Felix

I was having a bit of a think about this. What I'd try doing is back off the handbrake adjustment at the handbrake lever. Then at the rear, adjust the drums out until they lock, then back off until they just lightly drag. Once you've done that then adjust the handbrake at the lever. If the rear shoe adjusters aren't self adjusting as they should (common for them to seize), and the handbrake adjustment at the lever is wound up, the pistons in the wheel cylinders need to travel a lot further than what they should.... possibly falling out.

How much meat is on the brake shoes?

Tools... how they have that habit of disappearing on you when you need them.

Yea it is starting to get hard to find consumables for the old girls. Not sure on the ke20's, but with my ke15 I used a ke30 bottom hose. I cut and shut it using a bit of metal pipe in the middle with a couple of extra hose clamps. The upper ke30 hoses also work great with a bit of trimming.

What I usually do if a carb seems to be playing up is: Squirt some carby cleaner down it whilst giving the motor a bit of a rev. If the above doesnt' clear it, then give the motor a good hard rev and slap your hand over the top of the carb throats strangling it, pull your hand off before it stalls. Repeat a few times... This nearly always clears the carb of blockages, as it creates a massive vacuum sucking any dirt or crap straight through. NOTE. DO NOT do this if you are experiencing backfires up the carb.

Good news. Amazing how fast they grow. Our twins were in special care for a couple of weeks after they were born. Was hard having to leave them, plus the daily visits were tiring, not to mention expensive for hospital parking. Taking them home was an awesome feeling. One good thing about it was that they were already in a feeding/sleep routine when we took them home, unlike our first who took ages to train. Enjoy.

Details here.

You tell us what the carb is. Look around the carb base and you will find the model number stamped on it. Hint... I can sorta see it in the first pic of the carb, but it is a bit fuzzy to make out.

You are talking about 2 totally different things. The 24-25 is the venturi size. You are comparing it to the throttle bore size of 28-32. The carb is sized perfectly for a worked 4k or 5k. Do a search on the model number on google to find the original fitment. No idea on what adaptor you'd need to fit it onto your original manifold.

skidsharpe what did you run in the way of extractors and exhaust? Open exhaust, no mufflers?

It is a Crow 740 grind. Duration: 280/286 (in/ex) Timing in: 32/68 (seat to seat) Timing ex: 73/33 (seat to seat) lift at valve: .401/.401 (thou in/ex)

Go the diesel...

Evan G do a google search on "compound turbocharging".

If you are worried about people holding you up doing 10 kays below the speed limit on your way to work, then leave 5 to 10 minutes earlier. The speed limit is just that, the speed limit... ie. the maximum legal allowable speed. Keep in mind that cars speedos do vary. Shit, I drive 2 hours to work a couple of days a week along country roads. I often catch trucks doing 20-40 kays below the speed limit on hilly sections where there is double white lines. You just have to bide your time before overtaking. It is even worse when you end up with a line of cars. The best thing to do is select some good music and sit back and relax. Better to be late then dead on time.

My ke15 had a km/h speedo in it when I got it. I assume someone previously fitted a ke30 speedo into the original cluster. The speedo was identical to the one in the ke30 2 door sedan I had at the time.

Young dickhead drivers who can't keep their car on their own side of the road. Twice in the last few weeks while driving, I have been confronted with idiot young drivers coming the opposite direction around corners who have been on my side of the road. The first time was on Mt Nebo going to a work meeting where I just missed the other tool by a matter of inches, and today (with my family in the car) was another close call with another f@$kstain. If you want a bit of fun, keep it on your own side of the road, and think of others around you.

Just throw a decent 4k or 5k in it with a 5 speed and drive it. Work on the suspension and brakes as you go along, and do a conversion later if you still want to. Cars are meant to be driven, not worked on.

Yep but will lower the CR. No idea, the answers are in the catalogs on the PBR and Bendix websites if you care to look for yourself.

Undo the c-clip on the clutch cable at the firewall, then you should be easily able to remove the end of the clutch cable on the clutch fork. After that you have to pull the cable through the hole in the bellhousing.

:D Way, way to big for a 1.3L motor. You will lose a lot of performance. Have a read HERE, on exhaust sizing on Suzuki Swift 1.3L DOHC GTI motors. They make a lot more power than what you will ever get from a 4k. 1 7/8" is ideal on a worked 4k with cam, compression, headwork, etc.

I don't see the point on a little corolla, unless you can't drive. It's not like they are hard to park at all.

Don't be a wuss. Hang onto the end of the spark plug lead while someone else cranks the car over. :hmm:

I think he's in Canada or the US.

I'd say it would be even worse unless you could sequential fire the two injectors (for a double back-to-back squirt) to match the firing order. If you batch fired them, the first cylinder of the paired cylinders would gobble up most of the fuel charge, leaving the second paired cylinder to run lean. At least with carbs the second paired cylinder is still able to pull fuel from the carb.

No worries. :) I'm running extractors, and find that it is easier to jack up the motor slightly and remove the manifold side engine mount to get the starter motor out. A lot quicker and easier than removing the manifolds. I've never really had a problem with starter motors except for once when I had a pressure plate partially disintegrate. Bits of metal jammed between the ring gear and inside of the bell housing, effectively seizing the motor. Some rocking back and forth of the car in gear, cursing, plus some major strainage of the starter cleared the jammage enough to get it running and nurse it home. Geez it made some strange noises. The starter was never the same afterwards, she was cooked well done. :hmm: You might just get away with disassembling your current starter, cleaning it up and sanding the solenoid contacts with fine sand/emery paper. Not necessarily a long term fix, but could get you by until you source another starter. Not exactly sure on the starlet reduction starter. If it fits in and clears everything it should be fine. From what I understand the reduction starters are quite compact. Never had one myself though.