Felix

Couldn't tell you offhand exactly how much to plane your head. I'd be fitting a reground cam and skimming the head 40thou or so. You'll be making a lot more power from a cam change than from the increase in compression.

Ebay. There are 2 corolla 1100 workshop manuals on there atm.

springersrolla I'd be looking at this 32/32 DGV. They go really well on a worked 4k or 5k. Way better than a 32/36.

springersrolla I'd be looking at this 32/32 DGV. They go really well on a worked 4k or 5k. Way better than a 32/36.

I just had a look at a couple of stock carbs. Unfortunately there is no way to crack open the secondary throats. You would really need to drill holes in the butterflys to be able to get the full effect from the idle circuit in them. Attached is a few old pics of my Digital A/F ratio meter and O2 sensor.

That is a good point that I overlooked. With a bigger cam the throttle plates need to be opened further to enable more airflow due to less vacuum from the increased cam overlap. The problem is (as Rob pointed out) that the Idle drillings in the carb bore are ineffective as the throttle plate is opened too far. I've run into this before when I ran a 32/32 DGV, though it was easy to fix as the model DGV I was running had a throttle plate adjustment screw on the secondary valve, which enabled me to open the secondary and close up the primary butterfly to get the idle circuit running properly. A simple fix I've seen is to drill small holes in the primary throttle plate. How big or how many would need experimentation. Another way would be to open the secondary butterfly slightly at idle, so the primary could be closed up. I'd have to have a look at a stock carb to see if this is a possibility. Maybe this arve if I get time.

On the main circuit, yes it will give more responsiveness, but possibly at the expense of fuel economy. Really the only way is to find out by trial and error. I've found that fitting a narrow band O2 sensor with a digital A/F ratio meter is an awesome tuning tool for carbs. Obviously it isn't as precise as a wide band setup, but it is infinitely better than shooting in the dark. Makes setting up a carb a couple of hour affair if you have a selection of jets available. The setup in my ke15 owes me just over $100 with a second hand O2 sensor, the kit and getting an 18x1.5mm nut (ground to match the curve of the exhaust) welded into the exhaust. If you are going to do this, use a heated 4 wire O2 sensor. I'll see if I can dig up a few pics of my O2 meter setup off my other PC.

Jimpoole, you're all good mate. :dance: Have a look HERE for a good article on Air/Fuel Ratios. It is written more focused on EFI systems but really a carb isn't much different, just less precise.

WGMG: The Russell Ingall driver safe add about driver position. How stupid is that. If you have your right leg resting against the door, how are you supposed to quickly get to the brake in an emergency situation? Would add an extra second to your reaction time.

I wonder if maybe the bore of the clutch cylinders have developed a lip on the inside (like in an engine piston bore), from in their previous application? If so, and you are forcing the piston in further, the seals will have a hard time keeping up. A new clutch m/cyl would probably be the best bet. Maybe alter your pushrod length as you have stated, to ensure the piston doesn't bottom out.

As I said above: Don't buy the Superpro front spring eye bushes for the rear suspension - SPF0048K. Their catalog is wrong, I bought a set (in the shed somewhere) and they are too big. They are actually for LATE ke2x which use larger diameter bushes than the early ke2x and ke1x.

That is on the cruise, not at idle. At idle the mixture will be richer than at cruise revs. springersrolla has only made a small step up in the main jets. They shouldn't make a difference to the idle, as at idle the carb shouldn't be drawing on the primary main jet unless there is a problem. Can you see fuel coming from the Auxillary Venturi (or boost venturi in the attached image) at idle? If so there is a problem with the idle circuit of your carb. If fuel is coming from the Auxillary Venturi at idle the carb is running on the primary circuit.

does that carb have a fuel cutoff solenoid? If so is it working properly? Some of the real early carbs have a blank off bolt that goes in where the cutoff solenoid is on the later carbs. Removal of the cutoff solenoid makes the stock carbs way more reliable. Might not be your problem, but it is pretty basic to check.

You can use a screwdriver to turn the oil pump to align it for the tang at the base of the dizzy. Go HERE and read the Camshaft Replacement article. It outlines how the dizzy should be setup.

