Felix

The bigger the number of the main jet the richer it will be on the main circuit... Especially in the lower part of it where there is little influence from the air corrector. The air correctors trim the mixture more in the mid-upper range of their associated (primary or secondary) main circuit. The bigger the number of the air corrector jet the leaner the mixtures become in the upper end. (115 main-125 air jet) or (130 main- 160 air): 115 main-125 air jet. Will obviously be leaner in the lower part of the main circuit, but quite possibly richer in the upper end.

Go pick your car up and take it to another workshop.

I think his problem is finding plugs in his desired heat range with the long projection that the dished piston motors run. ie. normal type (flat-top piston motors) longer projection (4/5k dished piston motors)

bike shop. fork oil. available in different weights. :lol:

Muffler comparison In their tests the Reverse flows tend to be quieter than the straight through mufflers.

Seeing as you are building from scratch you should consider 4into1's with an oversized anti-reversion stepped design off the exhaust ports.... Best of both worlds.

Its' always best to check the basics first. :y: I run a 270 degree cam. It doesn't affect vacuum that much. On my old 4k just before I pulled it out, it gave 160 psi compression with a 9.8:1 CR after a good 4years of flogging.

A good easy way to check cam timing is to remove the rocker cover. When you turn over the motor to no.1 on TDC firing, the valves for no.4 should be "on the rock" (ie exhaust closing, inlet opening).

You are tapping the vacuum off the manifold itself, and not the vacuum advance line to the carb?

Quite a few years ago, but I once traded a K motor for a warm 4k. The guy that got the K motor was going to use the crank in a 5k for a Sports 1300 motor to destroke it to under 1300cc. Would be great for a top end screamer, if you were to run a close ratio gearbox behind it to keep it in its' powerband. Great for a race motor but really pretty useless on the street where you want a wide powerband.

It might fit. Just be aware that the rear cam journal on some 5ks and dished 4ks is thinner (widthwise) than on earlier 3/4ks. You could possibly run into the problem of the cam pushing hard up against the welschplug at the back of the block for the cam tunnel. A welsch plug with less depth inserted into the back of the cam tunnel is one way to allow the use of earlier cams, if you happen to run into this issue. It is easy to check and see. Throw the cam you are considering using into the block and see if you can tighten the front thrust plate, while still having end play.

ACL make exactly the same extractor gasket part no. DSF24

Well the 3k stroke is 7mm shorter. The pistons travel up 3.5mm less and down 3.5mm less from the crank centerline. :y:

If you were to put in a 3k crank and shave the block 6mm the pistons would be sticking out the top of the block at TDC. :y:

I'd be getting a stock cam reground. The one you have was most likely reground and will have already had the base circle ground down.

:y: I had a non-functional charging system on my ke15 for a few months. I used to charge the battery once a week and all was fine until I forgot to charge it. Lived up Mt Nebo at the time, and one night coming home realised I had next to no headlights once leaving the streetlights at The Gap. Had to turn off the headlights and drive by Dolphin torch which the missus held out the side window to get home. Was an interesting drive. Got home, turned off the car and thought I'd try restarting it, battery was dead flat, wouldn't even light up the charge and oil light, let alone click over the starter. I got a new alternator and battery the next day.

The black panel at the rear of the hatch above the taillights is see through dark tinted glass on those things.

Search my posts for details on my solid lifter conversion. So easy and free using parts from various k motors. :P

:P My solid lifter conversion cost $0.00.

It would have to. Look at the suspension droop, or I should say lack thereof. It'd be like a skimming stone across the top of the roads around here. I'd say it would be great on a near deadsmooth smooth racetrack though.

Not necessarily. It will cause the motor to be down on power and run rougher due to cylinder imbalance. Evan I'd be doing a wet/dry compression test to determine if it is the rings or valves/headgasket. It is common for cylinder 4 to go first if the motor has been run without a thermostat for any length of time.

0.8MM is the standard gap size for all the K series motors with points dizzys. The ones with electronic dizzies and dished pistons ran 1.1mm gaps with long reach plugs standard. If your coil isn't up to the task it could be breaking down. A spark tester is an excellent tool (worth about $25 on ebay) to keep in your toolbox, I've got one like this:

Get a new cap, rotor button, and a set of points when you buy new plugs.

Yea that one looks interesting. Would hate to drive it on the roads around here. The tyres would spend more time off the road than on it.

I like the way the one in the first post was shot peened. Cheap insurance.