Felix

Just went and did it. If you know where to put the end of the screwdriver it takes 2 seconds. Can't find my camera so can't take a pic sorry. The cable ends on the opposite side to where the hood safety latch is. You have to go in under the radiator support panel. There is a slot (for cable removal) where the knob at the cable goes into... The end of the screwdriver goes into the slot, you lever it slightly and pop goes the bonnet.

5k powered liteace. Not sure of model code. They have an inbuilt ignitor.

You'd be better of with one of the black Bosch HEI coils. The orange ones are for points dizzies and have a lower output than the black ones.

You can just go through one of the openings in the grill with a long screwdriver. Have a good look through the grill to where the end of the cable attaches to the bonnet release mechanism. You may need a torch to see more clearly depending on light.

Maybe the new temp sensor has a different resistance rating and is sending a different reading to your dash guage than the old one. If you are a mechanic, shouldn't you be able to compression test it and run a cooling system pressure test to determine whether or not it has actually got a BHG?

Years ago when I worked as a parts interpreter I compared them side by side. The ke2x looked like they should press straight in, but have a different taper. A mate tried it himself with the ke2x balljoints in one of his ke10's using the ke2x steering arms and ke2x struts. He said he ended up with even more positive camber than stock. He went back to the stock balljoints and struts with later brakes.

Put a motor and gearbox in it before worrying about the front ride height. Yes the ke1x's sit quite high in the front (tyre to guard).

How does the door line up along the lower edge? Maybe the striker part on the b pillar needs lowering.

If it has a big cam with a lot of overlap that should be expected. Read up a bit on dynamic/effective compression.

Yep, sounds like a head gasket. What colour is the oil on the dipstick. Does it look like a maccas chocolate thickshake? If water is mixed with the oil it thickens it up and makes it harder for the oilpump to push it around the motor giving you that rattling noise.

Yep, unless you remove your boost pipework to your carb in a blowthru setup.

Sorry can't help you much there. I don't have any gemini carbs to be able to help you. I did find this with a couple of minutes of googling, might be of use Search gemini forums.

What is done to the motor? ie. cam, headwork, induction, exhaust etc. I'd say you are running a fairly hot cam then yes 11:1 is up around where you'd want to be on 98 octane.

Shame_inc all you are doing by playing with the mixture screw is altering the idle mixture. The mixture screw doesn't affect how lean/rich the carb runs once you are off the idle circuit. Sounds to me like the secondary butterfly isn't opening. The gemi carbs have a vacuum secondary from memory. I'd be looking at that.

Sure, go for it. :)

Looks good, but I think it needs an extra 2 injectors. Would't you have tuning issues getting even mixture distribution to all cylinders with a firing order of 1-3-4-2 ?

Even though the dickheads dented the panels it is still a very good score. Paint it, drive it, enjoy it. Mods, well my opinion is that they need to actually improve the driving experience/dynamics of the car, or they are wasted money.

I agree with you totally Robert with fitting a warmer camshaft before a carb upgrade. NOT a hot cam but something warm up to 270 degrees duration (ie. 25/65 65/25) will wake up an otherwise totally stock motor. The above mentioned cam will give very good gains with future mods such as more compression (10:1), extractors, exhaust (no bigger than 2"), bigger carb, some headwork, dizzy regraphing and shorter diff gears.

There seems to be so many posts on here about fitting bigger carbs to K series motors. In the majority of cases a bigger carb is not needed, especially on stock motors. Here is a simple test you can do to see if you really NEED a bigger carb.... 1. Fit a vacuum gauge to your inlet manifold. 2. Floor it through the gears and take a note of the lowest vacuum readings. If you get a reading of between 0 to 1.5" of vacuum you don't need a bigger carb. If you get a reading of 1.5" of vacuum or higher, remove the aircleaner and try again... If it drops under 1.5" of vacuum, all you need is a sports aircleaner or maybe just replace stock one if it is dirty. If you get a reading of over 1.5" of vacuum (even without filter) you really could benefit from going to a bigger carb. It is as simple as that.

Yea I used to find the same in my catch can from time to time doing short trips. Seems to happen more during the colder months or when there is rain around causing cooler weather with high humidity.

Toolbags are good to have in you car. I used to have a steel toolbox in my ke15, but once I upgraded the suspension and put decent tyres on it, I had to remove it from the car. It kept wanting to flip over during hard cornering, so I went to a toolbag.

Should work fine with maybe a little finetuning of the jets. Much better choice than a 32/36 DGV. You fitting it to a 4k? Is it stock? If so you'll find the more work the motor has, the greater gains you will get from a carb swap over standard.

I wasn't really clear, but I was referring to just using the diff center from a model more freely available in the US than what the ke15's are. The ke30/35/36 6" jap diff centers will bolt straight into a ke15 diff housing with a change of the rear diff flange part of the tailshaft and new uni joint.

If you are doing a stock rebuild, what is wrong with the stock factory rods as is? :y: Talk to your machinst, or do a bit of googling on diy balancing.

kp starlets? you may need the diff flange part of the tailshaft.