want from your 3k? how do you drive it? are you going to drop the diff ratio? do you want torque, revs or a mixture of both? i'd look at a tighe 112 for a 3k myself. stock valve springs with shimming are good for 8 grand (or more) in my experience. stock 3k and 4k pistons are all the same (except for dished 4k), flat tops. any compression ratio difference between 4k's would be in the heads combustion chamber volume. 4k pistons should be fine at 6psi.

i don't necessarily agree with oldcorollas ideas on engine building.... 4k's with flat top pistons have 9.0:1 CR standard (autos 8.5:1). the only ones with 9.5:1 are the dished piston variety. it only costs around $50 or so to skim a 4k head to up the compression. my advice is don't bother putting a 3k head on a 4k.

:dance: they were really stuck! think you need to remove about 3mm from each axle. put both types of axles side by side and you will know for sure.

geez the old girl really lifts her skirts and gets up and goes now. :dance: gets to 80mph in 2/3rds of the distance it used to take. this 4k has awesome midrange pull. it will really go when i update this crap aisan carb. goes so much harder than the stock ke70 4k which came out (which compression tested at 150-160 psi). it is so much louder. the missus said she could hear me about a kay up the road. could only hear it for about half the distance before from home. the exhaust rattle is gone. it was bad as the sports exhaust was setup to run above the gearbox xmember between the gearbox and the tunnel. i used exhaust thermo wrap.... evil stuff, makes you itchy. very happy so far. no leaks or anything. :abuse:

thanks. the booster and master cylinder are from a subaru (leone wagon?). it will be going shortly and be replaced with a non boosted dual circuit m/cyl from a galant. i much prefer the non boosted pedal feel. i'll also be upgrading the discs on the wagon from the ke2x ones on it now to ke30 ones. the swaybar is a whiteline 22mm item. i have them on both my cars. the motor is the nicest part of the car now. i plan on tarting up the old girl in the near future.

te37 maybe? there was a ke35 SR model with a 3k-b and 5 speed, which had a tacho dash. doubt it would have got to 200 kays though.

woohoo! disconnected the coil, cranked it over until the oil light went out. reconnected the coil and she started first go. :dance: still haven't got the radiator in it, so i didn't run it for long. sounds way tougher then the old motor. :D i'll finish it off and time it properly tomorrow. probably put my 32/32DGV weber on it later in the week. it could do with a bigger carb now.

the motor is ready to go in tomorrow. was wondering why the old clutch made some odd noises, until i saw the friction plate. :dance: she's slightly fnackered. bits of rivet fell out when i separated the box from the old motor.

an easy way to narrow it down is to look for the 2 knobby bits under number 1 and 4 spark plugs, circled in the following pic. only normal dished piston 5k's and dished piston 4k's have them.

pulled the motor out of the ke16 this arv. took about an hour and a half doing most of it myself with handtools, the missus helped for some things. i SOOO want a bigger compressor and an air ratchet. i'm loving the engine crane, and load leveller. the load leveller makes it easy to tilt the engine/box to the angle you want. made life so much easier considering the car has 4into1 extractors which are welded in, GRRR! :dance: had to remove both engine mounts so i had clearance to manouver it out. it was set up that way by the previous owner, anyone who adds extractors without an easily removable flange should be bitch slapped! now just need to clean things up and transfer some bits over between the two engines, before putting the new one in.

your images are to big for me to be bothered to wait for them to load.

really there is nothing wrong with a stock carb on a stock engine. you can rejet them for better performance. personally i would wait until after an exhaust and cam before worrying about a carb change (improve the filter setup by all means). otherwise there is no real benefit, only loss of low end drivability, and lower fuel economy. i would recommend fitting a vacuum guage. if you see vacuum under full throttle conditions through the lower gears, then upgrade your carb. ie, my warm 5k in my ke15 was running a stock 3k aisan for a while.... i would see 4-5" of vacuum at full throttle through the lower gears. ;) with the DCD i have 0" vacuum. weber downdraft carbs i would recommend for a k series are 32/32 DGV (not 32/36 unless you have a 5k), 32 ADFA, 28/36 DCD, 32/34 DMTL.

finished bolting together the 4k that is to go into the '16. finished decoking the ports, and scraped the head clean of old gasket. was a bit of a mission as i use gasket goo on all my headgaskets (not going to leak in a hurry ;) ). i wire wheeled all the carbon buildup off all the valves, and reground them. reassembled the head, overhead valvespring compressors are good. when it came time to bolt the head to the block i was stressing, as there were no headbolts in the boxes i put all the parts in when i partially disassembled the motor (about 2 years and 3 moves ago). must have used them for my 5k. anyway i found a box with three sets amongst all my crap, and used a set of the earlier 3k non elastic type headbolts. just need to bolt the water pump, thermostat housing and other ancillaries from the motor in the car to it now. total expenditure on this project is a can of degreaser, and some gaskets and seals from a full gasket set i bought at the markets a few years ago for $15. otherwise it is just parts recycling. :jamie:

yea, but a 3t has way more potential than a k series.

i reckon you need to cut and shut a frontend onto the boot and have both in one unit. esky oneside, BBQ the other. a dodgy pic would explain better. barbske:

a 32/36 is a bit big on a 4k. a 5k breathes a lot harder at lower revs, so the DGV will be better suited. a 28/36 DCD would be even better. just get the long motor, unless they throw in the other gear. all your existing ancillaries will bolt on. my solid lifter conversion cost me a whole $0. ;) nothing wrong with the hydraulics though. you don't need to rev the piss out of a 5k like you do with a 4k to make power. if you use hydraulics and get a reground cam, skim the base of the rocker pedestals to maintain lifter preload. this takes into account the reduction in the base circle diameter of the cam when they regrind it.

i like that. ;) she needs a bit more dish though... you need to do another one to park beside it with a BBQ in the back. :jamie:

that is pretty cool. i see he ended up going with aftermarket management to tune it properly. pity you can't reprogram the denso ECU's. ;) i know you can always run a piggyback computer to alter mixtures, but the ignition timing maps can't be changed. well you can always alter base timing, but that has a global affect on timing.

that first pic is my current motor. ultimately you shouldn't expect much more power from a 5k than what you would from a 4k. they both are pretty much airflow limited by the same sized valves and a non-xflow head design. i have experienced this myself from running similarly built 4k and 5k engines. the 5k will make more torque and be quicker (more area under the curve). in a lightweight ke1x it will be fairly quick. even my missus has been known to pull out and overtake a line of 5 cars in country driving. ;) if you can set up a 5k cheap, then go for it. other wise the money spent would be maybe best put towards a conversion.

are you limited to brake size with class limits or something? a set of stock ke30 discs would be an improvement, i'd say. i know the ke30 discs on my ke15, shit all over the ke17/2x discs on my ke16. btw, beautifully presented little car. ;)

i dig the slammed jap stocko look with the black steelies. don't imagine it would handle to well though, with a few bumps thrown in. good price.

cost me just over $100 with postage and a new needle and seat. i also added my old throttle linkage from my previous DCD. way better than a gemmy carb. everything on this one is tunable. i ran my previous 28/36 DCD weber for ages. i had it on a near stock bigport 3k with ported head. i had 25/25mm venturis in it then. also i ran it on the afore mentioned 4k and 5k.

yes, use the lot. just substitute your hubs for the earlier stud pattern. ;)