Felix

She's all good. :) The old grease trap stunk a bit more than usual from all the escaping air from around the lid. :(

It ain't a coupe. It is a 2 door sedan. KE25's are coupes. :(

You can only fit 6 inch wide rims with the right offset under them before you need to start pumping/flaring the guards.

Plumbing: The kitchen sink developed a blockage so the missus put one of those environmentally sullage friendly treatments down it. Did SFA, so I fixed it. :( I got an old plug, cut a hole in it and pumped 100 psi from my air compressor down it. Sink cleared. :)

So is an SST1 - special service tool number 1. ie. a big f@$ken hammer.

Looks good. Nice colour, and I like the rims which suit the period of what an aussie ke20 would have worn when they were done up BITD over here. :( Nice to see someone not trying to do an overdone granny spec or jap spec car. Yea you could always lower the front a bit. Don't go to far for the "look" as you will ruin the ride and handling. Keep the lower front arms level or just above.

WGMG: 1. My shed, it gets so friggin hot, it is like a sauna as it is subjected to the sun the whole day. The afternoon sun shines straight in the front opening doors until it goes down. So pretty much if you want to do some work in it you have to wait until the evening. 2. Finally got some motivation to get my ke15 up and running again... In the evening last night I changed over an axle from a spare diff as the wheel bearings were rooted on one side (yes I could get new wheel bearings but couldn't be stuffed driving 3/4 of an hour each way to a decent parts joint that can get the parts I want, then having to get them pressed off/on). This evening I planned on changing over the rear wheel cylinders and putting on new shoes. Couldn't find my flare nut spanners which I haven't needed or seen in years. After 45 minutes of searching I found them, only to realise that they are IMPERIAL. :( I thought they were metric, but in hindsight now remember that I bought them when I had my old EH Holden. :)

I can do that, but you need to give me a better description of the planned mods. 5k? If so any overbore? What head (3/4ksmallport, 5k, 3kbigport)? Porting/headwork? 4-2-1 or 4-1 extractors? etc. The software is sort of basic in some ways, but there is a massive amount of possible combinations.

No worries. Thought you might be interested in a few screen grabs I just made from Dyno2000. Please note, take 10-15% from the HP numbers for more believable real world results, the software is used more for comparative rather than outright numbers. The motor is a 4k modelled with 9.0:1 cr, stock sized small ports, and small tube extractors with mufflers (stock 4k has stock manifolds and mufflers), airflow is as for a downdraft weber (except stock 4k) as it is fiddly modelling SU's. Took out the 113 and threw in a stock 4k for comparison.

I'm pretty sure he is building for max torque and to have peak HP around 6 grand. A 280+ degs (advertised) duration cam will be making max HP at around 8 grand or just over in a 4k. Plus it'll need 10.5:1 CR which if you read his post you'd see he is trying to get the maximum from the stock CR. I'd be looking at up to 260 degs (advertised) duration max, with the maximum lift you can get. I've dealt with Tighes before, but was localish so I could just go straight in. Maybe try ringing them? I've used the one cam in a couple of street driven motors for 7-8 years with no problems. That is a Tighe 113, when I ran it on my old dished 4k, it made best power between 3000-7500 in my setup with a ported head 9.9:1 CR, DCD weber and 4-1 extractors. When I put that 4k in the ke16 for the missus, I fitted a Camshaft Engineering CE778 cam in it. It has the same specs as a 3k-b cam (256 degs adv duration) with a heap more lift (423 thou). Man did that cam pick up the low to mid, but peaked at 6500. ie. pushed the powerband down 1000 rpm across the scale.

In QLD, from what I remember from the licensing handbook when I first got my licence (around 20 yrs ago) is that P platers must have their licence on them at all times. Someone holding an open licence if pulled over and not having it on them must present it to their local police station within 24 hours. It may have changed since then.

Took me about 15 minutes to pull the axle out of the diff not in the car. First pull to get the axle out of my ke15 using the wheel/tyre and the wheel nuts on a few threads as a slide hammer.

