Felix

Hey Tham, I'm not sure exactly, but I think it was something like a 97 primary, 165 secondary. I've been playing with carbs for many years so have accumulated a reasonable collection from old carbs and others from carb shops. You could always look on ebay for "jet drills" and solder up your existing ones and redrill them.

I run mazda 626 RWD steel rims on my ke15, they are 13 x 5.5" with yokohama A539's in 185/60r13. I have ke20 hubs with ke30 discs, and don't have any hassles with rubbing on the struts. There is about 6-7mm of clearance between the strut/sidewall. I also run the same wheels/tyres on my ke16 which has ke20 discs/hubs. I did initially have rubbing on one side when I first fitted the rims/tyres to my ke16, but it worked out to be a bent strut housing, which I replaced.

^^^ Baby cack green on a ke10.... :fuzz: With the two-tone. The darker colour on top would look better.

Yes.

Have a look around at factory colours from other manufacturers from around the same era of the ke10. Of the ke10 factory colours, I've always thought they looked best in the green colour they were released in.

Sbox, from what I've seen over many years of playing with k series motors: Top is dished piston 4k/5k (small combustion chamber, metal plate on back of head with protrusions under no1 and no4 spark plug holes).. approx 28mm intake ports. middle, normal flattop 3k/4k (ke3x-ke70).... approx 25 mm intake ports (metal plate on back of head) bottom, k/3k bigport. (ke1x-ke2x).... approx 30 mm intake ports (has welschplug on the back of the head)

Sorry philbey, I'm going to hang onto them. I posted pics of them as I thought they were similar to the ones you were talking about from Perry, but it appears they are not after looking at their website. The ones on the HM header/Perry website look more like the 4-1's that I have on my ke16. snot35, if you can find a decent carb shop, you shouldn't have too many problems finding jets for tuning. The only hard parts to find really are the venturis, though you can get them on ebay if you look and don't mind bringing them from overseas. I am running the factory settings for a Mk1 1500 GT cortina on my warm 5k atm. You can find the base jetting here. On a 4k ideally you want to run smaller venturis and jet to suit, as every combo is different. If I can find my little book I'll get you the jetting I used on my old 4k.

Actually I worked out that the extractors in my ke16 are not Perry's. Not sure what they are as the metal brand tag has fallen off at some stage. They are a small tube 4-1 design, and fit the car a lot easier than pacemakers. I can't quite remember what the previous owner said they were... Hurricane comes to mind, but I'm not 100% sure. Looking through some pics on my computer I found some of my spare extractors which are earmarked for a ke10 I have stored at the mother-in-laws. They are 4-2-1 Perry's, which came off a mates ke20 club car. They look like they would fit a ke1x easier than 4-1 extractors as they are less bulky around the collector. The pipe would need to be cut just after the collector and rerouted to suit the ke1x. Pic attached compared to pacemakers. I can't comment on fitment of twin sidedrafts with extractors. I run a downdraft 28/36 DCD weber, which is by far the best allround performance/economy solution for a street K motor. Just as tunable as sidies having changable venturis, but with even better flexibility, drivability (once warm) and economy than a stock carb.

Yea do a compression test. I'd say your timing chain will be fine. Have you done a tune recently? Does it have an electronic or points dizzy? If it has an electronic dizzy timing shouldn't change. If it has points, they tend to close up over time due to rubbing block wear, which advances the timing and can make a motor ping, and lose power. If you were to change the valve stem seals, you can do them without removing the head, using an over head valve spring compressor and some rope. :P

Extractors for a ke1x.... Unless they were specifically designed for the car, it is a case of suck it and see. :P Even if they were designed for the car you can still have issues, as there is not much room for the exhaust to clear between the firewall/floorpan and steering components. I have 4-1 pacemakers which I bought from a wreckers. They were hanging on a wall and had a ke30 tag on them. I have used them through a progression of motors over 7-8 years. To make them fit, I had to cut the pipe just after the collector and have it rerouted to fit the floorpan of my ke15 which had a K (1077cc) motor in it at the time. Initially I had problems with one of the extractor pipes hitting the steering stop, so had to shim under the passenger side engine mount to raise the motor to stop contact. A bit later I fitted a slightly worked bigport 3k, and found it fitted perfectly without any shims as the motor was taller. Next I fitted a nice worked dished 4k, and had clearance problems with the extractors rubbing against the floorpan as the motor was taller again, which I resolved by fitting a modified engine mount on the manifold side to lower the motor slightly. 3 years or so ago I fitted a grunter 5k with no hassles, as its deck height was the same as the 4k it replaced. So you see, there are a few variables. You have the extractor design, plus you may need to modify the dump pipe after the collector. Then you need to take into account variances in the deck height of whatever motor you are using. Sorry, there is no definite answer. :P Then you have to decide how to route the exhaust as the gearbox mount is in the way. On my ke15, I went under it. On my ke16 (which was already done when I got it), the exhaust runs over the gbox mount which has had the shit beaten out of it for more clearance, but still rubs. Whatever you do, make sure you get a 3 bolt flange welded in. Makes life sooo much easier come engine change time, if you can easily remove the extractors from the car.

Yep, fitting a more efficient exhaust system can cause the fuel mixtures to be leaner. Usually increasing the carb jet sizes slightly will fix the problem. A 2 inch system is way to big for a standard 4k. Would be better suited to a fairly heavily worked 5k. One thing I have found with sports systems... For a given exhaust, as you go to larger capacity motors with more mods, the exhaust volume decreases, but gets deeper.

