Felix

Blind Melon - Walk

Not bad. BMW's have the sweetest sounding sixes, though I wouldn't say no to a 2jzgte in my E32.

The quick and dirty solid lifter conversion: My hydraulic lifters had the circlips removed and the guts emptied out. The pushrod seats were dropped back into the bottom of the lifters effectively making them solids. 3k (early shorter bigport type) pushrods fit nicely with the 4k adjustable rocker gear, though were just a touch too long. The tappet adjustment screws only just tapped the underside of the rocker cover, which I clearanced with a dremel and 5 minutes of spare time. Note I am running a 5k head. Actually thinking about it, I'm running a tighe 113 cam (400 thou) which has the same timing specs as a 104, but with slightly less lift. The 104 cam with 423thou lift "might" have issues with 3k pushrods, needing shorter K (1077cc) pushrods to make things run harmoniously. There is only a half mm in it at the valve (between the 2 cams) so it may very well be a non-issue. I think ideally the oil gallery to the lifters in the block should be restricted/blocked, but I never got around to it. Never had any oil pressure problems at all, but I did shim the oil pump bypass spring approx 3mm to up pressure when I put it all together. I'm not sure if I have any spare full sets of 3k pushrods here. I'll have a look this evening when I find a box to pack up your carb stuff. :lol:

Both of the different types of rocker pedestals (early alloy, late cast steel) sit the rocker shaft at the same height above the head. Yep just get your cam reground to solid specs. I run gutted hydraulic lifters in my 5k (5k head), with 3k pushrods (early shorter bigport type) and 4k rocker gear. Cost=NOTHING. :lol: Still running great going on 5 years now. The valvetrain is good for over 8500 RPM with holden double valve springs. Makes me laugh when I hear the effort and expense some go to converting a 5k to solids.

Victims Something that was in the kids school newsletter: If you don't like something...... change it! If you can't change it...... change your attitude. Don't complain. sums up life well.

If you can buy it for $200 go for it. A 4k with similar mods is going to be quicker, due to more torque. In a porky arsed ke55, you would be better off going with forced induction, or putting your money towards a conversion with something like a 2/3T or 4age.

look when that thread started..500+ pages. I just used their words LOL. I'd love to take this for a run. V12 E30 Got stretch?

VWvortex dope shizzz thread Check it out for some ideas for your ride. All sorts of styles, trends and looks. Heaps of pics there, should keep you going for ages. Seen some cool rolla pics in amongst them. Edit: renamed thread

LOL, I found this just looking around and found it amusing. It is bizarre, but sort of well executed at the same time. More here

Nice ke17 you have there. Just turbo a 5k if you need more power. A couple of guys have made 140+rwkw with them. With the 4agze, you are going to be cutting, hacking, plus at the end of the day it will be a prick to work on. Not to mention destroying the originality of what is a very rare car. Anyway it is your car, do what you want.

My opinion.... Don't bother. You would be better off putting the money towards some 14x5.5" tarago/celica (ra40/60) steel rims. Then you can fit some decent performance tyres in 185/60. By all means paint the rims and put on some trim rings. In the end you will have an "improved" stock looking car. The wider, stickier, less flexy tyres will enable you to gain more benefit from future suspension mods. Later on add something like a set of kings low springs to the front, heavy duty shocks all round, poly bushes on the swaybar. These simple subtle mods will totally transform the handling of your car, enabling it to corner twice as hard, and set up the chassis to easily take more power later from an engine conversion. Personally putting whitewalls on anything after a ke2x looks stupid in 90% of cases. Not many pull it off well, most fail.

A normal 3k and 4k both share the same cam grind and have 246 degs duration (seat to seat). The only factory improved cams were those found in the k-b and 3k-b twincarb motors which have 256 degs of duration. As philbey said a regrind would be the best option. As for the raceworthiness of the 3k... being in a ke30 I wouldn't bother. If it was in a ke10 well that is a different story in a car 150kgs lighter. With something like a ke30, I'm of the thinking that you are pretty much just wasting time and money that could be better spent towards a more appropriately sized motor for the car. I'll never understand how toyota could release such small 1.2-1.3L pushrod motors, when competitors like Ford were fitting their similar sized Escorts with 2L OHC motors.

Well I can't say I really listened to many tunes in my corolla, as I pulled the stereo out of my ke15. Really the car is just to noisy to bother listening to the stereo, so I just listened to the engine music. You have to raise your voice at cruise speed to talk in the car. Sound quality is not an option. In my E32 7er (the mafia staff-car :hmm: ) it is a totally different story. The car is so comfy and quiet I actually enjoy listening to music. B-52's Blind Melon The Clash Metallica Offspring Presidents of the USA Primus Prodigy Radiators Rage against the machine Sex Pistols Unkle Violent Femmes White Stripes

I totally agree. Also read anything you can get from David Vizard. For a street engine 4-2-1 extractors are the go. In general they pick up the low to midrange at the expense of a few HP up around peak revs compared to 4into1's. For a street motor peak HP is nowhere near as important as the area under the curve. Realistically you are only hitting peak revs a very small percentage of the time you are driving. Just like carbs and cams, extractors are just another component that should be matched to the rest of the overall package. LittleRedSpirit, what did the gearbox you are running originally come out of? you can't get a close ratio gearset to keep the motor further up in it's powerband on changes?