Following is guide for camshaft replacement I wrote years ago on the oldcorollas group. A lot of it also pertains to timing chain replacement: When you do the cam, Degrease engine before hand. I always set the engine with cylinder 1 on TDC on the firing stroke. Set the engine with the timing mark on the pulley on the TDC mark. Look at the cap note where no1 lead goes. Should be inline with the second spark plug hole in the head. Pull off the cap, if the rotor button points to where no1 lead was your set. If it points to four, turn the engine over 360degrees. Once you have the radiator out loosen the crank pully bolt before you rip into the engine. A bit of compression helps here, put in gear with the handbrake on. Get a big spanner or breaker bar and your favourite big hammer, and belt the shit out of it until it undoes. Cheaper than an impact wrench :wink: Watch the spanner or socket doesn't slip, or you may strip the head. Most of the time you can pry the crank pulley off with a couple of big flatheads. Some pull off, usually ones out of the car. :yes: A couple of long bolts through the 2 threaded holes in the pulley will move a stubborn one. Open the engine up, take out the rocker setup remove bolts outside in, remove pushrods and fishout the lifters, maintaining the order. About this time you will be cursing if you haven't maintained frequent oil changes. raise the car on stands and drop the engine mounts on the xmember and raise the engine for working room. I'd loosen right off the back 3 or so sump nuts on each side (may need to loosen off block to gearbox strengthening brackets if fitted for access), and take off all the nuts forward of this. Carefully drop the front of the sump, pull off the timing cover, remove the tensioner, undo the cam gear, remove the gear and screw the bolt back into the cam a few turns. Remove the cam thrustbearing and carefully slide out the cam. Lube up the lobes of the cam with camlube or moly grease. Slide in the new cam, reassemble, double checking the timing marks. When you before you put the timing cover back on, remove the studs for the sump attachment and replace with bolts. Make things easier next time, as you don't need to drop the sump anywhere near as much. Use locktite no3 non hardening aviation goop, and give the sump gasket a good coating. Tighten the sump nuts up evenly. If you do it right it will never leak. No big deal to put back together, just watch distrubutor timing. Sometimes the oil pumpdrive can throw you out a tooth when you drop in the dizzy if not aligned properly. Before you start it, pull the coil lead and crank over to build up oil pressure. Connect coil lead and start. Run at fast idle over 2000 rpm for half an hour to break in cam. Recheck valve clearances after a few days running. It's not too bad a job. If the engine is clean and you raise everything for access it makes things a lot smoother. EDIT: I just put this on the FAQ camshaft page.

Threaten to take it to main roads and get it put over the pits. Wouldn't be good for the company if they had there RWC inspection licence removed.

Maybe you need another throttle return spring?

The most important part in tuning your carbs to your motor is venturi size. From HERE

I'm liking my new work position. Apart from having to go to head office once or twice a week (300+ kay round trip, which isn't so bad as it is all country driving and my fuel is paid for), I can work my own hours. I get a lot more input into the running of the business as I'm in charge of the systems redesign. On my days at home, I can work laying in bed if I want to. :wink: My E32. I thought I loved my ke15, but this thing is off the charts in comfort, style and handling. It is like sliding into a super comfy well worn and loved leather lounge chair. It makes me laugh when I go to a servo all dagged out in a flanno with the looks I get from people when I climb into my BM. :wink: I didn't buy it for the prestige (worth like 120 grand when new), but for the drive.

A few things to pay attention to in stock aisan carbs that are easily overlooked. The air corrector drillings. These are one piece with the auxillary venturis. The air correctors are tiny and are easily blocked with a bit of dirt. Also if the screws for the auxillary venturis are loose, you will suck air leaning the mixtures excessively. Power valves. They can get sticky. The screws between the upper half and lower half of the carb. These can loosen off and give a vacuum leak. Accelerator pump diaphram. If it is worn you will get a reduced pump shot. Personally I hate the aisan carbs, but they are much better suited to a K series than an oversized 32/36. With a little work and understanding of the different carb circuits you can make decent power gains especially when matched with other mods such as sports filter, extractors/exhaust, cam, headwork. The venturis are different sized between models and can be easily substituted for more airflow if you put larger ones in. Other things you can do to improve airflow (with any carb) are polishing the internals of the venturis, removing the choke flap, and if you're really keen thinning the throttle shafts and knife edging the throttle butterflys.

All you can really do is try it and see. Only takes like 5 minutes to rip the top off the carb for a jet change. I wouldn't change all the jets at once. You'll have really no idea of what is working better or not. In order jets to change/experiment are: 1: Idle 2: Primary main 3: Power Valve 4: Secondary Main

No idea. I live in Qld. Jump on yellow pages or search google.

I'm not sure of the length of the leaves between models, but I wonder if there could be any difference there? My old ke30 used to have tramping issues with Monroe GT Gas shocks on the back. My ke15 (with about 2x the power) hasn't really had any problems running fairly sticky yoky tyres, but it has very firm Tokiko Oil shock's on the back. I did snap the center bolt of the leaves on the drivers side at one stage and noticed a bit of tramp afterwards until I replaced the leaves .

Fords "Quadra-Shock" system as used on some of their 80's mustangs looks interesting.

You'd be looking at $100-150 plus post if you have to send it interstate. Places like Tighe Cams in qld can do them for you. You will need to send them a stock cam to regrind.