Felix

I had one of those esky lama helis... Got bored with it quick. Don't fly it outside unless it is dead calm. Blade strike. The 450 sized electric helis I have are scary by comparison. Flying lawnmowers. Need lots of work to setup, plus crashes are expensive. 3D planes are way less work and more fun. My favourite are these things: http://vimeo.com/7297920 http://www.vimeo.com/7297661 Not as good as those guys but slowly getting there.

Found it. 13781-13100 might work. Have a look on this thread.

No, the dished piston motors have a shorter head. Half the combustion chamber is in the piston crown, so the head has a much smaller combustion chamber in it... the rocker gear sits lower/closer to the block deck compared to a flattop head.

You are right Philbey, they are spring loaded to take up the slack before the lifters see oil pressure. If I remember correctly I think I've seen 2 different lengths of 5k hydro pushrods mentioned on here somewhere. Must be some 5k's floating around with flat tops and hydros from the factory.

Doesn't look good at all. Think it is time for a full rethink of your valvetrain/lifter setup.

Do a google search on lifter preload. Problem is you've pretty much got a flat top piston motor with a flat top head. Unfortunately (maybe for you), 95% of 5k's in ozland are dished piston motors, which have a lower head as half the combustion chamber is usually in the pistons. A reground cam with it's smaller basecircle makes things even more difficult. Until you pump some oil pressure into that motor and turn it over a bit to prime the lifters, you are not really going to be able to measure the preload. Guess you could make up something to spin the oilpump over with a drill, and turn it over ith a srarter motor and the plugs out??? Crosses fingers for you.

The RC airboat is pretty cool. I love rc stuff. I have many rc cars, mainly vintage stuff, a few helis (scary shit) and a dozen planes or so (3D being my favourite). No boats though.

Hopefully it is due to the lifters not being primed. If your pushrods are from a dished piston motor and you are running a flattop head, you might be shit out of luck.

You gotta keep in mind those 3k-b carbs are from a 83HP motor, and will cause a restriction in the top end. I guess you could play around with different aisan carb bits. The 3k-b carbs have 19mm primary venturis (good for low end), can't remember the secondary venturi size off hand. Other aisan carbs have larger venturis you could possibly swap around. At the end of the day the aisans are a lot more limited in tuning compared to other carbs. Airbleeds aren't changeable for one, which can make a massive difference in trimming the fuel curve. Higher airspeed through a carb means finer fuel particle atomisation which gives a better cleaner burn. SU's are great carbs being constant velocity carbs, only opening the slides when the motor actually needs the airflow. Way better street carbs than webers/dellortos. 1 1/2" twins are ideal for a high reving 4k but are on the small side for a decent 5k. 32/36 dgvs are to big for any k series motor. ADM's are massive off a 4.1L falcon. The DHSA2 would have been very well suited if you had of drilled the primary throttle plate or opened the secondary slightly.A big cam has SFA vacuum so needs the throttle platws cocked open more at idle. Those not in the know (probably 95% of the population) open up the primary throttle plate bypassing the idle/progression circuit. :)

It is too bloody hot. It is just after 7pm and the water in the fish tank in the loungeroom is still 32 degrees. Good news is I have a set of Yoky C.Drives lined up to be fitted tomorrow. The bad is my wallet is going to be hurt for just under a grand. 225/55/16's aren't exactly a common sized tyre. Time to go back outside where it is cooler for a bit methinks.

If it was an SL model as stated, shouldn't it have a k-b or 3k-b twincarb motor?

SLO-030, no sorry have got two decent ones, but none I could part with. Watch ebay UK if you don't mind bringing in parts from overseas. New ones come up from time to time. UK is a good source for tuning parts like venturis. That crow 606 is pretty much identicle to the Tighe 113. Good cam, and will make power to much higher than rated with a modded motor made to breath. The Wade 609 is more a top end cam suited to a 5k. 291 degs duration. It is easy to work out duration from timing figures for a cam: opening degrees + closing degrees + 180 = advertised duration do it for both inlet and exhaust. :)

