Felix

Looks like bolts will just have to do. Either that or set up a new head which doesn't have the air injection crap on it.

Vacuum advance gives you better fuel economy on the cruise. Under high load conditions there is no vacuum. You could always tap each manifold runner and make a "vacuum manifold". Manifold vacuum is different to ported vacuum (source from the carb near the throttle plate). With manifold vacuum you get full vacuum advance at idle, which can really help smooth out the idle of a big cam.

TRD ke70 wasn't really talking about back pressure. What he was getting at is that if the exhaust port is smaller than the extractor tube, you have a lip that helps prevent exhaust reversion waves travelling back into the cylinder. The reversion waves hinder the ingress of the next air/fuel shot on cam overlap. Exhaust reversion is more common with bigger cams. Ever seen carbs spit fuel or have fuel standoff at lower revs? Exhaust reversion is the main culprit. My understanding of back pressure in an NA motor is: You should ideally match exhaust flow to induction flow. Induction flow should be matched to the motors requirements at peak power RPM.

They run an air pump, and force air into the exhaust ports. Not exactly sure how it works, but supposedly improves emissions. I've seen pics of that type of setup on american ke10's so it has been around a while. Think it might be the (proper) california emissions spec. Couldn't tell you what the number is on the head I have. It is with a stash of parts at my parents joint.

I've got a 3k head like that with air injection into the exhaust ports.

I run a bit of permatex No3 around the pushrod side of the gasket. It is common to see k series weep a bit of oil around the headgasket in that area. Like Taz I use one of those razor scraper things to remove residual head gasket. Compressed air, and a good wipe over with thinners or shellite for the final clean before reassembly. When the head is back on, I like to remove the thermostat and flush the block with water and compressed air to get rid of any left over crap that could have fallen into the water galleries... stops the shit from potentially clogging your radiator.

Castrol Brake Fluids Castrol Response Dot 4 Data Sheet

Yellow pages Ring around local to you and ask for yourself.

The metal cover thing that is attached to the rear of the extension housing can easily be tapped off. Gives you much easier access to remove the seal with just a screwdriver.

Very nice sprinter. Love the way they need so little to look so cool. How do you go with rear tyre scrubbage?

Look around the carb base. It should be stamped with the model number.

Not quite. Su's have an accelerator pump effect. Read up on what the dashpot oil does. This seems to be a common misconception. With twin 1.5" SU's having a divided manifold, where each carb can only serve two cylinders, each cylinder can only see one carb throttle plate at a time. Area of one 37mm butterfly = 1075 mm^2 With a 32/36 DGV each cylinder can see both throttle plates of the carb.... Area of DGV's butterflies = 804+1018=1822 mm^2 Considering the 4k is stock with only extractors, you'd probably get better results by retaining the stock carb. Fit a sports airfilter and rejet it.

Maybe he just thought it was obviously illegal and was just doing his job... too wide, too low. I don't agree with his comment though.

I've done a few heads now. Costs about $100 to get a 3 angle valve job and the head skimmed if you supply a clean disassembled head with only the valves sitting in it. Porting can be done easily yourself with the aid of a cheap dremel and a few hours work. I don't worry so much about enlarging the ports. Moreso a good tidy up. Remove the casting marks in the ports, narrow down the valve guide bosses, smooth the rough casting marks just above the valve seats, and blend the shortside radius into the seats. Invest in some books by A. Graham Bell and David Vizard. Great stuff for hands on engine building and tuning.

Scary thing is, it is much the same in a LOT of workplaces. As for getting hassled by cops... Keep your external mods (and exhaust note) subtle and don't drive like a dick and you shouldn't have too many hassles. Seems to me that a lot of young guys tend to bring trouble onto themselves trying to make their car stand out from the crowd. Yes you'll get admiring looks from the fellas with your dumped suspension, fat rims and loud exhaust... Problem is those sorts of mods have the same effect as flies to shit when the cops are around.

Did you reset the valve clearances?

5 speeds have overdrive 5th. The ratios aren't any closer. Get a lower diff ratio. ie. if you already have say a 4.11, fit a 4.3.

Taz, they also say on that page to increase the valve size. No point opening up the ports to far without installing larger valves.

Mechanics are just dodgy these days. A mate did his apprenticeship at a so called reputable dealership. I saw myself as part of a scheduled service to replace and bleed the brake fluid.. all they would do is suck the old brake fluid out of the m/cyl resevoir and refill it. They didn't bleed the brakes. ;) Someone came in with a vibration in the rear end. The car was test driven and determined that the rear wheel bearing was at fault. They replaced it and it didn't improve. On further inspection they found one of the rear tyres had a bubble in it. They swapped it for the spare and it was all good. Charged the owner for a wheel bearing replacement and a new tyre. The first and only time I've ever taken a car to a mechanics for servicing in 20 years of driving was a joke: I took a subaru liberty that our sister-in-law lent us to a workshop for a basic service and requested they check the timing belt as the service history of the car was unknown. They changed the filters and fluids and told me the timing belt was fine, and would be fine till the next service when they would replace it. I checked the car over after the service and found the high pressure fuel line to the fuel filter was cracked and perished and that the timing belt was rooted and cracked on every tooth. I replaced the fuel lines and timing belt myself.

I would imagine that it would be cheaper to just get a second hand door and fit yourself, compared to getting a panel beater to fix your existing one. A white one shouldn't be to hard to come by. Get a paintshop to respray the door if needed.

Yea, just do the oil changes yourself. It's not hard... Warm the motor, drop the oil, change the filter, fill it to the full level, start the car and run it for 5 minutes or so. Stop it and let it sit for a while, top it up to the full level. Then you know it was filled properly and can properly monitor any oil usage yourself between changes. They'll let any monkey do car servicing in workshops these days.

If your motor is in good nick, the oil level shouldn't change at all between oil changes. If the oil level goes down it has to either be from usage, either worn rings, hardened/worn valvestem seals (from age) or leaks. At 123,000 kays the motor shouldn't even be halfway through it's lifespan.

For sure. The newer ones are nowhere near as cool looking as the ones from the 80's. Sure they'd be nice to drive, and go hard (love a new M5 myself), but visually they don't look much different to your average asian car.

Thing is though, with a 5k, if you go any bigger than about a 280-285 degree cam (advertised duration) you are just making noise. You will kill off the bottom end and make SFA improvement in the top end compared to a milder cam. A motor with a milder cam will shit all over it at anything below 7 grand. Really for anything over a 285 degree cam, you should fit oversized valves and get the head professionally ported by someone with the aid of a flow bench. The stock valve size is the biggest limitation to power, even with porting. Cams over 285 degrees are race cams. You need a close ratio gearset to keep the motor in it's powerband between changes. But anyway, I guess it comes down to what you want... Pose or performance.

pull your choke out. :P