Felix

I don't have any decent pics of when I ran my twin aisans on my ke15. I do have some pics of my twin aisan setup on the bench. If I get time tomorrow I'll see if I can resize them and post. I wouldn't worry to much about the water heating. My carb setup had the water passage ground off the base of the manifold. Just takes a little longer to get up to operating temp, use the choke a litlle longer on cold days. If we lived in a really cold climate the water heating would be of more benefit.

Also you have to remember that with a reground cam, you will have more lift and faster valve acceleration. Both of which make life a lot harder on the valve springs. If you are going to run 4age rods, would you really need to worry to much about aftermarket rod bolts? Isn't a bigport 4age bottom end normally good for 8 grand?

Definitely agree with you on that. My wagon handles nowhere near as well as my ke15. Though when you have the wagon loaded up it handles alot better. The sway bar did make a BIG difference on the wagon, but it is still a lot more skittish in the rear than the ke15 with its softer springs.

Think i paid AU$230 (delivered) for the last one I bought for the ke16. That was about 3 years ago though. I have one on both my ke15 and ke16. Makes a huge difference to handling! As ROL-110 said, I would never drive a ke1x without one. Really helps to stop lifting the inside rear during hard cornering, and makes the car corner flat.

Myles what sort of welding mask are you using? I found I could weld alot better with a mig when using one of those auto dimming masks.

Just a thought, maybe you could use the crank and rods from an earlier bigport 4age? They have the 18mm gudgeon pins like your 4ac. Should give you extra bottom end reliability. You might need to change the flywheel though, I'm not sure but the 4age crank may need an 8 bolt flywheel... Somebody else here who is into 4ages should know.

If you look into venturi selection you will see that your carbs are setup for max power at around 6300 with those venturis for your capacity. A set of 36mm venturis would be ideal for max power at just over 7 grand. Ideally if you wanted max power past that point you would be best to go to a set of 45's. You might possibly have a K (1100cc) bigport head. The 3k and later heads should have 36mm inlet and 29mm exhaust valves. I'd be looking at a max of around 290 deg duration with 10.5:1 compression.

Cameron I think you are missing some clips. The one on mine was siliconed in place, also I drilled a hole and added a self tapping screw so I wouldn't lose it. As you may realise, they are extremely difficult to come by if it happened to fall off.

Hey kangaroosa, what are the full specs of your motor? What compression ratio are you running, the valve size, what sort of headwork has been done, what head is it, current cam specs, extractor type (4into1s or 4-2-1s), exhaust size, bore size, carby and venturi size? Also what diff ratio and gearbox, and tyre size are you running? Do you have a close ratio gearset? A full rundown on specs would help alot towards finding the ideal cam. Also what sort of driving do you do? Do you do weekend motorsport in it? What sort of revrange do you want? Everything is a compromise. Matching all the components the best you can to suit your intended usage will give the best overall results.

It is legal to convert a drum braked ke10 with an 1100cc K engine to a 1300cc 4k, without mod plate in QLD. A 3k to 4k in a ke20 will be fine.

Yep should only take an engine number change at DOT, no mod plate needed. Inform your insurance company of the engine number change.

The single biggest improvement to handling on a ke1x is to add a front swaybar. Whiteline makes a good 22mm kit. Alternatively if you can find a front bar from an RT40 corona, you could make up some brackets to adapt. The RT40 bars are 19mm, and are almost identical in dimensions to the bar in the Whiteline kit. For the front struts, fit a set of ke20-55 heavy duty strut inserts. They are a little shorter so you will need a spacer on top before you fit the retaining nut. Part of the original wet leg innards makes a perfect spacer. The use of ke20 top spring retainers makes for easier lowering, whilst ditching the front leaves. Have a look here and here for futher details on front end mods. I'd suggest upgrading to at least ke30 front discs on a set of ke20 hubs. They stop better and are more fade resistant than the ke20 discs. A simple dual circuit master cylinder upgrade is to use a non-boosted mitsubishi galant item. They nearly bolt straight in with some fiddling with brake lines. At the rear, I would suggest leaving the rear leaves as is, unless you drive on a racetrack or very smooth roads. You want rear suspension compliance to help power through corners. Just add a set of heavy duty shocks and urethane bushes to minimise tramp and sidestepping. If you make it to low and stiff the rear will become skittish and unpredictable on rough surfaces, and more of a handful in the wet. For rims try Mazda 626 RWD ones. They are 13x5.5, and fit a ke1x perfectly. You need to file out the center hole slightly otherwise they are near impossible to remove from the front hubs. You should be able to get them from the wreckers for between $10 to $20 per rim. To make the car look more stock, get a set of old 13" hubcaps from something like a Mazda or Datto. A set of performance orientated 185/60R13 tyres fit perfectly on the above rims and make a huge difference in handling and safety over 12" tyres.