You might just need new valve stem seals and a timing chain. Valve stem seals harden over time and don't seal as well as they once did, allowing oil to get sucked down the guides. The 5ks come with single row timing chains standard, which stretch fairly quickly. Single row setups are also prone to fast tensioner wear. Badly worn single row setups eventually get to the point the chain can slap against the inside of the timing cover and wear a groove in it, making a hell of a noise. Note also that when the chains stretch the cam, and dizzy timing get thrown off, hurting performance. A good indicator of a worn timing chain is if you put a timing light on the car at idle and the crank timing mark jumps around. Do a compression check, if it checks out ok (say around 155 psi or higher), then consider fitting new guides and timing chain setup. If you were to do the timing chain, change it to a double row setup... Old 3k's make excellent donor's (for double row gears), as they come with double row setups stock.

Could be a sticky PCV valve. If the PCV valve isn't opening properly the crankcase will pressurise and blow oil up the breather pipe in the base of the airfilter. Pull the PCV valve out and shake it. Make sure it rattles. Give it a good cleanout with petrol or carby cleaner. If the PCV valve is gummed up the car won't idle as good as it should, as the PCV system acts as a controlled air leak.

Cam, try Walkers.

I just had a look in a haynes ke30 manual. It seems they came with both the ND starters and bosch ones. From the pics the bosch ones were longer. Maybe they are what I have sitting in my trailer of parts?

No when I had the angled solenoid starter (probably ke10), the pipe didn't touch. From what I remember it was very close though. Are ke70 bosch or ND? All the starters in the pics I put up are ND. I thought ke70's had longer bosch starters.

Well just took a few pics. In the first pic it shows both types of starters I have here. The angled solenoid ones are in the top row. The other type are the same as in my ke15 and ke16. All are ND. Something interesting I realised when looking at the starters, is that I used to run an angled solenoid starter (circled, small holes, no thread) at one stage with my pacemakers. This starter I burnt out when I had a pressure plate semi-self destruct behind my old warm 4k. The starter is a bit chewed around the drive pinion from bits of metal that jammed the flywheel, and seized it... Hence me burning the starter out trying to crank the motor over. LOL! I'm thinking maybe there could have been different models of pacemakers. Pretty sure mine had a ke30 tag on them when I bought them from a wreckers. This was over ten years ago.... I did have to cut the pipe at the collector and get a new dump pipe made up to clear the floor pan in my ke15.

Now I'm not totally sure what they are from. I had a look at my ke15 and ke16 and they both have the same starter with the more upright solenoid. I have at least 2 finger widths clearance between the solenoid and the nearest extractor pipe with the pacemakers on the ke15. The ke16 has Perry (I think, the brand tag fell off) 4 into 1s which have HEAPs of clearance. I had a look in the shed at my spares and I have 4 starters. 2 have the more angled solenoid, and 2 have the more upright one. The more upright ones have larger threaded mounting holes. They are all the same length. If I can find my camera I'll get some pics. I am not totally sure what they belong to... I don't think they are ke30 ND ones, as I'm pretty sure they were longer?? But who knows it has been about 10 years since I last played with ke30's. From memory I have some longer ND starters in a trailer of parts at my parents about 40 mins away so I can't easily compare them. Anyway, I just found my camera. I'll take a couple of pics of the starters I have at hand. Doug

Interesting. I never had problems with mine and I run the early nippondenso short ke1x starters.... My solenoid sits straight up. I am also running pacemaker extractors. I have 5k with a ke70 5 speed though, if that makes any difference.

If you are going to media blast, ground walnut shells are the way to go from what I've read on the subject. machg, looks like you have a bit of work ahead. Considering it's rarity it is definitely worth the effort.

Nice looking catch can that one. I think the catch can would be the least of his worries. The dellortos would breach ADR's... But then again seeing as Justins' car looks so neat and stock, I doubt he would have many hassles from the boys in blue.

Yep, use the ke20 disc brake bearing kit. The bearings are identical to the ke10 drum ones, just the seals are different for discs. I've replaced the bearings on both my ke15 with ke20 hubs and ke30 discs and my ke16 with ke20 discs in the last 3-4 months. I used ke20 disc brake bearing kits.

Cameron if you can remove the guides yourself, why not remove a set from a later head and install them in your bigport head. Once you have done that then get your engine reconditioner to install a set of k-line liners.

Tailgaters, especially stupid young f@$ks in camrys. Had one today going to Toowoomba. There was a ute going about 20 kays under the limit up front, then another car, then us followed by a stupid impatient camry driver. The guy was sitting less than half a car length up my ass. I couldn't go any faster than the cars in front, so why the f@$k did he think pushing me was going to get him where he was going any quicker. My defence is simple, sit on the line so the dick can't see ahead (works 90% of the time). Unfortunately this toss didn't get the idea, so I would accelerate up the the car in front, then back off forcing him to brake. This didn't get the desired results so I resorted to knocking the car back a couple of gears so it would slow down quicker, which made him back off a bit for a while. After a bit there was some clear road so I was able to overtake both the cars in front in one go. The camry driver could only manage one at a time, by which stage we were over a kay up the road. Funny thing is once he got past the cars he didn't catch us and was happy to sit on the speed limit..... Go figure?

Steve you have some nice cars there. :lolcry: Is the overrated red one Lou's old car?