Felix

A ke10 starter is smaller than the later ke30 ones. :P I don't have decent scales but I get ~4kgs, Identical reading to 4kgs of pet food. LOL. I also run a HD 6 cyl battery.

OK Fook. I was just going by what my workshop manual said. It suggested that you totally remove the CV's from the car when changing an engine. But then again, it is hardly surprising that a workshop manual wouldn't steer you in the quickest, easiest direction for repairs. Anyway the fact is I have no interest in this car, though it is nice and all. As I said in the for sale thread, the missus looks as though she will be getting a work car shortly, so this one will just be taking up space. I'd prefer to keep and work on my ke1x's. :P This car is for sale, SEE HERE. Any further questions, or if anyone wants to have a look at it PM me.

I just run the early ke1x type starter motors on my 5k, it spins it over fine. The reduction type would probably be better, but meh, just think of the pain in the ass it would be to have to change a larger starter motor with extractors. Only time I ever had a starter motor problem was when I had a pressure plate partially self destruct, and bits of metal jammed between ring gear and inside of the bellhousing, temporarily seizing the motor. I fried that particular starter motor. :P

It all depends on your extractor design. With my ke15 I had to lower my manifold side mount (compared to a stock ke15 mount) to get clearance for my pacemaker extractors. Really if you think about it the lower the motor sits the better for handling... But in the end I guess it comes down to making whatever extractors you can find fit, as they are not freely available. Running the exhaust under the gbox xmember = less rattles. I've never had clearance issues with the exhaust running under the xmember in my ke15, though the car has only been lowered very slightly. My ke16 which has the exhaust running over the xmember rattles a lot. I have plastic fans on both my ke15 and ke16. You just need to find the right fan with the right offset. My ke16 had a DC thermofan on it before I changed to a ke20 radiator, afterwards I decided to fit a plastic fan, purely for simplicity and reliability. I have had problems with the thermo fan switch previously.

The pacemaker extractors in my ke15 came out of a ke30. I had to cut off the pipe at the collector and get it rerouted to suit my floorpan. Having run a K, 3k, 4k, and 5k, I have had to alter the manifold side engine mount to account for the differences in block height between the motors. From the pics I've seen of camerons extractors, they look home made. This may or maynot make them more difficult to fit. The best way of altering the block height for best extractor fit is to cut up a k series engine mount (use the block side metal part), drill a hole at the right height and bolt a escort/cortina round engine mount to it. You can also use shims under the mount (where it bolts to the chassis) to fine tune the height.

PCD for a peugot is 4x108. KE11 is 4x110.

radrollaz, you need to start your own thread. :wink: You must have strangled that poor motor with that little carb.

^^^^ :P

Sorry if I initially confused you Taz. I've played with holden red motors since the bigport 3k ones, whereby I confused myself with where the o-rings went. What I meant by the o-ring seals doing f@$k all, is that they only try to prevent oil running down the stem. They have no effect whatsever in stopping oil spray that gets under the retainers. Also they have no effect in preventing vacuum from sucking oil down a worn valve guide.

Actually thinking about it, the o-ring seals may slip on the top (top groove of stem) of the valve stem after the collets have been installed. Sorry, it has been about 6 years since I last played with a bigport head. The bigport heads I have are unfortunately not here.

The o-ring type sit on a groove on the valve stem below the valve collets, inside of the valve spring retainer. Pretty piss poor setup really, they do f@$k all if the guides are worn. If I was to run an early type head I would adapt a set of escort umbrella type valve stem seals.

The ACL part number for the o-ring style valve stem seals is HR217.

May have been an original K head. They had smaller valves standard than all the rest of the K series motors. Probably had the guides replaced with later ones at the same time the valves were updated. The originals were probably rooted as the head would be at least 38 years old now. :P

Your pic is not real clear. Looks to me like the later style guides, which have a groove to which the valve stem seal clips on. On the left the valve stem seal has been removed. The valve stem seal is still present on the right.

With the earlier heads the valves stems have 2 grooves machined in them, one for the spring retainer collets and one for the o-rings which mount in the spring retainer. ie. crap oil consumption unless the guides are good. The later motors (ke30 3k and on) have valve stem seals which clip on to the valve guides. If you want to install the later valve stem seals into an earlier head, you need to replace the valve guides with the later ones.

Cameron, That is not a 3k-b head, as it does not have the water gallery to heat the twin carb manifold. It is simply a bigport 3k head, the same as what came standard on all single carb 3k ke11's and ke20's. All the 3k and 3k-b heads have the same sized valves as all later heads. :P

You are going about it the wrong way if you want it to handle. Read the ke1x handling thread. 12"ers just don't handle. Good for the old skool pose look if dumped though. :P

They won't fit.

You're just being a girl. LOL :bash: You need to remove the seal first to remove the inner bearing. The bearing races need to be drifted out if you replace them.

Couldn't maybe use a dremel with a carbide or diamond tipped bit?

Rotary displacement explained here. :bash:

You can replace the strut inserts. Read back over this thread to see how ke2/3/5x aftermarket strut inserts can be fitted into your existing strut housings. :bash:

I've used the method Robert described on a few occasions. Works well. Just use a bolt with a similar sized thread as the internal diameter of the spigot bearing. A word of advice, make sure you hold the bolt with a pair of multigrips while swinging your SST1 (big f'n hammer). Not good if you smash your thumb with a 1kg hammer, whilst your hands are covered in grease. LOL!

My parents had that interior option in a red ke35 they bought new in in 1978. :sob:

I spoke to an older guy at the All Toyota Day a few years ago with a really nice ke16. He said he used a ke70 wagon seal on his.