Pretty sure the 4afc and early 4afe have the exact same bottom end.
The 4afc and earlier 4afe have slightly different heads. They are pretty much identical castings, except the injectors are mounted in the head on the 4afe (not the manifold) and squirt directly into the inlet ports. You could bolt the early 4afe head on a 4afc, but would have to run the injection setup.
The later 4afe's have different manifolds to the earlier ones (injectors in manifold), so won't be compatible. The heads are a different casting to the earlier 4afc/e. They have more in common with a 7afe than with the earlier 4afc/e.
From what I've come across, it seems if you want reground cams for the earlier 4afc/e you get the cams from the later 4afe and grind them down. Apparently the later cams are not compatible with the earlier motors unless the lobes are machined down, due to having a larger base circle diameter.
The pushrod end sits lower in the 3F lifters than the chev ones. I've attached a quick pic of what I mean. Note the chev ones may sit a little lower than how I have drawn it but you will get the idea.
Also yes there is two different rocker pedestal heights. The only thing is that they both sit the rocker shaft the same height in relation to the top of the head. ;)
If guys are running a12 pushrods with chev solids, I think they will be to short with the lifters you have now.
My oil pump has a 3mm shim in it, with my zero dollar converted lifters which have been going happily for near on 3 years now. ;)
I'm happy with my zero dollar quick and dirty solid lifter conversion. :cool:
Cool. Can you get a pic of the oil feed holes in the side of the lifter?
What pushrods are you going to run? I have a feeling that dished 4k pushrods would be the right length with those lifters running a 5k head. Shallow cupped 3k ones might work if you have enough thread on your adjusters. Normal 4k ones will probably be to long.
Are you still going to run the same cam that was run with the lifters that went bad? Hopefully the the taper hasn't been worn off the cam lobes that makes the lifters rotate.
Hey Mikey, you need to try a roll on. ie. drive along in first then add brake with your left foot whilst adding throttle with your right. Pretty cool when you do it right, also saves your clutch and shockloads to your drivetrain.
I see you have now got peep mirrors. :cool: Need to replace the rims with more era specific ones now to better suit the look.
They look pretty narrow to me. You wouldn't be able to put much rubber on them without the tyres rubbing on the struts, as they don't seem to have much offset. I guess you could run spacers (illegal) or get the centers cut out and welded into wider rims.
Pic I found of them below:
I think the original tyres were something like a 155/80R12. Watch your overall diameter, it will affect speedo readings, gearing, ride height, and also legality.
Something like a 185/65R15 would be nearly 3 inches larger in diameter, raise your car 1 1/2 inches, throw your gearing out by 12%, and most likely scrub your inner guards badly on tight turns.
Here is a link to a Tyre Selection Calculator. You need Excel to use it.
If you are interested I have a 32/32 DGV (not 32/36), which was jetted for a 4k. It has a new adapter plate and ramflo filter with new foam element.
Send me a PM if you want more info.
Yea a vinyl top isn't the best for rust. If the car was always stored in a shed and only driven on fine days it wouldn't be a problem. I must admit though that they are very nice when properly done. I saw an XB hardtop with one yesterday and it looked the goods.
I doubt you will find a build date on the firewall plate. :y:
I'd steer clear of larger diameter tyres, or they will scrub on the inner wheel well when turning tightly on a ke10.
Maybe have a look at some Hankook Centum K702's. They are available in whitewalls. Link here.
You could always sell your rt40 hubcaps and find some others to fit your rims.
It wouldn't be a 1970 model, the ke15's ran from 68-69.
The parts supply is coming along nicely. :S
You could consider either painting or vinyl trimming the roof black. Sunbeam Stiletto's had similarish styling with a black vinyl roof. I think it would work well with the yellow/orange, but it is entirely your choice.
Nice car that one.
Thats Barry Pitts old car. I saw it several years ago at the All Toyota Day, was immaculate then. Good to see it has finally got the motor it deserves.
So... You can still get decent performance tyres in 14's. It is your car though, do what makes you happy. :jamie:
I reckon you should be fine with handbrake clearance. As Taz_Rx said, measure it up. You will probably find the shifter will be in a more comfortable position with the 70 box.
Not good.
No big drama though. Cost $44 for a head skim, plus head and manifold gaskets when the one on the ke16 went. Add 2 oil filters and 2 lots of oil, for if your sump filled with water.
I got an 8 litre thickshake out of the sump. Mmmm, lots of yummy goodness. :jamie: