Felix

a booster won't make the car brake any better it makes the pedal touchier and takes away pedal feel in a light weight ke10 it is easier to lock up the brakes in an emergency/surprise braking situation especially in the wet. you wont get the later stud pattern on the rear of your car easily if you keep your current diff you will need to get the axles and drums redrilled to 4x114.3 a later diff is wider and will need the mounting points brake lines and handbrake cables modified to fit.

From memory it was just the strut to caliper hose that needs changing to suit your caliper.

You need to use ke20 front hubs if changing from drums to retain the stock 4x110PCD. Oh, and a note: This is a Forum, we don't charge by the letter so feel free to throw in some punctuation. Personally I feel if someone makes an effort to make there post clear, I'll feel more inclined to reply in detail.

FAQ link. Read through "Upgrades for KE1x" and wherever you see ke30, substitute for ke55. Not totally sure on the backing plates, you may need ke30 ones. They will work fine with the stock master cylinder. If you upgrade to ke30/55 discs you will need to move to at least 13" rims. Stock 12" rims will hit the calipers.

After they regrind a cam, they usually stamp the grind number on it. If your cam keeps trashing lifters one of the lobes is probably screwed. When the cam originally went in were the lifters refaced/replaced?

Don't do it. You get much, much better brake feel and pedal feedback non-boosted. You don't need one in such a light car. If you want an upgrade, move to an early galant (or similar) non-boosted dual circuit master cyl.

Personally I don't give a shit about all the offtopic crap. If I wanted to chat, I'd go join/create a chatroom somewhere, use msn or join a womens group. This website is primarily for information sharing about corollas, not mindless spamming. If there wasn't so much crap floating around there would be a lot more technical posts. I know myself quite often I come for a look and just go elsewhere after seeing page upon page of useless crap. I'm not here to socialize, I've got a missus and 3 kids so I don't need to participate in mindless dribble to feel a warm fuzzy sense of belonging. Check out this forum , it would have to be one of the best most complete model specific resources I've ever seen. The photo tutorials are awesome. The people get along great without whinging and bitching all the time.... I guess it has a lot to do with the mean age group and intelligence level of the participants.

Maybe turn the post count off in the regional forums then..... I notice there is hardly any activity there.

If you want to chat to people in your area, why not use the Regional subforums more?

ke2x hoses: FRONT WHEEL Hose L/RH 01/1971 - 12/1974 ALL BODY TYPES, SEDAN, DISC/DRUM H1164 FRONT WHEEL Hose-Chas to Bkt L/RH 01/1971 - 12/1974 ALL BODY TYPES, SEDAN, DISC/DRUM H1163 From PBR website.

Me wearing a stupid hat.

I've been thinking about this. I think your biggest problem would be the advance curve if you are running 11:1 comp with 200psi cranking pressures. Unfortunately compression is another one of those things you can get too carried away with and lose power and performance (just like with big cams and carbs). Check out the scans below.

You need a simple o2 meter setup. A heated 4 wire narrowband o2 sensor with a silicon chip fuel mixture display unit is an awesome tool for tuning carbed motors. The setup in the pics below cost me about $100 4-5 years ago. That included second hand o2 sensor, big nut (o2 sensor screws into) I ground to fit the pipe nicely, the FMD kit, and for some guy to drill the exhaust and weld the nut on.

My ke16 had a front mounted thermo fan when I got it. It tended to run on the hot side. I removed it and fitted a plastic engine driven fan, the car ran cooler afterwards. Fitting a cooler thermostat, and higher psi radiator cap also helps. How's the mixtures and timing? If it is running lean or has excessive timing it will run hotter than it should.

springersrolla, you have the ribbed 4k block. Attached is a pic of the earlier block with less reinforcement. Think it is a ke55 4k block. Think this pic was originally from superjamie.

Why not make a vacuum connection across all the manifold runners. Like a vacuum plenum type thing, and feed that to the dizzy vacuum advance. Vacuum advance gives better part throttle drivability and added fuel economy. Cool little car you've got there. Good effort. :)

I see the biggest problem in your setup. The 32/36 weber. They work best on 1.8 to 2.3L motors. A little 1.3L 4K does not generate enough vacuum for proper carb venturi signal strength, especially in the idle to midrange. A weber like a 32/32 DGV or 28/36 DCD would give you a lot more low end torque and throttle response. Either one would bolt to your existing adapter plate, plus changing the diff gearing will make your car go MUCH better. Have you tried a stock carb at all? With some rejetting and a decent filter, it would probably give better allround performance then your 32/36 at the expense of a couple of HP in the top end.

you forgot to mention... Gearing. To keep it in its' powerband: Diff ratio. ie if you have a 4.1 diff, fit a 4.3 or smaller diameter tyres. Close ratio gearset for gearbox. The revs don't drop so much between gears, motor doesn't fall off cam. Sadly these are not freely or cheaply available.

608: Rough idle, strong upper mid range and top end, modified engines only. Min 10.5:1 comp ratio. RPM RANGE 3500-7500 38-72/75-40 290°/295° duration 453 thou lift :D no wonder it has no low end. The price you pay for a lumpy idle. The best fix would be a milder cam.

17% :D Time to refinance through another bank. Interest rates are now at the lowest they have been for ages. 4.5-8%.

You live at home with your parents. You would not have a clue about how much it costs to raise and educate 3 kids. Maybe when you grow up, move out into the real world and have a family of your own, then you will realise you have it easy now. As for the bonus, when I see it, I'll believe it. Ours would just go towards a house deposit.

LOL. Makes me laugh, people who whinge about credit card rates. That's the price you pay for instant gratification. It is simple, only buy what you can afford. If you can't afford it, save until you can. Get a visa debit card and spend your own funds that you have already earnt.

Filthy

LOL, chewed radiator hoses. I've done that quite a few times. Not much room between the lower rad outlet and the alternator fans. I use ke30 lower rad hoses, much easier to get. I just cut and shut them with a bit of pipe.

We picked up our new family car today. It is a black mica '87 E32 BMW 730i, with black leather interior and 16" alloys. :dance: It has the 3Liter M30 6 cyl auto with 140,000 kays on the clock, Absolutely beautiful to drive. It is unbelievable how such a big car can handle like it does, awesome brakes, very sporty suspension, firm but not harsh with bugger all body roll. Of course it had to piss down rain, but to drive it in the wet down the highway at 100 kays it feels like you are doing 60 in the dry. It goes pretty well for an older 1600kg car with a 3 liter auto, really lifts her skirts and gets going once it hits 3500 rpm. Makes me laugh reading the owners manual.... Do not exceed 170 km/h if the self levelling suspension warning light is on. Do not exceed 200 km/h in 3rd gear. Pity there are no autobahns local.