Felix

I think you'll find it mainly depends on cost and availability to what people fit For a given cam, 4-1's will push the powerband further up the rev range than 4-2-1's. I run 4-1 pacemakers, due to the fact they came up at the right price at the right time and fit the car. Makes the 270 degree (advertised) cam in the motor, perform like a larger 280-285 degree cam would in a similar motor with 4-2-1's. I'd be putting in a reground cam with your head change and extractors to get the best from it. The stock cams severely limit performance.

For some reason squishy beings with boobies just don't get all warm and juicy over them. Maybe you'll get a "ooo it's so cute and small". It's funny with my E32, I get way more looks from the women then I ever did in corollas. It's big long and black. :P

I'd drive it if someone gave me one. My guess is it would most likely drive itself and be pretty boring unless you were tripling the speed limit.

That makes me laugh. More like hand spec. The only sex you are going to get driving a ke70 with 18's ain't from women. :P Telemarketers: Had a woman ring me up yesterday with some heavy Indian accent asking me if I was happy with my bank. My reply: "It's great thanks, bye"... click.

In a ke1x where you want to keep it originalish and save a lot of stuffing around I'd agree with you. Fact is that a ke30-70 is about 20-25% heavier. If you are capable of doing a conversion yourself, money would be better spent on a 4age. (dependent if you fall under P-plater laws). By the time you build a decent NA K series, add twins, regraphed dizzy, tuning etc. You could quite easily sink 2-3 grand into one. In something like a ke70 a stock 4age would go just as hard and have more potential down the track.

It's like sneaker art on steroids. Looks alright. Would I do it? No. I guess it is better than the flat black bonnets you see on everything including Daewoo's these days.

:)

If you are after more grunt a Tighe 113 is a great choice. It is a 270 degree cam (advertised duration) with a very broad powerband and decent topend. Made best power between 3000-7500 in my old 4k with around 10:1 compression and a ported head. You can get a 104 which is basically the same cam with more lift. The beauty of the 113 though is you can shim the valve springs for more preload without running into coilbind. This will give you more revs before valve float, and save the expense of fitting aftermarket valve springs. Something I've experienced is that a cam that makes max power at say 7500 in a 4k, will make max power at around 500-1000 rpm lower in the rev range in a larger capacity 5k. Just something to keep in mind when people with 5k's give you their thoughts on cam selection. Coln; There was Zero stuffing around on my part. Pete did the hard yards working it out using bits from old K motors he had laying around. Zero cost, zero effort, dropped straight in. Been good for 50,000 kays or so. Motor owes me under $500 all up. :)

SU manifolds have a nasty 45 degree turn just before the start of the ports. A downdraft manifold may have a 90 degree turn just below the carb, but the airflow has a chance to straighten out before entering the head ports. "Flow happens mostly on the outside of a turn. This being the case, if a turn exists just prior to the port in the cylinder head, then the intake port in the head is not totally utilized. In other words the flow has not straightened out to fill and utilize the whole port in an even fashion." Quote: David Vizard. Unfortunately these things lay over at a 30 degree angle so unless you stand them up, any sort of manifold is a compromise.

With a ke55 I'd be putting the money towards an engine conversion. Sure you can get a K series to go fairly well, but you would need 20-25% more power and torque to match the performance you could achieve in a lighter ke1x. If you look into the past, Ford were putting 2L motors into Escorts which were similar size and weightwise to ke55 corollas.

Hey Rob, my head came from Peter Moll. Did you have anything to do with the springs? I know he said you supplied him the cam or something, that he ran with it at the time.

The head on my 5k has double valve springs (and K-line guides), got it off a mate who ran the head on his ke20 clubcar. I was told they are aftermarket holden items (202 blue?) but unsure of what they are exactly. Couldn't tell you what machining was done as it was 4-5 years ago now. All I can say is the valvetrain is good for 8500+ with converted hydraulic lifters. I've had the springs out when I self ported the head using guidelines from books from David Vizard and A. Graham Bell, but can't remember any obvious machining for the springs... Still runs the orig toyota Valve retainers and collets... The head and retainers could have been machined, but having played with K series motors for many years, nothing stands out from the ordinary from memory. Sorry I can't be of more help. The thing to keep in mind is if you do as much of the work yourself (ie. disassembly, cleaning, reassembly), machining is not overly expensive to get done.

