Felix

This looks interesting. 20psi by just free revving it.

The ACL part number for K series extractor gaskets is DSF24.

I've heard of guys running the toyota blowers in drawthru mode on datsun Aseries motors, having condensation form on the blower under boost. Obviously they are running the blowers well inside their efficiecy range at well under the blowers maximum rated rpm. The fuel vapour running through them has an intercooling effect. Naturally there are drawbacks to anything and in this case a backfire wouldn't be a good thing. A supercharger is safer when it comes to tuning and detonation, as the cylinder pressures are more constant at full load throughout the entire rev range. A turbo motor will see low cylinder pressures off boost and pressures will increase dramatically when the turbo comes on boost. Each form of forced induction has its' negatives and positives. There are an awful lot of variables to consider including component selection, boost levels, charge cooling, compression ratios, timing etc.

Yes, welding on some washers or something would prevent things moving if you were to hit a bad pothole. I was actually referring to the holes where the lower suspension arm mounts bolt to the xmember. Doug

philbey, are you after rubbers for the pop out windows? If so, I was talking to an older gent with a beautiful restored ke16 a few years back at the All Toyota Day. He used some off the shelf windlacing (used around door openings) that came with a rubber attached for his rear pop out windows.

With the alignment, have you had a good look at the front end to see where it is out? You could have a bent arm, bent xmember or hopefully not a bent chassis rail. You could possibly slot the xmember where the lower arm mounts to allow some adjustment. If you do this, you will need to either weld a washer or something to the xmember to prevent the alignment getting knocked out easily again. My ke16 had a problem like this when I got it that I wasn't immediately aware of. It wasn't until I fitted a set of 185's and got a wheel alignment that I found out about it. The guy doing the wheel alignment had all sorts of problems as the xmember had been slotted on one side to account for prior accident damage. Also I then had bad tyre scrubbing on the strut on that side. I replaced the strut housing, lower arm and xmember and it was all good. With the steering box all you can really do is what philby suggested and keep an eye out for a good one. Sometimes you can adjust them up a bit to remove play, but if the worm is badly worn it'll still be sloppy around center and tighten up when turning.

Check the linkages like Sbox suggested. Sounds like something isn't setup or adjusted right.

Check out the Lovells website. :poke:

I might come and check out the ATD this year. ke10rolla, if you're still trying to sell your ke10, the ATD would be the place to put a "for sale" sign on it.

Well I sure hope your workmanship is better than your grasp on the english language. Have fun. :poke:

A supercharged motor drives like it is a larger displacement motor from idle, right through the rev range. It isn't about what is better. It is about what suits you, your driving style and the intended application.

Nothing is free, even for turbos. Seems to be little understood, but turbos create backpressure in the exhaust ports, creating exhaust gas reversion back into the engine cylinder diluting the intake charge. Me, I'll go with a supercharger on the 5k in my ke15. It is a light car, and I enjoy spirited driving through the twisties, so drivability and a linear predictable power delivery is of more interest than outright HP.

Agree totally. :D

No, coln72 is saying he removed the extra weighted butterfly (high speed valve) that sits above the secondary butterfly.

The stock carbs have a "high speed valve" in front of the secondary butterfly. It is a weighted butterfly, which does give a vacuum secondary type effect. The problem is that the stock carbs don't have transition circuit on the secondaries like webers do. You might find that you end up with a lean flat spot. An easy experiment would be just to tie the high speed valve open and take it for a drive.

Have fun. :) :D

I did. Think about what I wrote. There are many competition K motors out there that are still slanted and don't have problems. 5 minutes with a die grinder to clean up the casting flash in the head where the oil drains back helps. Seeing as you aren't modding your sump, is your oil pickup going to sit at a 30 degree angle to the bottom of the sump? Is your mate with the 100 rwkw 3k helping?

The DCD's use the same adaptor plate as a 32/36DGV. If you can't find a filter designed for the DCD, it is simple to mod one to fit from a DGV. Ideally you should find some smaller venturis for the DCD if you run it on a 3k. 23/25mm would suit a stock/warm 3k. You have to look for them, but they are out there... ebay UK.

I don't really understand why you would bother with uprighting a K motor if you are still just going to run a downdraft carby. The reason they uprighted them was so that the inlet manifold for twins had a straighter smoother shot into the ports, thats where they made their extra power. If you upright your motor and run a downdraft manifold, you are going to put a 30 degree kink in your intake path. LOL. Plus you will need custom extractors as any off the shelf ones will most likely hit the floor, wanting to point through the firewall. Just sounds like a lot of f@$king around for no good reason.

The horn cover just pulls off.

I can tell you from personal experience that the leaf does have a swaybar effect. :hmm: Once the car leans on it and the leaf flattens out on one side (suspension arm level), it limits further body roll. Removing the leaf and fitting cut ke20 coils (still captive) makes for the front end having less initial body roll, but it will roll a hell of a lot further when the suspension is loaded up in a corner. I found that under extreme cornering, like ripping into a tight roundabout, you could lift the inside back tyre off the ground. Good for single wheelers out of corners, but not for traction. Adding a Whiteline front bar, and 185/60r13 A539s transformed the handling of my ke15. I've been running without the front leaves for about 5 years with no hassles. The problem with radically lowering a car is it screws with the suspension geometry. Ideally your front arms should be parallel to the ground or higher, otherwise you should add RCA's.

The ke70 mounts don't mount the motor further forward. They are taller, and may not sit on the ke20 xmember properly.

They don't.

TE278U, my ke16 has similar damage in the same place, though not quite as bad. Nice looking ke11 you have there. :POSTPICS!:

Use your ke20 mounts. spittao, a ke70 5 speed is exactly the same length as any other k40 or k50 box.