altezzaclub, I reckon those 1 1/4" SU's will go great with a cam making max power around 6 grand. Smaller carbs have higher airspeed, hence more torque lower in the rev range. It all comes down to matching components to get the best from your intended application. Keep the cam duration below 260 degs and you will have a low-mid torque monster for a 4k. You are on the right track. Lower duration cams increase cylinder pressures at lower revs, and obviously run out of puff sooner. Higher duration cams are the opposite, plus really need closer matched gearing to keep them on song. At one stage with my 5k ke15, the old DCD died so I fitted a stock 3k carb (19mm primary venturi) with some minor rejetting. Coupled with the 4.5 diff I had in the car at the time the motor made ridiculous torque in the low end. Could do 3rd gear hillstarts with ease on my 30 degree driveway. 2nd gear corners were 3rd gear corners with mass throttle response and squirt away from them. Really killed off the power over 4.5 grand though compared to a DCD, but still just had the edge over a new VU commodore at the time. 28/36 DCD's are a great carb, with their replaceable venturis (like with sidies) they can be tuned for whatever power range (or capacity motor) you want. I ran 25/25mm chokes on a 4k and now 26/27mm chokes with a 5k. The carbs aren't exactly easy to come by, but you will not get a better allround totally tunable, set and forget carb for a street motor. My old 4k with a dcd, 270 deg cam and ported head, was quicker than my mates twin 1 3/4" SU'd 5k with a 280 degree cam (unported head) in a ke20 club car. Twin 1 3/4" SU's outflow twin 40mm DCOEs if you didn't know. I don't build for max power (leave that to the uninformed kids obsessed with kw figures), but more for trying to achieve the best allround performance/economy compromise with the widest possible powerband. To me throttle response and a motor that just goes in any gear from any revs is the way to go. Oh yea, I've met Ivan Tighe, he was a real nice hands on old guy. Did work experience at Tighes many years (12-13) ago. I kinda doubt he has much to do with the business these days as Dean his son was taking over the reigns back then.

Snailtrail spec. :)

Unfitted restored ke15 dashpad, sprinter taillights, SL gearknob, early k-b twincarb filter box and heater unit.... $50 the lot, and from a wreckers. Was my lucky day. :(

f@$king BOOM! Nuking a tyre on my way to work this morning. Decisions.... C.Drives or S.Drives :(

I'm running a 6" ke35 diff center in the diff housing of my ke15 with the original axles. Bolted straight in. Just had to change the rear yoke on the tailshaft that bolts to the pinion flange as the PCD is different. I'm not totally sure about the starlet stuff as we never had them over here, but it wouldn't surprise me if it just slotted straight in with possibly a change of the tailshaft end bit and a new uni.

Philby you can get yoky y352's in 205/60R13 and 215/50R13. They have white lettering on one side. Used to run the 205/60's on my old EH wagon with mega dished steelies and hubcaps, but ran the lettering to the inside. They were a pretty good tyre. I don't know if you'd get them under the front though. The rear would most likely need some stiffening and/or guard pumping.

Stick the current motor in one of your ke10's and you will improve your power to weight ratio a heap. :) The Tighe 104 gives pretty much an identical power curve as a 113 but with an extra hp or two. Not what Keith is after. From what I gather he wants maximum area under the curve up to 6 grand. It is easy to change valve springs/stem seals with a bit of rope and an overhead spring compressor without having to remove the head. :(

Yea that was the one I saw on ebay. Seems to be pretty basic spec-wise for a supposed "SL model".

Haven't looked at it but assume it was the overpriced one that didn't sell on ebay. Nope. :(

Nah, needs some smaller tyres on the front and some rake.

As for carb cfm ratings of twins. With the twin aisans, any one cylinder will only be able to see just one carb of the pair with the split twin manifold. It is hard to explain, plus difficult to type on the little netbook I've got in front of me atm. Just think from the inlet valves point of view looking up the manifold to the carb throttle plates and what it can see. Read through this link. Keep in mind the DCD weber the guy is running has both throttle butterflies opening at once, whereas the smaller one I run has a primary/secondary so has a lot more bottom end. Sorry altezzaclub for going offtopic in your thread. Let me know and I'll split it.

Look at the legend down the bottom. ke55pig5k is your theoretical 5k. straight lines ke55pig4k is your theoretical 4k. diamonds on the lines. 5know is my 5k. squares 4kstd is a stock 4k. lol. triangles I took the screen grab off my main computer which has a big monitor and 1920x1200 resolution so the symbols are a bit small. Maybe zoom in a bit to work out which line is which to start with then you'll get it. The graphs get busy with a few runs on there together, but are meaningless by themselves with nothing to compare them to.

altezzaclub the Camshaft Engineering cam was in a 5k bottom end I bought. It was actually a hydraulic grind but seemed to run fine with solids. Anyway that is besides the point you could get any decent cam grinder to grind to whatever specs you wanted in a solid grind. And yes I ran the standard dished 4k valve springs, which are I think the same as 5k ones, no coil bind. The specs: CE778: 22/54 62/14 (ground 4 degrees advanced) 256 degs (adv) duration, 423 thou lift at valve. KE55PIG I made some runs with 10.5:1 CR and a bigport head. I think the cfm ratings I used are optimistic for the twin aisans as I found a DCD weber (used its CFM ratings) to go harder in the top end. I threw in a run from my current 5k with a ported medium port (5k) head and a 270 degs tighe 113 and 9.6:1 CR for comparison. Also chucked in a totally (everything) stock 4k as the benchmark. Remember take 10-15% to get an idea of what flywheel HP is achievable with a perfect tune. Program assumes perfect A/F ratios and timing curves.