Yep I've got a set that I've run on my 5k. It went hard with the SU's, would arc up a set of A539's all the way through second. I ripped them off and ran a DCD weber as it is a much sweeter allround carb setup for performance/economy if you do a lot of km's and care about fuel consumption.

I have alloy spacers on my SU setup. Mainly as the carb's are 1 3/4", and the spacers are to help blend them into the Lynx manifold. If you run a heatshield, make it a two piece setup. Give you more space to work around the carbs before you bolt in the main heatshield.

Go a 5k bottom end. You'd have SFA bottom end with a 4k running that cam. I'd be looking at around 10.5:1 CR.

Depends on how you build them. A lot of people tend to go for big cams and kill off all their low end torque. (big cams need close ratio gearsets to get the most from them) With the 5k in my ke15 if you feel lazy you can just leave it in fifth around town, pulls away nicely out of roundabouts and what would normally be a 2nd gear corners. I could drive up Mt Nebo in 5th with the family and a bootload of shopping and still get held up by slower cars. Overtaking on country roads is easily done in 5th from 80 kays. Could do 3rd gear hillstarts on my 30degree driveway when i had the 4.5 in it. :) Helps to have a 700 odd kg car to start with. 1 1/2" SU's start getting restrictive on a worked 4k. A decent sized downdraft will flow more. Remember only one cylinder at a time pretty much draws on the available induction that it can see. Running twin carbs does NOT equal twice the airflow. Look up the port from the inlet valves point of view.

Ok, a few people on a weeks holiday now. Anyone else? ROLSBY, cut out the text speak and sly shitstirring or you will be on holidays as well.

The recommended plug gap for a dished piston motor running an electronic dizzy is 1.1mm. If it misfires under heavy load at high rpm, then try reducing the plug gap.

Pretty cool. For some reason "Attack of the clones" comes to mind. Whitewalls.. check, venetion... check.. Hubcaps... umm... Yours fall off Chobis? :) The beige one stands out.

Having run both the twin aisans and downdraft webers myself, I've found a single (appropriately sized) weber to be superior. Twin aisans will outperform a 32/36 DGV in the low/midrange purely because the venturis in the DGV are to big for a 4k (designed for 1800-2000cc motor). The big primary venturi of the DGV doesn't promote highspeed air flow at low revs and sacrifices throttle response, drivability, torque, and economy. Airspeed aids atomization, which gives finer fuel particles which gives a better burn. A single downdraft 28/36 DCD weber (much much better sized than a 32/36DGV) on a manifold that has been blended into the carb adapter, will outperform twin aisans. Much better simplicity, reliability, tunability, throttle response, economy and power. The DCD's have changable venturis like DCOE's so can be optimised for pretty much any sized motor from 900-2000cc's. I sold my twin aisans. A single DCD is by far the best induction setup for a primarily street driven K series motor. Read here about some guys experiences with a DCD weber. Note that the one used on his escort is a 36/36 DCD where both throttle plates open synchronously. ie together. The 28/36 DCD has asynchronous opening. ie primary/secondary.

You could try something like this: :P

I think you will find the main reason that the majority of trucks out there are running drum brakes, purely comes down to economics. From what I've read disc brakes for trucks cost about twice as much, aren't subject to nearly anywhere near as much fade and reduce stopping distances by about 40%. The Europeans use discs in the majority of trucks these days... the rest of the world is just a bit slower to catch on. Why do you think Toyota fitted disc brakes to the sportier SL ke1x models? In fact they are the exact same sized discs as what the ke2x run. I went from ke1x drums to ke30 discs on my ke15 many years ago. I found with discs the car stopped quicker from 100 kays, than what the drums did from 80. The discs had many times the number of stops in them before fade.

Fair enough. Is the original splash shield still underneath the car? You could try running a thin bead of silicon around the dizzy cap to keep that H2O at bay.

Drums aren't too bad. The springs can be a pain at times to get back on. Get an old screwdriver and file a V in it, makes things way easier. I like on the ke1x models how the rear drums aren't self adjusting. Depending on the shoe adjustment, you can alter the brake bias to a degree. I found initially after going to a ke30 disc conversion, the rears would lock to early. Playing with the rear shoe adjustment fixed it.

Jason KE30, you shoulda just stopped it at lights and started it in first. Not hard to rev match and change gears without a clutch. Done that before to get home.