Felix

Check your throttle cable, and carb linkages. You may have a frayed cable.

Check the fuel cutoff solenoid.

You need to let it sit for 5 minutes or so after running to let the oil drain to the sump. Then pull the dipstick, wipe it off, replace for about 10 secs, then take a reading.

For interests sake, a ke15/17 sprinter coupe has a 3" lower roofline than a ke1x sedan/wagon. The windscreen and front pillars are laid back more, and the door frames front windows and quarter glass are different to suit. Yes there is a lot less headroom in my ke15 compared to my ke16. They all share the same front screen. A mate had a ke10 once, and it had the seats lowered in it. The chassis boxing bit under the front of the seat had been cut out, replated and welded, to allow the seats to sit a couple of inches lower. Polycarbonate.

Needs a top chop.

Exactly. What's the point of putting $45 oil into a $100 motor?? Now if you had some hipo turbo motor worth several grand, you'd go for the good stuff...

Yea, I just use whatever is on special for under $20 bucks for 5 or 6 liters. Pretty much any cheap oil these days is of much better quality than the oils when our cars came out. For example in the ke30 owners handbook it recommends API SC, SD or SE grade oil. Even the cheapest oil you can get now is of API sg/cd grade or better. With the lifters, just adjust them.

Max power isn't everything. A stock ca18det has about 40% more torque than a 20v. 4age 20V silvertop: 162@5200 Nm CA18DET: 228@5200 Nm

They will, if you remove the leaf springs. They might raise the car though. My ke16 has the leaves removed and has ke20 lowered kings springs in it. Can't remember exactly if they are lows or super lows... I'd have to check. It sits a little higher than stock. It also has ke20 upper spring seats which lower a ke1x by an inch or more. The problem with the ke1x is the spring seats are a lot closer together than what they are on a ke20. You really need a swaybar on the front if you remove the leaves. The leaves do provide a fair degree of anti-roll.

That would have to be the most gay, crap Pink Floyd cover ever.

With a pre ADR car you can pretty much run any carb setup you want. Shit the emission gear on a ke10 consists of a dump pipe to spray crankcase vapours down the transmission tunnel. :P For a decent set of twin aisans with original airfilter box you would be looking at $300+. Way more if you bought them through a wreckers.

Twin aisans aren't anything flash. I've run them for quite some time in the past. The best carb setup for all round performance on a street engine is a 28/36 DCD weber. It will make just as much if not more power than twin aisans with better throttle response and much much better economy. Best of all a DCD weber stays in tune. LOL. Think about it, the stock aisan carb is probably one of the most unreliable parts on an old k series corolla... multiply by 2.

That is a nice setup, good work. I really like how stock looking it is. :P You should put together a decent 5k, and run 2 of those throttle bodies on a twin aisan manifold.

I've had 3 dished piston 4k's (2 x twinsquish and a D). The conrods in them were all a little thinner than the ones in the 2 5k's I have. Makes sense as a 5k conrod has to swing a heavier piston...

Sounds like the way to go. If you keep the revs below 8 grand don't worry to much about balancing. Personally I'd aim for around 10:1 or just over with a high lift 280 degree cam (30/70). Would give a broad power band with a bit of lope, whilst still being fairly tractable for everyday driving. Mate used to run a similar setup in his ke20 club car (where I got my head), and it went very well with twin 1 3/4" SU's. It was funny, had a towbar on the thing and it would pull a loaded trailer with ease.

That looks pretty good. The hotwires suit nicely. :P

Won't quite fit in with the style of the rims and stripes methinks. :P Maybe you should paint it suede black with some faux patina, buy a mack brush to do some pinstriping, add flappers and moondiscs. On the inside a set of mexican blankets, an 8 ball on an extended shift lever, with a tiki hanging off the rear view mirror. While you're at it add a set of half moons to your headlights, and some blue dots to your tail lights. Don't forget skull door locks and a set of dice valve caps. Lakes pipes would really set it all off and go with a Rat Fink graphic nicely. Edit: I told the missus about this and she said you'd need a set of iron cross mirrors, or peep mirrors with visors.

That is true. Also consider the fact that a lighter car increases your power to weight ratio dramatically. So pretty much a ke20 with a 5k would probably go as hard as a ke35 with a 7k. My ke15 when it had a decent 4k in it had pretty much identical performance to a ke30 with a 4age.

:'( So much theoretical gobledegook. Anyone would think that k motors were weak and complicated, when in fact they are the total opposite. Rad Rolla, do your self a favour and ask how long people have been successfully running their combos, and what motorsport they have actually done.

Ok here is a rundown on the valve port sizes for different k series heads: K bigport: 30-31mm inlet ports. 34mm/28mm in/ex valves 3k bigport: 30-31mm inlet ports. 36mm/29mm in/ex valves 3k/4k smallport: 24-25mm inlet ports. 36mm/29mm in/ex valves. 4k/5k dished piston: 27-28mm inlet ports. 36/29mm in/ex valves. Airflow through the valves is the determining factor on how much a head can flow. There is not that much meat between the valves to be able to enlarge them very much. What superjamie is getting at, was that for the increase in capacity of a 5k over a 4k, there isn't the same percentage increase in valve area. Also note there wasn't an increase the distance between the valve centers when the capacity went from the 4k to 5k.

Not qood, hopefully it is a simple cheap fix. For hoses use ke30 ones. Trim the top one to suit. On the bottom one I cut it in two taking out a bit, and join with a piece of pipe and a couple of extra hose clamps.... Sort of a weird explanation, but if you have a ke10 and a ke30 bottom hose side by side you'll understand.

I bought a rebuilt 5k bottom end with about 10,000 kays on it for $150 Threw in the tighe 113 (25/65 65/25)from my old 4k, with a 3k double row timing chain. Converted it to solid lifters (gutted hydraulics), with 3k pushrods and 4k rocker gear. I ported a 5k head I got from a mates ke20 club car, it already had holden double valve springs and k-line guides fitted. Ended up with 9.6:1 CR. Already had pacemaker 4-1 extractors and 1 7/8" exhaust. Weber 28/36 DCD Minus the induction and exhaust the motor owed me under $500 fitted including a vrs kit, clutch kit and oil/filter etc. Has run like a dream for over 3 years now, only hassle I've had is a leaky extractor gasket and a front crank seal. It is in a ke15 with 5 speed. Averages around 12km/L with all sorts of driving. Has better drivability and throttle response than a stock motor. Makes your average v6 look well.. average. :y: It is cool, when you feel lazy you can putter around roundabouts in 5th and ease away nicely. It will happily rev to way past 8 grand, but it is quicker to shift at 7 and put it in the meat of the torque band. It runs nicely on 95 octane and will tolerate being run on the hottest of days on 92 without pinging if you are desparate. The goal was to build an allround reliable no fuss performance/economy motor.

Have you done an ECU error code check? You may have a bad injector.

I had to use google as whereis didn't have very good resolution for our area. Here's a pic of my place. I can vaguely make out my ke15 which is circled. My Nova is easily seen in front of the shed. It is funny how the track for the kids quad bikes stands out in the back yard. :y:

If anything with a worked motor you should be running a plug one heat range colder. A hotter plug is a bandaid for an old motor that burns oil. Tune or rejet your carb so it isn't so rich at idle. Better yet, install a better carb and jet it to suit your engine mods. A question, do you have a functioning PCV system?