Trying to pull axles out of a diff that isn't bolted into a car. Unfortunately you can't use a wheel/tyre as a slide hammer.

Yea that slammed wagon looks cool as. Makes me want to get one for the missus. :2thumbs:

Still have a gap when you fit the belt pulley?

Man you should try an E32 or E34 BMW, your Volvo's will pale in comparison when you hit that first corner. It is amazing how you can buy a car that was $100-200K+ when new for under 10 grand these days. f@$k buying a commodore or falcon, I'd rather cruise in style in my E32 sports limo. Euro cars are cool, way in front of anything japanese. When it comes to cars, the japanese are the ultimate in quality imitators, but the Euros are the true innovators. I used to know a guy that had one of those volvos with worked 289 windsor in it. Was an awesome car, sounded mental with the exhaust dumped before the diff. Was a very different unexpected combo that really opened peoples eyes. 7shades, cool pickup, you should stuff a 2jz or something under the bonnet later on. :2thumbs:

No worries with the diff. I really don't need to be spending cash on the 15 atm anyway as I'm saving for a house, plus looking at a set of Bilsteins, springs and a set of Yoky S.Drives in the near future for my E32. I wasn't talking about the 12" tyres but those budget Admiral tyres (they are a Kumho's bottom of the range line) in the pic a few pages back on Robs old rims. Sorry man, but ever since Rob converted me to performance tyres it makes me cringe whenever I see someone on here Improving the performance of their car, yet cheaping out on the single most important component of the car.... ie. the tyres, which are the only thing keeping your car stuck to the road. All that suspension work and LSD is just hype when you cripple the car with $70 tyres. Surely you must place a higher value on your life and performance/safety of your car???

Looks interesting. Got 2 huh? What would you want for the second, providing it takes a 6" ring gear? You are going to be needing an LSD with those cheap tyres you have on the car, especially in the wet. I'm surprised you didn't put some decent rubber on it, tyres are the most important performance item you can fit to a car. With decent tyres you really wouldn't even need an LSD with a hot NA k series motor. Please tell me you have a front swaybar for it...

That bugselecta is cool. Someone needs to make a rollaselecta. I've always thought the raked look with bigs and littles suits dubs so well.

Cool. You have to pick and choose with the plastic fans. I've got no idea on the original source of the ones I've run but the offset is correct. Interestingly both cars had different PCD's and nose diameters on the waterpumps. Can't run them with the double row crank pulleys though. Just enough room...

Cam have you actually driven your ke15 yet? Hopefully the front mounted fan will work out for you. The missus' ke16 used to have a thermo fan on the front of it and would get hot in the middle of summer. I took it off and fitted a plastic fan and the thing ran cooler. No idea on what the fan was from, it just fit and is the same as I have run on my ke15 with no clearance or overheating issues... even on a hard run up Mt Glorious on a 40 degree day. The biggest cooling issue I've had is chewing lower radiator hoses.. :wink:

Me 3. I was looking at a Type 3 fastback myself a couple of weeks ago. The thing I like about the VW crowd is that they don't seem to be constrained to 2 looks like the corolla community does (ie, granny and jap spec).

Fact is it is the young dumb stupid f@$ks who think they can (but can't) drive that make up the the highest percentage (for age group) of road deaths.

I realise that. The point is, look what can happen if a flywheel lets go. We are talking about a 4k flywheel which the factory would have forseen maybe 7000 rpm having 2.5kg's taken out of it. Not hard for a 4k with a warm cam to pull over 8 grand. Even if you don't mean it, it isn't outside of the realms of possibility to f@$k up a gear change from 4th to 3rd and hit 1st by mistake. :wink: Cast iron flywheels have their strength in the outer surface. Milling them down can make them porous and more prone to cracking.

Much cooler car (even as it is) then the ke20, or in fact any ke20. Satin black it, polished cookie cutters, lower, an Iron Cross and a FUKENGRUVEN sticker on the back window.