Felix

With 2 grand+ you may as well just start out with a conversion.

Just make a 4age head fit on a 5k block if you are really bored and have money to waste. One day out of curiosity I put a 4afe head gasket on top of a 5k block. The bore spacing is pretty much spot on, and the head bolts were just out from memory. Obviously you'd have to suss out the oil and water galleries and work out a cam and oilpump drive setup.

The fuel pressure in a mechanical pump is set by the diaphragm spring. Once the set pressure is reached the pump sorta freewheels. Try it, block off the outlets and operate the lever, after a couple of pumps the resistance on the lever reduces.

look on carsales, they go for $23K upwards.

Don't forget your golden casket ticket. READ: Rollaclub Forum Rules Are you in primary school or something? Use a spellchecker. You are about one click away from having your thread closed.

36mm intake 29mm exhaust They are the same for all motors, except K (1077cc) which has 34mm intake, and 28mm exhaust. note. I'm not sure on 7k sizes. The valve sizes stated in the tosco manual are aftermarket tosco (preTRD) parts.

:dance: They have both got the same stroke.

No worries, I just thought you were replacing a stuffed pump. About 2 years ago I had to replace a fuel pump on one of my cars. I had 5 old pumps on the shelf and they all had issues: 2 with cracked diaphrams, 2 with bad valves and one with a buggered seal on the arm. I bought a new pump. I don't really think the return makes that much difference. The earlier cars didn't have a return line.

At least 90% of them would have hydraulics. A very very low percentage would have solids from the factory.

Do yourself a favour and buy either a fuel pump kit, or a new fuel pump. Things that can go wrong are the diaphram splitting, the valves die and don't pump, and the seal on the pushrod hardens and leaks. There are a couple of new fuel pumps on ebay atm for just under $50 delivered.

Congrats to you and the missus. Make sure you stock up on as much sleep as you can before the little one gets home. Does the baby seat fit in the back of the corolla?

Maybe sell your current car and buy one that already has a 4agze conversion or similar. Save yourself a heap of cash and work, and you'll have a car that is way quicker than what you are used to now.

Yea the 104 should go well with a slight lope at idle. I found one of my David Vizard books today. I'll put up a few interesting quotes: "Camshafts: The camshaft, more so than any other engine component, critically influences the selection and function of virtually every other engine system. Consider: The camshaft directly affects the carburetion, compression ratio, and to a lesser degree, even the chassis and driveline must be "built around" the camshaft. Put simply, cam design dominates part and full-throttle horsepower output, and selecting this component is one of the most important decisions that an engine builder can make." "If you are not building a race engine, don't take the apparent "short cut" to high horsepower by using a race-engine camshaft; you'll instead take the short cut to poor performance and reliability, lousy throttle response, and downright embarrassing low-speed acceleration." "As a rough guideline I have found that cams with up to 270 degrees of seat-to-seat intake timing are quite suitable as replacements for stock camshafts. For high performance street-strip applications where power is more important, I draw the line at about 285 degrees of intake duration. Cams with 285 to 295 degrees are mild race cams, and a any cam with greater than 295 degrees of intake timing is almost certainly a serious race cam."

Your cam data makes more sense now. Don't worry about the 50thou figures too much. With overlap base the calcs on the advertised figures.

^^^^^ coln72's cam has 77 degrees overlap Inlet opening + Exhaust closing = Overlap where both the inlet and exhaust valves are open at the same time. 41+36=77 degrees overlap.

Your timing specs for your cam you quoted are messed up. What cam is in your missus car, ie grind number? A Tighe 104 has 215 degs duration at 50thou lift. It has 50 degrees overlap. A stock 4k cam has 32 degrees overlap. :D

I've used a tighe 113 which is the same as a 104 but with 0.5mm less lift at the valve. Great cam, have used it in a 4k for 3 years or so before putting it in a 5k with solid lifter conversion. It made best power between 3500-8000 in the 4k. In the 5k best power is between 2500-7000. Just keep in mind that a cam recommended by someone with a 5k will move the powerange up by approx an extra 1000 rpms in a 4k. Also things like extractor design will move the powerband around. 4-2-1's will have a wider powerband starting lower in the rev range, and not so much up top (effectively like running a smaller cam). 4 into 1's will have less low end and make more power in the mid to top end than 4-2-1s. Carbs are the same... an oversized carb will need more revs to get into its powerange, whereas a carb on the small side will get into its' power band sooner but also run out of puff sooner. Robert the Tighe 104 cam has 50 degrees overlap. Check out the camshaft animation

I don't know if solder would work. I'd look at metal epoxy like JB Weld.

I was digging the rims and flares up to the point the tyres were whitewalled. To me the tough fattened jap look clashes with the granny style of the whitewalls and venetions. Full marks for effort though, it is one tidy ke20.

That thing looks like it could almost be the twin of my ke16 wagon (except mine has glass in the back). Mine has similar condition bodywork with mazda rims and the same roof racks. Get a whiteline front swaybar, and fit a set of heavy duty ke2/3/5x front shocks to tighten up the front end for starters. The later shocks need a spacer, search my posts for more info. 13x7's aren't going to fit under the guards of a ke1x without flaring them. An alternative is you could always fit a set of decent 185/60's to your existing rims which will help handling and roadholding. Painting the rims black, adding chrome trim rings, chrome wheel nuts and center caps will lift their appearance, or find a set of nice 13" hubcaps. You could even look into getting the tyres whitewalled or a set of flappers I guess. The heavy throttle pedal is to do with the twin carbs and them having a return spring on each carb. I've run them in the past and I can't say I'm really a fan of them. A 28/36 DCD weber (set and forget) off of a mk1 1500 GT cortina is a much sweeter carb, which gives a much nicer pedal feel with more tunability, responsiveness, fuel economy and power than the twin aisans. If you decide on a flat black, go for more of a satin black. Gloss black and chrome would look sweet, though you would need it to be perfectly straight. Does your panelvan have a fold down back seat, like the 2 door wagons do?

You could always go a commonwhore v6. Cheap as, and good for laying skids. See if you can find a manual one. A 308 does sound much nicer though. A carbed one would be much easier to initially set up than EFI from the get go.

Potentially WAY more expensive. Why not just skim the head you've already got if it is in good overall condition. If you are serious about doing a decent rebuild you should get the head skimmed so you know it is flat. Then you don't have to worry about a blown/leaky head gasket down the track. Costs like $60. Cheap insurance. Do it properly the first time. Sure you could use a 3k bigport head, but then you have you buy one, for say $100. Problem is they are old, have a crap valve stem sealing arrangement, and most likely have worn guides... The later valves/valve guides and valve stem seals can be fitted, but you are then looking at a heap of $$$ for the parts, plus fitment for no real benefit. Also consider that being older they have more chance of water jacket corrosion so factor in some welding before they can be skimmed.

Did you CC it? The original may have been cooked and replaced at some stage in its' life with whatever was easily and cheaply available.

I'd take those numbers in the FAQ with a grain of salt. That list is all over the place. The only ones that really mean anything are the early bigport ones with an actual part number on them. Basically you have 3 head types: early k/3k bigport: with the 22010 or 24010 prefix - welschplug on back normal smallport 3k/4k 4k/5k dished piston heads: have those lumps under 1 and 4 plug holes. - small combustion chambers