ke30 jap centers bolt straight into a ke10 jap diff housing. You just need to change the rear yoke (different bolt pattern) on the driveshaft to the later one with a new uni joint.

Can't say that I have ever had my engine dynoed. All my tuning has been done with a box of jets, AFR meter, timing light, stopwatch and buttometer, so I won't comment on how it goes. :kiwi: What I will say is that it is useless comparing cam profiles in different capacity engines. A 25/65 cam will perform like a bigger cam in a smaller capacity engine. ie. when I had my 25/65 cam in my old 4k it would pull best between 3500-7500+. The same cam in a near identically prepared 5k shifted the power down around 1000 rpm in the rev range, to 2500-7000 rpm. Personally I think you would be best off with the 30/70 out of the two profiles you mentioned, especially with the twin sidedrafts and oversized valves. You would give away a little torque, but would make better use of the airflow of the enlarged valves and sidies in the topend.

They would probably fit, though you would need to cut the pipe off at the collector and remake a new one. The pacemaker extractors in my ke15 were originally in a ke30 before I got them. I had to do the above.

You could do a search for his user name and send him a PM.

the ke15s were 68-69 models and the ke17s 69-70. Gavclassic has at least one, the 20v one was a ke17, and there are others around. Yea there probably isn't as many ke17s, maybe they weren't as popular in the day.

:D Of course we did. We got the ke15/17 sprinters. There is probably more here in Australia than anywhere else in the world, though they are pretty rare. CanadianKE17, I think the 2t's can be made to fit reasonably easily, have seen a few pics of ke1x's with 2tgs in them. You would probably need to massage the firewall around the bellhousing, and most likely the transmission tunnel. You might need to relocate the heater a bit and knock in the domed bit on the firewall. It would be even more front heavy though. The early RX7 rims look pretty good on it. I've only pulled a steering box out of one ke10 as it was stripped (basket case). Think I took it out after pulling the front xmember so it was pretty easy in that case. as mikeys toy stated, you have to drop it from under the car.

Amazing the price. I reckon there would be a lot of middle aged guys out there kicking themselves now. I knew one bloke who parked his up a tree back when he was young and stupid. Heaps must have been written off in motor racing in the old days when you drove your car to bathurst, raced, then drove it back home if it was still in one piece.

Its not really worth upgrading the carb unless you have an upgraded exhaust and cam first. A bigger carb will make your motor lose torque in the lower rev range. Useful gains can be had by experimenting with jetting in the stock carb and fitting a freeer flowing filter setup, or cutting down the original filter housing. The gemini nikkis have vacuum secondaries. They can be modded to make them mechanical.

If you interested, and I get the chance on the weekend, I can have a look for some for you. I have a ke10 with a heap of spares at my mother in laws place. There are a couple of extra doors there, think they may still have the winder mechanisms in them. Doug.

Red steelies, whitewall flappers. Maybe get a wheel specialist to straighten the rims and powdercoat them a bright red. Ditch the guard mirrors and get a set of peep mirrors. With the graphics, I reckon just scallop the front of the car to halfway up the bonnet, with the points stopping just in front of the windscreen, and maybe a third of the way along the doors. Keep where the side windows were black, and either get some mack brushes and pinstripe it, or paint some old styled aged/weathered signage on it. :D

Is it the winder mechanisms, or the winder handles that are worn on yours?

Why bother. It isn't hard to simply lean across and wind up or down the passenger window. The ke10's are pretty narrow inside.

doityourself put in a remote booster.