Felix

The Fuel mixture meter I linked to is a LOT better than the LED bar type, the number display has a lot more resolution than the cheaper more common bargraph type with 10 LEDs. For a few hours and $100 setup in the car including an O2 sensor (free) and welding at a muffler shop, it is a cheap tuning/diagnostic tool. Way better than stumbling in the dark. When you consider that the majority of guys on here consider tuning a carb to be just fiddling with the idle mixture screw, one of these things is a good investment. Coupled with a vacuum gauge, stopwatch, some carb jets and a measured approach to tuning the various circuits in a carb... anyone is capable of making a noticeable improvement to the fuel economy, drivability and outright power of their car. I've got this old school portable (yea right) combustion analyser and the readings between it and my O2/FMD meter were pretty much spot on across the board. :P

No idea. Unless you have a workshop manual, you'd need to open up your carb and see what size is in there to start with.

No worries Evan, hope you get it sorted.

You'd be surprised Irokin. Carbs are an analogue device and hardly as precise as EFI. The Jaycar kit basically is like an expanded scale multimeter, it stretches out the readings between lean and rich. The numbers it gives may not be exact, but they are relative (carbs are not exact lol). You can immediately see the direction of jetting changes. As I said previously it makes setting up carbs a breeze. I wouldn't use one for tuning a highly strung turbo car, but for carbs they are great.

Nah it will be fine. You can always fine tune it a bit by experimenting with main jets. My ke16 ran a stock 4k for a while (with extractors/exhaust). It had a ke30 3k carb on it, and I improved economy and responsiveness by dropping the primary main jet one size and upping the secondary main jet one size. NOTE in the above when talking a jump in jet size I mean increments of 005 like with weber jets. So with say a 120 primary main jet, would have dropped one size to a 115. I can't remember the exact jets I used, but you get the idea.

Yup. It is called the Idle mixture screw for a reason. :P For some reason a lot of people seem to think it controls the mixture throughout the entire rev range... which it doesn't. Only idle and progression. Download and read this. It is a scan of the carb chapter from A. Graham Bells' book "Tuning New Generation Engines for Power and Economy".

Ahh ok. Wasn't sure. The one I put in my ke15 was a 4 wire type.

Get yourself one of These Get a M18x1.5mm nut and grind it to suit the outer curve of your exhaust. Drill exhaust, weld on nut, and screw in your O2 sensor. Make sure the O2 sensor is a heated type. Great for tuning carbs. You can easily dial in a weber in a few hours if you have a good selection of jets available. Oh yea the mixture screw is only good for setting the mixture at idle/progression. It doesn't have any affect on the mixtures once you get onto the main circuit.

If you actually read the first post, he is already doing that. An easy way of removing the plastic door card clips without damaging the door card is what he was asking about. Yea check out your local parts places or panel beating suppliers. You can also get dedicated door trim tools.

:bash: 6.9km/L That is pathetic. Time for a good tune and to go through everything, rebuilding the carb. There must be black sooty shit all over the back of your car if you are going through that much juice. I'm surprised the plugs haven't fouled.

Some of the window winder removal tools have a trim clip remover bit on the other end.

If fuel isn't spraying a mist out of the auxiliary venturi, check that they are screwed down properly. Those screws can loosen off on the aisan carbs.

All the shitty crap with low quality control that is sold these days. Example: I bought a 12v car vacuum cleaner, looked cool like a mini workshop vac. It was rooted before I even got it home. Cheaply made, musta been dropped before I bought it, made a hell of a noise when I first started it up. Took it back, paid extra to buy a Hoover 12v vac (supposedly a trusted name), 5 minutes in and it spat the fan/impeller bit off the motor shaft. Took it back and got a refund..... A household vacuum cleaner will do for now.

I don't know. Since nearly all the Gemini's (as well as datsuns and mazdas) have rusted out, the old corollas (particularly the ke3/5/7x) seem to have fallen in their place. I guess it depends on your age, but 15-20 years ago rwd corollas were just considered shopping trolleys and laughable as performance cars. If you want to be different, buy a car that is different. Not something that everyone else is doing up to try to be different. As for the original post of owned or not:

No it is not. • The edges at the front of a scoop/projection shall be rounded with a minimum of 10mm radius. • All other edges and corners shall have a radius of not less than 5mm and be designed to reduce the risk of bodily injury to any person to a minimum. • The scoop/projection must not have reflective surfaces. • Air cleaners or carburettors must not protrude beyond the original bonnet profile unless the bonnet scoop/projection is manufactured from equivalent gauge mild steel, compared with that of the original bonnet. • Air cleaners and/or carburettors must be covered by the bonnet scoop. source: QLD Transport Light Vehicles Modifications Handbook

Problem is if you look at the PBR catalog every single part that relates to the ke1x series is NLA (no longer available), except for front discs.

Pretty sure I've seen the front wheel cylinders on the US ebay motors site. You could always look into getting your existing cylinders resleeved and rebuilt at a brake specialist. The front wheel bearings are exactly the same as those on a ke20/25 with disc brakes. Just the inner seal is different. I'd check out places like CBC bearings as they supply a lot of the auto shops with wheel bearing kits. If you can, I'd be looking at the very least upgrading to ke20/25 front discs. The drums suck, even when in good condition and adjusted properly. The upgrade is well worth it for your own safety and the self preservation of your car. EDIT: um yea front shoes. I'm not sure if they are the same as the rears. You could always get them relined.

Umm, there are two types. ;) The earlier ones are smaller (chrome trim part) and more flush looking. The later ones are a bit larger and the lense sticks out a lot further. You should post a pic of the ones you have so you end up with the same type from side to side. You can buy new repros on ebay, but I think they are the later larger type. From what I've heard the quality isn't the same as originals. NOTE, RT40 shovelnose coronas shared the same guard indicators. Really should sit down one day and write up an article of all the minor differences/variations. It is easy to determine early and late types, but in the middle it gets a bit blurred at times. You have the Toyota model progression changes, but also I think having imported (York Motors cars), plus cars with local content (AMI) confuses things a bit. Another thing too, is that the ke1x models are up to 40+ years old and quite a lot of them have had accidents over the years. Seems awful common for them to have had hits in the front passenger side. For example one of my ke10's (early dash 67 model) has a complete late front end (guards, stone tray, bumper, side indicators, front indicators, grill, headlight surrounds etc.) on it from an accident at some stage in its' life.

Go to your local parts store and order an extractor gasket. ACL part no. DSF24 Permaseal part no. EM30

Possibly the top grill in your pic. The middle one is late ke1x (ke10-b/ke11), usually seen on cars with the airvents on the c-pillars. The bottom is early ke10 How do your headlight surrounds match up to the grills? There are a few variations. ;)

That isn't a ke15 grill. The ke15 grills look like this:

Yea I wish I could get the same economy with my E32 7er. It is a 6cyl auto and will get anywhere between 450-600 kays from about $75 of fuel. It really varies alot depending on the type of driving I do. Around town stop start driving really kills the economy having to move 1600 kgs of car off the line. The car is built for cruising windy roads. Best I've got with it is 10km/Liter on a long country cruise. A V12 model would have been nice but f@$k the fuel and repair costs.

Sounds about right. If you did a 5 speed manual conversion, you might improve the economy. As previously stated a 2 speed auto isn't exactly the greatest for economy. What sort of revs does it pull on the highway a cruise? I get about the same fuel economy with the combo in my sig. It has no problems matching normal everyday traffic just taking it easy.

I look at it this way: If you are acting like a dick and not following the road rules, or driving a car which is obviously illegal, you deserve to get reamed.