Pretty much, but there are a few subtle things to be aware of. There are two types of guards on the ke1x. The earlier ones have a more pronounced "eyebrow" over the side indicators, also the hole for the bumper end is lower compared to the later guards. The later front ends have the front indicators/parkers sitting higher as does the bumper. If you mix and match you can have issues with alignment.

Yep, the MT8009 (kelpro) crosses over to A1238 (Mackay). The mounts are the same from ke10's through to the ke55s for both manual and auto boxes. Mackay Rubber mount catalog Buy the MT8009 mount online

What's wrong with the old 2L pinto? Heaps of potential with performance parts fairly easy to come by. I remember Brian Munroe running 9 sec quarters in his Mk2 escort with a turboed 2L SOHC motor back in the early 90's. Might see if I can find and scan the old mag articles, the guy was a true innovator.

MUTTON whitewalls on a ke/ae7x thing = mutton dressed up as a lamb.

A couple of my favourites from The Radiators. Gimme Head Fess Song Classic aussie rock, loved them since I first heard them in the mid 80's. Definitely NSFW.

:) and use the search function. do some research yourself. it is not hard all the answers are already here.

I'll try and remember mine: 75 ke30 2 door: First car drove it 6 years. Sold it to brother who ran it into the ground over 4-5 years. gone. 79 td gemini sedan: missus' first car. sold Series 3 mazda capella: was to be a project car, but too much rust so sold it. ke20: its' nickname was rusty. we rolled it on its' side to remove the motor and box and raided other parts. sold. 74 ke30 2 door: bought for HEAPS of parts. sold 68 ke15 sprinter: had it for 11 years now. drove it 6 months til rego expired, then it sat 3 years in pieces until I needed it and have had it registered 8 years now. Nearly time for a rebuild. 64 EH holden station sedan (wagon lol): cool car, missus favourite all time. we drove it 4 years. sold it to brother who trashed it. now rip (rusting in peace) at my parents. ke10 tan car: parts car. no motor or box in it, but still other wise complete and restorable with rust it's worst issue. sitting at parents. ke10 purple car: absolute shitter, bought off some guy who used house paint and didn't mask anything. I stripped it of all good parts and put it out of its' misery... now cubed. 72 HQ holden sedan: factory 202 4speed. was a good solid car which was a driver/work in progress. sadly it got banana'd by a tree which stopped my missus falling of mt nebo. It died a valiant death protecting its' charge in what could have been a tragedy. sitting at parents. HQ holden sedan: parts car. sitting at parents. HQ holden one tonner ute: 186 4speed with tipper tray. we gave up on it after deciding it needed a new cab. sitting at parents. ke16 wagon: was missus daily driver for 4 years. in storage for later resto. ke10 white car: fairly clean, could have been straightened a bit more before the previous owners painted it. would be an easy one to get going again. sitting at missus' mothers house. 92 holden nova (ae92) sedan: seized motor, I was going to fix it but the car did nothing for me. now cubed. ke25: was going to fix it up, but I found the ke25 shape did nothing for me while sitting next to my ke15. sold. 89 subaru liberty AWD wagon: not a bad car at all. quite nice to drive. missus current driver. E32 BMW 730i : FUKENGRUVEN. had it for just over a month. this car is soooo nice to drive. it is the current project/weekend family cruiser. I was looking at a falcadore for a family car, but really they are so common and boring. I have never driven a car so comfortable yet sporting, the handling is unbelievable for its size. geez it gets some attention. it is a big black tough looking limo thing that is stock apart from later BMW 16" rims. one of my mates refers to it as the "mafia-mobile".

:)

From what I've seen: Ke10-b's were the first of the ke1x series to have local content. They are all AMI badged, and don't have the York Motors plate like the earlier imported cars did. As you stated they are basically exactly the same as a ke11, with a 3k, the later dash, front bumper, guards, front indicators/parkers, tail lights, grill, etc. Has yours got a Borg Warner diff in it? Most of the ke10-b's I've seen over the years do. If it was a ke11 it would have ke11 at the start of the chassis number.

ke 25 diff mounts are wider, plus the PCD is 4x110. You can put (jap) ke30 axles in a (jap) ke25 housing to change PCD but have to trim the axle splines by about 3 mm per side.